Ellipsoid Headlight question?

[mr.vang]

i just got these from the junk yard for $60. it has two wires from Low(yellow/white, brown) and two wires from High(white/purple, brown). passenger is yellow/blue, brown on low and white/blue, brown on high.on my seal headlight, there are three wire from each headlight.. so far i google and there is no help.. anyone?

[Sagaris]

Sealed beams have dual filament lows and single filament highs, thus 3 wires for the lows (low, high, ground) and 2 for the highs (high, ground)
Ellipsoids have single filament lows and single filament highs.

You can either splice the yellow+white(low+high) wires together and run those to the wire on the headlight pigtail then run brown to brown. It should allow the low beams to stay on when the highs are clicked on however there may be a brief current interruption which might not be good if you decide to run HID's.


Or doing what I did:

You can figure out which wire gets power for the low beams (lets say its the white one), and only wire the white wire and brown wire to the headlight pigtail, leaving the 3rd (yellow) wire out. Cut the yellow wire, insulate it well and modify the headlight relay to allow low+high to turn on simultaneously.

To modify the relay: remove the K3 high beam relay and run a line of solder between pin 30 and pin 87a, stick it back in and you are good to go!

[ChaseN]

You can either splice the yellow+white(low+high) wires together and run those to the wire on the headlight pigtail then run brown to brown. It should allow the low beams to stay on when the highs are clicked on however there may be a brief current interruption which might not be good if you decide to run HID's.

If you do this the high beams will be on all the time. The wire that runs to to turn on the outer light's high beam filament runs straight from the inner light's connector...so whenever the low beams are on, power will run backwards from intended through that circuit (via the high beam wire's newly shared connection with the low beam wire), and voila, the inner lights will be supplied with power.

Do the relay bypass if you want the lows to stay on with the high's.

[mkoneod]

If you do this the high beams will be on all the time. The wire that runs to to turn on the outer light's high beam filament runs straight from the inner light's connector...so whenever the low beams are on, power will run backwards from intended through that circuit (via the high beam wire's newly shared connection with the low beam wire), and voila, the inner lights will be supplied with power.

Do the relay bypass if you want the lows to stay on with the high's.

My boy is smart...

[mr.vang]

thanks... if i fuck up i'll just burn some fuses...

[Sagaris]

I have had zero issues with the way I have my ellipsoids wired up. I am running 35W HID's and have ran the fog lights (35W HID's as well) and high beams simultaneously for a few minutes as somewhat of a stress test with no problems. You shouldn't have to worry about fuses

[mr.vang]

I have had zero issues with the way I have my ellipsoids wired up. I am running 35W HID's and have ran the fog lights (35W HID's as well) and high beams simultaneously for a few minutes as somewhat of a stress test with no problems. You shouldn't have to worry about fuses

do i have to do some slicing on the fog light?

[mr.vang]

any body know which wire power the low beam?

[Sagaris]

Get a voltmeter. Its the only way to know for sure which wires you need to splice. You dont need to do anything to the fog lights either

[mr.vang]

Get a voltmeter. Its the only way to know for sure which wires you need to splice. You dont need to do anything to the fog lights either

so what do you do exactly with the voltmeter? noob :)

[Sagaris]

You can determine which wire is the ground on the car wiring harness (although im certain they were all brown) with a continuity tester or test light by connecting one test lead to the suspected ground wire and the other to a metal piece on the chassis (the head of a screw for example). Then for the low beam, connect one test lead to the known ground wire, and the other to one of the suspected low beam wires. Turn the headlights on, if the volt meter reads 12V-13V then you have found your low beam wire, if the volt meter is still bouncing around 0 V then the low beam wire is the other one.

[mr.vang]

You can determine which wire is the ground on the car wiring harness (although im certain they were all brown) with a continuity tester or test light by connecting one test lead to the suspected ground wire and the other to a metal piece on the chassis (the head of a screw for example). Then for the low beam, connect one test lead to the known ground wire, and the other to one of the suspected low beam wires. Turn the headlights on, if the volt meter reads 12V-13V then you have found your low beam wire, if the volt meter is still bouncing around 0 V then the low beam wire is the other one.

k thanks...:D

[mr.vang]

ok i got it all hook up. i just match up the colors but for the high, i cap the white off. i have a question? when the high beam is on, the fog and low is off right?

[Sagaris]

Correct, if you modify the relay as stated in my first post, I believe they will stay on with the high beam, pretty sure. If they dont, then I must have been huffing paint when i tried it out.

[mr.vang]

Correct, if you modify the relay as stated in my first post, I believe they will stay on with the high beam, pretty sure. If they dont, then I must have been huffing paint when i tried it out.

is it ok not to modify the relay? i never use my high beam anyways.