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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by CB-M3 View Post
    Finally got the head unit in and working. Sounds good. Premium system is good enough for me. One thing is since the new head unit doesnt have those 2 screws what holds it in? It starts to slide out sometimes. Do I need to mount the sleeve somehow?
    Slide the sleeve in and bend out whatever tabs hold it nice and tight, then the new deck clicks in the sleeve...was there no instruction manual at all?

    Good to hear you got it up and running!

    Luke

    Leave a comment:


  • CB-M3
    replied
    Finally got the head unit in and working. Sounds good. Premium system is good enough for me. One thing is since the new head unit doesnt have those 2 screws what holds it in? It starts to slide out sometimes. Do I need to mount the sleeve somehow?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • CB-M3
    replied
    In my case then I'll let them be. Next is wiring the head unit in. I'll update again once the pioneer unit is bumping.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by CB-M3 View Post
    You were right again. Unraveled it and I could see the twisted pairs and make the proper connections. I think I'm good in the trunk except 3 wires. The 12V, 12V switch, and Main Ground. Do I need these? Just let them be?
    I use them to power the fans and LEDs in the amp racks...

    Leave a comment:


  • CB-M3
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
    we are talking like 3" more, the pairs will be obvious
    You were right again. Unraveled it and I could see the twisted pairs and make the proper connections. I think I'm good in the trunk except 3 wires. The 12V, 12V switch, and Main Ground. Do I need these? Just let them be?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by CB-M3 View Post
    Unwrap furthur than that? I'll have to dig deeper and find the twisted pairs. Are you saying there is another connector besides that 4 to 1 butt connection? Once I find the twisted pairs I should be good.
    we are talking like 3" more, the pairs will be obvious

    Leave a comment:


  • CB-M3
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
    That bunch is them! Unwrap the harness, cut out the connector, and you will see they are all twisted pairs. The "brown side" is grounds. All the other wires are the speaker leads from your amp, connect them as on page 1 of this monster post!
    Unwrap furthur than that? I'll have to dig deeper and find the twisted pairs. Are you saying there is another connector besides that 4 to 1 butt connection? Once I find the twisted pairs I should be good.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by CB-M3 View Post
    I have all the positives identified. It's the ground wires that I am not clear on.
    That bunch is them! Unwrap the harness, cut out the connector, and you will see they are all twisted pairs. The "brown side" is grounds. All the other wires are the speaker leads from your amp, connect them as on page 1 of this monster post!

    Leave a comment:


  • CB-M3
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
    Yellow/red and blue/red are the front positives, yellow/black and blue/black are the rear positives
    I have all the positives identified. It's the ground wires that I am not clear on.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by CB-M3 View Post
    I found the 4 ground wires at the trunk amp where it goes 4 to 1 after pulling back on the tape. Blue/Brown is right speakers and Yellow/Brown is Front but I'm not sure how to tell which is front or rear. There are 4 wires 2 Blue/Brown and 2 Yellow/Brown that go to 1 Brown/Black wire at the amp. Probably could check with multimeter but probe leads won't be long enough to check connections at trunk and head unit.
    Yellow/red and blue/red are the front positives, yellow/black and blue/black are the rear positives

    Leave a comment:


  • CB-M3
    replied
    I found the 4 ground wires at the trunk amp where it goes 4 to 1 after pulling back on the tape. Blue/Brown is right speakers and Yellow/Brown is Front but I'm not sure how to tell which is front or rear. There are 4 wires 2 Blue/Brown and 2 Yellow/Brown that go to 1 Brown/Black wire at the amp. Probably could check with multimeter but probe leads won't be long enough to check connections at trunk and head unit.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by Ken o View Post
    Fix the antenna issue, blown fuse but very hard to tell it was blown.

    Here is the odd part. The red/green seem to be the dimmer. It has no power on it until the lights are turn on and then it has 12v. The grey/red has 12v on all the time. Is this right?
    Yeah, they change year to year. There is a mention in this thread somewhere, I think. Too much data, I need to consolidate this mess sometime!

    Oh, and your fuse issue is exactly why I tell people to use a test light (NOT a DMM or DVM) to test fuses. It is very simple to know if that fuse is good and you get to know if the circuit is live, all from a $5 test light.

    Good to hear you got it up and running!

    Originally posted by JonnyOg View Post
    Yea I have the head unit it, I didnt notice any difference in sound from the old one. I'm pretty much audio retarded but I guess thats because the factory amp is what is powering the speakers and not the deck?
    Guys, if you do the bypass, you will notice better clarity and a tiny bit more loud. Worth it IMO, I am sure you are gonna wanna do something else. It is so frustrating to me that I can't have everyone hear the $500 stereo...what you have now kinda sucks, right? Kinda thin, kinda boring....the $500 stereo sounds so amazing with the same speakers!

    Luke

    Leave a comment:


  • Ken o
    replied
    Originally posted by Ken o View Post
    Great thread! This really helped me and my son install his system.

    Two questions. Everything is working but the power ant and power from the Red/Green in the dash. We are using a different power source for now. I am getting power for the ant from the Alpine unit. We had an OEM radio that was working off the OEM wire and the ant worked.

    1986 325es, 10/86 build date, Premium sound, rears on BMW wire, fronts on new wire, Alpine unit.
    Fix the antenna issue, blown fuse but very hard to tell it was blown.

    Here is the odd part. The red/green seem to be the dimmer. It has no power on it until the lights are turn on and then it has 12v. The grey/red has 12v on all the time. Is this right?

    Leave a comment:


  • JonnyOg
    replied
    Originally posted by CB-M3 View Post
    ^ You are in the same boat as me. I have 318is with premium. Did you install your pioneer unit yet?

    Yea I have the head unit it, I didnt notice any difference in sound from the old one. I'm pretty much audio retarded but I guess thats because the factory amp is what is powering the speakers and not the deck?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ken o
    replied
    Great thread! This really helped me and my son install his system.

    Two questions. Everything is working but the power ant and power from the Red/Green in the dash. We are using a different power source for now. I am getting power for the ant from the Alpine unit. We had an OEM radio that was working off the OEM wire and the ant worked.

    1986 325es, 10/86 build date, Premium sound, rears on BMW wire, fronts on new wire, Alpine unit.

    Leave a comment:

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