Originally posted by Spyke
Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass
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This is a sticky topic.
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Good to hear you got it up and running!
LukeLeave a comment:
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In my case then I'll let them be. Next is wiring the head unit in. I'll update again once the pioneer unit is bumping.Leave a comment:
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I use them to power the fans and LEDs in the amp racks...Leave a comment:
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You were right again. Unraveled it and I could see the twisted pairs and make the proper connections. I think I'm good in the trunk except 3 wires. The 12V, 12V switch, and Main Ground. Do I need these? Just let them be?Leave a comment:
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Unwrap furthur than that? I'll have to dig deeper and find the twisted pairs. Are you saying there is another connector besides that 4 to 1 butt connection? Once I find the twisted pairs I should be good.Leave a comment:
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That bunch is them! Unwrap the harness, cut out the connector, and you will see they are all twisted pairs. The "brown side" is grounds. All the other wires are the speaker leads from your amp, connect them as on page 1 of this monster post!Leave a comment:
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I found the 4 ground wires at the trunk amp where it goes 4 to 1 after pulling back on the tape. Blue/Brown is right speakers and Yellow/Brown is Front but I'm not sure how to tell which is front or rear. There are 4 wires 2 Blue/Brown and 2 Yellow/Brown that go to 1 Brown/Black wire at the amp. Probably could check with multimeter but probe leads won't be long enough to check connections at trunk and head unit.Leave a comment:
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I found the 4 ground wires at the trunk amp where it goes 4 to 1 after pulling back on the tape. Blue/Brown is right speakers and Yellow/Brown is Front but I'm not sure how to tell which is front or rear. There are 4 wires 2 Blue/Brown and 2 Yellow/Brown that go to 1 Brown/Black wire at the amp. Probably could check with multimeter but probe leads won't be long enough to check connections at trunk and head unit.Leave a comment:
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Oh, and your fuse issue is exactly why I tell people to use a test light (NOT a DMM or DVM) to test fuses. It is very simple to know if that fuse is good and you get to know if the circuit is live, all from a $5 test light.
Good to hear you got it up and running!
LukeLeave a comment:
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Great thread! This really helped me and my son install his system.
Two questions. Everything is working but the power ant and power from the Red/Green in the dash. We are using a different power source for now. I am getting power for the ant from the Alpine unit. We had an OEM radio that was working off the OEM wire and the ant worked.
1986 325es, 10/86 build date, Premium sound, rears on BMW wire, fronts on new wire, Alpine unit.
Here is the odd part. The red/green seem to be the dimmer. It has no power on it until the lights are turn on and then it has 12v. The grey/red has 12v on all the time. Is this right?Leave a comment:
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Yea I have the head unit it, I didnt notice any difference in sound from the old one. I'm pretty much audio retarded but I guess thats because the factory amp is what is powering the speakers and not the deck?Leave a comment:
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