Weight Reduction Be Damned - Sound Deadening Install

[Victell]

:(

Like any build thread I do, I didnt take enough pictures to warrant continuing the thread.

My interior and everythign is back together. I could take pictures of the door panels as I'll need to take them off again and trim some material around the door handle so I can get the outer trim on. I'll also show some of the trunk as the trunk carpet comes out easily.

I'll take pics on Saturday before my engine pull.

Did you end up taking any pictures of the doors? How did the door trim panel installs go? Im thinking of putting mass load vinyl between the inner panel and the door trim and want to know if there is enough room for the MLV and the foam decoupler. Did your trim clips still hold the door panel on even with the added 1/8"+ material between there?

[drumad]

I feel you, OP. I have never once regretted adding 40lbs+ of deadening. There was no difference to the handling since the stuff is basically all below the center of mass. You need to go heavier with it though, if you REALLY want to enjoy the difference. Line the whole interior of the doors & those spaces behind the rear passenger arm rests. Double-up there, and in the floor pan if you can. The doors & other stuff on the sides will make the most difference. Ask me how I know!

http://bmw.e30tuner.com/my318is_pic_damplifier.php

I did it in parts over 2 weeks. I got first-hand experience seeing which parts helped the most.

I originally made my decision through http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/ to use Raamat but he changed up his theory and ideas and ended up with what you see on the website. I'm a sucker for advertising I guess but what he says did convince me to shy away from using traditional sound dampening products.

why are you only doing patches?

well, there's also a sheet of closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl on top afterwards; I just didn't take pictures :(.

Just sent an e-mail to Don about an hour before coming across this thread. What was your total price for everything you ordered. Mainly I'm concerned about the shipping cost of the MLV

I'm afraid to tell you only bc it was up there. If shipping for me was high (he's in maryland, I'm one state south), then I can't imagine the costs to the west coast.

i would much rather remove the glass on drop the headliner then do a carpet >.< quit being a pansy

>.<

I will when I redo the headliner.:hitler:

[Dominic49]

i would much rather remove the glass on drop the headliner then do a carpet >.< quit being a pansy

[zxert]

Just sent an e-mail to Don about an hour before coming across this thread. What was your total price for everything you ordered. Mainly I'm concerned about the shipping cost of the MLV

[EN318isPDX]

If you are doing one of my boxes do not waste your time or money doing anything in the trunk. Whatever you do will not be noticed, since 100% of the boxes output goes into the car.

If you are gonna do a normal car stereo shop box, have fun. You will never ever get all of the rattles out.

Yep I just noticed this today, my old sub rattled everything in my trunk, Luke box has 0 rattles all the sound stays inside the cab. Amazing product bro

[fiftytakedowns]

why are you only doing patches?

[bmwman91]

I feel you, OP. I have never once regretted adding 40lbs+ of deadening. There was no difference to the handling since the stuff is basically all below the center of mass. You need to go heavier with it though, if you REALLY want to enjoy the difference. Line the whole interior of the doors & those spaces behind the rear passenger arm rests. Double-up there, and in the floor pan if you can. The doors & other stuff on the sides will make the most difference. Ask me how I know!

http://bmw.e30tuner.com/my318is_pic_damplifier.php

I did it in parts over 2 weeks. I got first-hand experience seeing which parts helped the most.

[drumad]

:(

Like any build thread I do, I didnt take enough pictures to warrant continuing the thread.

My interior and everythign is back together. I could take pictures of the door panels as I'll need to take them off again and trim some material around the door handle so I can get the outer trim on. I'll also show some of the trunk as the trunk carpet comes out easily.

I'll take pics on Saturday before my engine pull.

[airkhin]

interested to see more! any updates?

[drumad]

Made some progress tonight. Spent most of my time getting my 240 back up and running.

CLD'd the floor, next stage would be the MLV and CCF install.

Passy Side Front


Passy Side Rear


Driver Side Front


Driver Side Rear


Also got the rear deck done.

[StereoInstaller1]

Yeah, the headliner is like 10000X harder to do

[drumad]

I opted not to do the headliner bc well, removing windshields to me for the headliner is seemingly alot of work. Unless someone can convince me that it isnt. Hah.

Anyways, I need to POR-15 about 2 small spots of rust on the floor, CLD it, then I'll be starting with the vinyl. More pictures tonight.

[StereoInstaller1]

I am so glad the "experts" on resonance control have finally caught on.

I have been saying for years that covering the whole panel is retarded.

Unfortunately, my approach has basically zero profit. No one wants to do what I suggest, ever. It costs WAY less money and is WAY more work, so none of the shops use the technology that makes sense.

Basically, the idiots who sell this shit only care about the money, thus the "more is better" approach. Trust me, every training that has ever happened (in all of car audio)is all about the benjamins!

If you tap with a metal object (I generally use my utility knife) you can easily hear the ringing, and a little chunk of "stuff" fixes it. That is the goal of this job, reducing resonances. Basically, if you hit the pause button most cars "ring" for a split second, that is what you are trying to control.

None of the product used in this install will do much at all for road noise unfortunately. In fact, as far as overall noise level, you will get more out of a perfect alignment of the body panels and putting duct tape over the rain gutters.

If you want to make a difference in road noise, do 2 thing: drop your headliner, remove your sunroof cartridge and re-glue every seam or brace in your roof. Use "Windshield Adhesive" Urethane (be careful, messiest stuff ever made) to thoroughly glue every inch, then after 24 hours of drying, use a few strips of butyl based sound deadner. Now you can put the roof back together!

Next, use "The Insulator" on the floor, under the ducting, under everything. Get as high on the firewall as possible. If it were me doing it, I would pull the heaterbox.

In shitty cars (I did a '91 Paseo like this, HOLY CRAP!), that has made a 10 to 12db reduction in broad spectrum noise, but an E30 being quite well insulated will only drop 3 to 5 db.

[drumad]

I'd answer your question but I havent completed my install yet :p. Unless you mean from an install standpoint?

the website has a sound clip of a before and after, here, i'll be nice

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

[lolcantturn]

How well will those CLD tiles work? They're pretty cheap so I wouldn't mind picking up a few..

?