amp/sub setup for lukebox and wiring quesitons-

[StereoInstaller1]

screw the reference sub. get an ssa dcon

I would not disagree with that. The SSA is way more money, but certainly not expensive. I spent over an hour on the phone with the guy who designs these. He is one of the few younger guys who "get it", that giant BOOM is not all that everyone wants, that sooner or later the boom-tards grow up and actually want to hear music, not just bass.

Honestly, SSA DCON is a top-notch alternative to other stuff out there. They will work amazingly well in all of my designs. Spec-wise, this is really similar to the old school (early 80's, back when SQ was king) woofer design, but with the new voice coil cooling techniques, so far better power handling.

They have a new woofer coming soon ($400ish price range) that I *might* be doing an "UltraBox" for. I hope he listened and adds a few features to his design. They might have the best car audio woofer on the planet if they tweak the design just a bit...these guys might beat out the IDMax!

I personally would say f*ck it and not worry about running your speakers through an amp. Get a Kicker CompVR and then get an amp that has around 400 watts RMS (so atleast 800 watts is what it would probably advertise)

Do NOT do this. Your deck makes about 12 watts RMS X4, or 50ish watts total. Run about 100 watts to bass (in one of my boxes) and you will have some level of balance, but that is just retarded and pointless.

The E30 needs some power on mids and highs, and it needs roughly 3X the power to the fronts than it has in the rear. Use and amp to power the fronts at least.

If you wanna start small, do a 4 channel amp. Use half for bass (get a SVC 4 ohm woofer) and the other half for the front speakers. Later, add a bigger 2 channel and use that for bass, then move the 4 channel to front and rear. If you want more after than, add a bigger amp for bass, use the 2 channel for rear and the 4 channel to run the fronts with separate power for the tweeters in a true tri-amp configuration.

Then lastly, find a good ground inside your trunk (i usually use one of the screws under the trunk latch) and run the ground wire (usually black and just slightly smaller then the power wire) to the negitive/ground terminal on your amp and then boom you should be good to go!!

Do NOT "find" a ground: ALWAYS make your own ground. Scrape the metal until it is shiny (paint does NOT conduct electricity!) and run a nice screw, or better still a nut and bolt. Use the same size as the power wire.

A nice solid ground is the most important connection in your install: do not fuck around.

The goal of your power wire is how many strands it has, and the copper content. Most wire today is copper coated aluminum. I should not have to say anything about that, the level of bullshit is obvious.

and of course, the shit sold at wallymart is junk, but you knew that, right?

Luke

[jasonsnoddy]

who the fuck are you

['86 325e]

I personally would say f*ck it and not worry about running your speakers through an amp. Get a Kicker CompVR and then get an amp that has around 400 watts RMS (so atleast 800 watts is what it would probably advertise)

Also, as far as the wiring.. You would have a remote wire, coming from your head unit. This tells them amp when to turn on/off. You will also need a power wire from your battery, so if you have a 4 cyl then you need to also run a big power wire from your battery back, but if you have the 6 cyl then youll be good to go since the battery is in the trunk..

pick up a sup/amp wiring kit, (walmart has one, any car sound system place will have one, check ebay out if you wanna wait for shipping) then if you do not know what you are doing have either a friend that knows help, or the sound system store help you.

But short version of it, you need to have the afore mentioned remote wire running from your head unit, to the amp (will be plainly marked as rem)

Then you need your power wire (probably red and between 6 to 10 guarge wiring) and go from the positve terminal on you battery into an inline fuse then into your power terminal on the amp.

Thirdly you will need your set of speaker wires running from the the amp to the sub box terminals. (if you have not already done so, you will need to connect the sub's positive/negative terminals to the inside pos/neg terminals of the box, then screw the sub into the box)

Then lastly, find a good ground inside your trunk (i usually use one of the screws under the trunk latch) and run the ground wire (usually black and just slightly smaller then the power wire) to the negitive/ground terminal on your amp and then boom you should be good to go!!

[livetheride]

screw the reference sub. get an ssa dcon

[BMW_TUNER]

Are you running components off the amp too or just a sub?

IF you want an amp to do it all the Infinity 5 channel I just got off ebay is perfect.
Here is one right now
http://cgi.ebay.com/Infinity-Kappa-F...item3a5eef4954

That plus Infinty Ref. Sub will get you amazing sound.

[charlescho]

bump for being an audio noob :)

[charlescho]

hello all :)

for starters I have a 12" lukebox and CD43 business CD player

I wanted to know what kind of amp/sub setup you guys recommend with this setup, I am looking for a setup that will yield nice crisp bass more than just being real heavy on bass....my budget is about 800 for both the amp and sub...

also, I am tearing out my carpet right now and would like to know what WIRES(size and count) i need to run from the dash compartment area to the trunk area....this way it'll all be ready for the amp/sub to be hooked up after the carpet install.

thank you so much in advance(and luke for supplying me with such a nice box)