amp/sub setup for lukebox and wiring quesitons-

[charlescho]

hello all :)

for starters I have a 12" lukebox and CD43 business CD player

I wanted to know what kind of amp/sub setup you guys recommend with this setup, I am looking for a setup that will yield nice crisp bass more than just being real heavy on bass....my budget is about 800 for both the amp and sub...

also, I am tearing out my carpet right now and would like to know what WIRES(size and count) i need to run from the dash compartment area to the trunk area....this way it'll all be ready for the amp/sub to be hooked up after the carpet install.

thank you so much in advance(and luke for supplying me with such a nice box)

[charlescho]

bump for being an audio noob :)

[BMW_TUNER]

Are you running components off the amp too or just a sub?

IF you want an amp to do it all the Infinity 5 channel I just got off ebay is perfect.
Here is one right now
http://cgi.ebay.com/Infinity-Kappa-F...item3a5eef4954

That plus Infinty Ref. Sub will get you amazing sound.

[livetheride]

screw the reference sub. get an ssa dcon

['86 325e]

I personally would say f*ck it and not worry about running your speakers through an amp. Get a Kicker CompVR and then get an amp that has around 400 watts RMS (so atleast 800 watts is what it would probably advertise)

Also, as far as the wiring.. You would have a remote wire, coming from your head unit. This tells them amp when to turn on/off. You will also need a power wire from your battery, so if you have a 4 cyl then you need to also run a big power wire from your battery back, but if you have the 6 cyl then youll be good to go since the battery is in the trunk..

pick up a sup/amp wiring kit, (walmart has one, any car sound system place will have one, check ebay out if you wanna wait for shipping) then if you do not know what you are doing have either a friend that knows help, or the sound system store help you.

But short version of it, you need to have the afore mentioned remote wire running from your head unit, to the amp (will be plainly marked as rem)

Then you need your power wire (probably red and between 6 to 10 guarge wiring) and go from the positve terminal on you battery into an inline fuse then into your power terminal on the amp.

Thirdly you will need your set of speaker wires running from the the amp to the sub box terminals. (if you have not already done so, you will need to connect the sub's positive/negative terminals to the inside pos/neg terminals of the box, then screw the sub into the box)

Then lastly, find a good ground inside your trunk (i usually use one of the screws under the trunk latch) and run the ground wire (usually black and just slightly smaller then the power wire) to the negitive/ground terminal on your amp and then boom you should be good to go!!

[jasonsnoddy]

who the fuck are you

[StereoInstaller1]

screw the reference sub. get an ssa dcon

I would not disagree with that. The SSA is way more money, but certainly not expensive. I spent over an hour on the phone with the guy who designs these. He is one of the few younger guys who "get it", that giant BOOM is not all that everyone wants, that sooner or later the boom-tards grow up and actually want to hear music, not just bass.

Honestly, SSA DCON is a top-notch alternative to other stuff out there. They will work amazingly well in all of my designs. Spec-wise, this is really similar to the old school (early 80's, back when SQ was king) woofer design, but with the new voice coil cooling techniques, so far better power handling.

They have a new woofer coming soon ($400ish price range) that I *might* be doing an "UltraBox" for. I hope he listened and adds a few features to his design. They might have the best car audio woofer on the planet if they tweak the design just a bit...these guys might beat out the IDMax!

I personally would say f*ck it and not worry about running your speakers through an amp. Get a Kicker CompVR and then get an amp that has around 400 watts RMS (so atleast 800 watts is what it would probably advertise)

Do NOT do this. Your deck makes about 12 watts RMS X4, or 50ish watts total. Run about 100 watts to bass (in one of my boxes) and you will have some level of balance, but that is just retarded and pointless.

The E30 needs some power on mids and highs, and it needs roughly 3X the power to the fronts than it has in the rear. Use and amp to power the fronts at least.

