Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass

[JGE30]

Blue/Blue Brown Right Channel
Yellow/Yellow Brown Left Channel

[German Audio Specialties]

That is very wrong. It will work for a bit, but will likely run very hot.

I cannot see the colors very well on that pic, please type out what connects to what so we can get you connected properly...it will sound much better and last longer.

Luke

[JGE30]

85 325e it has sound all 4 fader still works

[greentalks43]

Now there is a first post!

So sorry I did not see this before.

I hope you "re-purposed" the stock input wires to the rear speakers and just ran new wires to the front. I know it has been covered somewhere, but searching my posts is frustrating for me, and its was my damn thread!

So, welcome to R3V, we will get your stereo rockin'. Are you thinking of doing the "$500 stereo"? I know I will be starting way higher production runs shortly, so if you do plan on getting one of our subwoofer boxes, watch for a sale thread soon.

Luke

Here is the post you're looking for http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...0&postcount=91 I used it to wire up my sisters 87 325e last weekend.

_William

[German Audio Specialties]

First I'd like to say thanks for writing this up. I was afraid to tackle this myself but after some careful reading and attempting to figure out exactly what system I have, I've now got a plan of attack which I'll be attempting tonight.

I'm just looking for confirmation that I'm on the right track here.

The car is a 1987 325e, Premium Sound system w/ Fader in the dash. As my colors don't match up to yours and my fader has 6 wires instead of 8, I assume that I get to do new wiring (yay!). I will be removing the stock amp as it doesn't function.

From this thread, I guess my best bet would be to re-run the wiring to the front speakers, and re-use the four positive wires from the Fader -> Amp as rear speaker wiring, ensuring that I match up the correct colors from one side of the amp to the other.

The other option I see is simply run 4 pairs (8 wires) from the deck all the way to the back, and hook them up to the corresponding speaker wires where they output from the amp...

Just want to make sure I've got this all figured out correctly before I really dive into it. I've consulted the ETM to figure out power/gnd/ant for the deck.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Now there is a first post!

So sorry I did not see this before.

I hope you "re-purposed" the stock input wires to the rear speakers and just ran new wires to the front. I know it has been covered somewhere, but searching my posts is frustrating for me, and its was my damn thread!

So, welcome to R3V, we will get your stereo rockin'. Are you thinking of doing the "$500 stereo"? I know I will be starting way higher production runs shortly, so if you do plan on getting one of our subwoofer boxes, watch for a sale thread soon.

Luke

[ethorpe]

First I'd like to say thanks for writing this up. I was afraid to tackle this myself but after some careful reading and attempting to figure out exactly what system I have, I've now got a plan of attack which I'll be attempting tonight.

I'm just looking for confirmation that I'm on the right track here.

The car is a 1987 325e, Premium Sound system w/ Fader in the dash. As my colors don't match up to yours and my fader has 6 wires instead of 8, I assume that I get to do new wiring (yay!). I will be removing the stock amp as it doesn't function.

From this thread, I guess my best bet would be to re-run the wiring to the front speakers, and re-use the four positive wires from the Fader -> Amp as rear speaker wiring, ensuring that I match up the correct colors from one side of the amp to the other.

The other option I see is simply run 4 pairs (8 wires) from the deck all the way to the back, and hook them up to the corresponding speaker wires where they output from the amp...

Just want to make sure I've got this all figured out correctly before I really dive into it. I've consulted the ETM to figure out power/gnd/ant for the deck.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

[uglyveedub]

:up:2 big thumbs up to Luke for this write up, just finished, its pretty freakin easy, just dont be afraid to pull back the factory wrap and look for the speaker pairs. When you do this, color is not an issue!!!
Amazing how much those premium speakers sound even with just head unit power on them. :up:

Sounding so good I need to save up for a LukeBox to top it off.

Thanks again Luke!!!

[mikeb23ft]

Finally got this figured out, sounding great now. Thanks for all of the help everybody.

[StereoInstaller1]

Honestly, if you are not using a subwoofer, the stock premium is the best choice, period.

[mikeb23ft]

Mike, if you pulled that left speaker cover (AKA "Kick Panel") you should see that 4 pin connector just above the top of that panel

Either I'm crazy or it's not there...think I'm gonna rewire and install new speakers.

Edit---going to try again tomorrow, don't wanna run new wire and speakers if I don't have to.

[StereoInstaller1]

Removed aftermarket alarm system, and the panel under the wheel and the speaker cover. Not seeing said 4 port plug, the wiring bundle from the fader just goes on its merry way over the rocker panel by the seat and presumably back to the trunk. Help?!?

Mike, if you pulled that left speaker cover (AKA "Kick Panel") you should see that 4 pin connector just above the top of that panel

[mikeb23ft]

Removed aftermarket alarm system, and the panel under the wheel and the speaker cover. Not seeing said 4 port plug, the wiring bundle from the fader just goes on its merry way over the rocker panel by the seat and presumably back to the trunk. Help?!?

[mikeb23ft]

When you say 'kick panel', are you referring to the panel under the steering wheel or the panel that actually holds the drivers side front speaker? I discovered an aftermarket alarm system under the steering wheel, going to try to remove it.

[mikeb23ft]

Luke, you are awesome. Thank you for being who you are.

[dogsbark26]

Luke, you are awesome. Thank you for being who you are.