System Suggestions

[Wh33lhop]

Alright, I took delivery of an awesome 10" Luke box a few days ago and need to figure out what to put in it. Right now I've got some old Pioneer HU hooked up to what I presume to be stock premium speakers.

I'm going mostly for SQ--I like crisp and clear with a nice soundstage. I like loud too, but I don't need 140dB.

I'm a bit of a JBL fan, so for the amp I was thinking a GTO5355 5 channel.
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 55W x 4 + 300W x 1
RMS Power @ 2 Ohms: 75W x 4 + 360W x 1
THD 0.04% (rated power at 4 ohms)
Signal-to-Noise (dBA) 105dBA
Built-in electronic crossover
Built-in variable bass boost

For the sub I'm hoping for something in the sub-$150 range although I could go a little higher if it were really worth it. Again, crisp, clear bass is a priority.
10w3v3 (consumer whores rejoice)
JBL P1022 (6 3/4" mounting depth is pushing it though)
Image Dynamics ID10D2
Kappa 100.9
Any other suggestions? Will the JBL do these subs justice?

I'd use a CD43 and probably start out with the stock components amped with the 5355. Then I'd like to do something with the front components a little further down the line.

Any comments, I am open to suggestions, bit new to the car audio game--this will be my first install.

[quickervicar]

Honestly, with Luke's box anything will sound good. Really good. Search Sonic, Crutchfield, etc. for some blowouts & you'll probably be fine. I'm running an old JL Audio dual-vc with an old JL Audio 250/1 and it is just fine. I'm sure a newer amp & sub would be better, but I rarely run mine up at the limit.

[Erik j]

Get the IDq 10, JBL amp, and some nice components and you will be set.

[StereoInstaller1]

The IDq seems to like a bit smaller box than the 1.5 I build at. The JBL is pretty likely to fit and will absolutely blow your mind. See if a local store has one. Make sure you get a DVC woof, that amp needs to see a 2 ohm load (dual 4 ohm coils in paralell) and 360 watts on bass will get plenty loud!

Set your high pass both front and rear to about 120Hz to start off with, see if you can lower it a bit later. Set your low pass about 80Hz on the sub. Expect to have the rears almost off compared to the front (3 to 1 ratio is normal) and go get busy!

Luke

[Wh33lhop]

Yeah I like that JBL, the problem is it's a dual 2-ohm VC, so I've got to run them in series and can only extract 300 watts from that amp. On the upside, it's at 96dB/Wm so it'll still play louder than any of the others even with 20% less power delivered to it.

Thanks for the insight. I'll probably try and order the sub/amp soon. Gotta figure out how to run the wiring and all that good stuff (guess I've got to drill a hole in the box and seal it up for the sub wiring). Luke I'll keep those crossover frequencies in mind when I set it up.

[Wh33lhop]

So the JBL comes in 2 forms: dual 2 ohm voice coil and 96dB sensitivity, or dual 4 ohm voice coil and 92dB.

So either I run a 4 ohm load for 300watts at 96dB per watt-meter, or a 2 ohm load for 360watts at 92dB per watt-meter. From a theoretical standpoint it seems like the extra 4dB would be more beneficial than the extra 60watts. Is there more to the picture or is it really that simple?

[Wh33lhop]

Alright, I just ordered a GTO5355 and a P1024. Turns out the specs are wrong and the 5355 will only play 225watts into a 4 ohm load, and I've heard that it's worse to underpower a sub than overpower it, so I went with the less sensitive 4 ohm DVC jbl even though it won't play as loud at 360 watts as the 2ohm DVC model will at 225 watts. I figure either way I'll be pleased.