If you wanna start small, do a 4 channel amp. Use half for bass (get a SVC 4 ohm woofer) and the other half for the front speakers. Later, add a bigger 2 channel and use that for bass, then move the 4 channel to front and rear. If you want more after than, add a bigger amp for bass, use the 2 channel for rear and the 4 channel to run the fronts with separate power for the tweeters in a true tri-amp configuration.

Then lastly, find a good ground inside your trunk (i usually use one of the screws under the trunk latch) and run the ground wire (usually black and just slightly smaller then the power wire) to the negitive/ground terminal on your amp and then boom you should be good to go!!

Do NOT "find" a ground: ALWAYS make your own ground. Scrape the metal until it is shiny (paint does NOT conduct electricity!) and run a nice screw, or better still a nut and bolt. Use the same size as the power wire.

A nice solid ground is the most important connection in your install: do not fuck around.

The goal of your power wire is how many strands it has, and the copper content. Most wire today is copper coated aluminum. I should not have to say anything about that, the level of bullshit is obvious.

and of course, the shit sold at wallymart is junk, but you knew that, right?

Luke

['86 325e]

yeah, my bad i must have read over the CD43 business CD player. I assumed he had an aftermarket headunit.

but that what happens when you assume.. you(meaning me) look like an ass..

[harv]

That stupid, cheep ass, 39 buck Coustic sub rocks in one of Luke's boxes being pushed around with that 200 dolla PPI 5ch amp. No one that has heard my car can believe that I payed 49 bucks a pair for my PPI components and so little on the amp and sub.

It's the box that makes the magic happen.

John

[Brian D]

Honestly, SSA DCON is a top-notch alternative to other stuff out there. They will work amazingly well in all of my designs.

Luke, will the DCON 10" fit in the boxes you're making now? I ask because of the 6" depth. I'd like to run one of these if it's at all possible, even if I have to pay a bit more to have the box modified.

[Schnitzer318is]

I had good results with the RE Audio 12's... and they can be had stupid cheap.

Always wanted to try out SSA but from what I heard, Ascendant Audio, RE Audio, and SSA are all fairly similar drivers. Is that correct Luke? Ascendant being their retail line available only through dealers and a semi "designer" sub, RE Audio being available through the internet and more of a mass market sub, and SSA being a combination of the two.

Sorry for the OT.

[jquirit]

I've always wondered this, but what is the max mounting depth for a 12" sub in a LukeBox?

[StereoInstaller1]

I had good results with the RE Audio 12's... and they can be had stupid cheap.

Always wanted to try out SSA but from what I heard, Ascendant Audio, RE Audio, and SSA are all fairly similar drivers. Is that correct Luke? Ascendant being their retail line available only through dealers and a semi "designer" sub, RE Audio being available through the internet and more of a mass market sub, and SSA being a combination of the two.

Sorry for the OT.

No clue, but the guy I spoke with at SSA was amazingly knowledgeable, like stunningly amazing, and he was basically second fiddle!

Other than they all use the same basic castings for the frame (sourced in China, I believe, but machined/built here in SSAs case) I don't think there is much connection, but really I have NFC.

I do have quite a bit of respect for all 3 of those guys, but SSAs designs align nicely with what I like. RE seems more "high SPL" and I just can't do that to my poor old head any more.

I've always wondered this, but what is the max mounting depth for a 12" sub in a LukeBox?

That is a tough question to answer.

When the mounting face of a box is angled (as mine are) it make the max depth a variable thing, because magnet shape and diameter play a role in mounting depth, sometimes even where/how the spokes of the frame are shaped or placed.

[318Joe]

I had good results with the RE Audio 12's... and they can be had stupid cheap.

OT, FYI: the $47 10" RE Audio at Sonicelectronix will not fit the lukebox without modifying the flange. ~ 3/16" too big. Just enough to make "persuading" it into position out of the question.

[Brian D]

OT, FYI: the $47 10" RE Audio at Sonicelectrnix will not fit the lukebox without modifying the flange. ~ 3/16" too big. Just enough to make "persuading" it into position out of the question.

Could you measure the outside diameter of the RE? The more I look, the more I think that the DCON will fit. Is the box cutout 11"?