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Window Switch Wiring / E36 Window Switches Troubleshooting

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    Window Switch Wiring / E36 Window Switches Troubleshooting

    Hello R3v,

    I have a problem that's been going on for quite some time now (since I bought it). My rear driver's side window has problems working consistently. It used to be I could fix it just by wiggling the wires that feed between the beam and the rear door. Now that that easy, and temporary fix isn't working anymore I've had to start troubleshooting the real problem.

    I'm beginning to wonder if the previous owner's E36 window switch mod for this window is completely loose or something since not even wiggling seems to fix the problem now. At the center console (by the stick shift) the switch does nothing. At the door, it will only work when you press the down button.

    The window motor works fine and so does the regulator, we removed it and connected it directly to the car's battery and it worked fine in both directions (reverse polarity motor). We also ruled out both the window switches at the rear doors and the center console by switching them with the other ones we knew worked.

    I'm considering removing as much as I can of the conduit type wrapping to see if the wires are stripped somewhere and causing power to jump to other terminals where there shouldn't be any. If any wiring genius can give me any new information it would be greatly appreciated as I'm a noob when it comes to anything electrical.

    Hopefully the quick diagram I drew is legible, we removed the door panel so we could work the switch while being able to use the voltmeter on the little latch in the back of the white part that it connects to, the squares at the tip are the "top" of the connector if you are looking directly at it if you're car door was see through. If you are pulling it down a bit (as anyone would) the squares would be closest to you with the wires pointing away from you and into the car. The one wire that I drew in dashes is the wire that's further below in the connector, the other 3 are at the "surface" of the connector. If anyone needs help understanding my "electric diagram for noobs" please don't hesitate to ask.


    Thanks for your help again r3v!!! :)
    Attached Files
    09/1989 325i 4 Door
    +M30 Swap
    +Z3 Steering Rack

    #2
    anyone?
    09/1989 325i 4 Door
    +M30 Swap
    +Z3 Steering Rack

    Comment


      #3
      hello?

      they closed the nws threads you guys should be fapping less, where is everyone?
      09/1989 325i 4 Door
      +M30 Swap
      +Z3 Steering Rack

      Comment


        #4
        BL = Blue
        BR = Brown
        GE = Yellow
        GN = Green
        GY = Gray
        OR = Orange
        RS = Pink
        RT = Red
        SW = Black
        VI = Violet
        WS = White
        TR = Transparent.

        According to my factory service manual.
        Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|

        Comment


          #5
          All of this comes from a body electronics control module. That could be bad.

          The window switch is not in series with the motor control.

          Maybe there is a break in the insulation and one of the 12v is feeding the P0 line.
          Last edited by b*saint; 06-07-2011, 04:03 AM.
          Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by b*saint View Post
            All of this comes from a body electronics control module. That could be bad.

            The window switch is not in series with the motor control.

            Maybe there is a break in the insulation and one of the 12v is feeding the P0 line.
            I'm thinking more along the insulation being broken. I'm just being a lazy ass and not wanting to cut away all the black cover tape stuff.
            09/1989 325i 4 Door
            +M30 Swap
            +Z3 Steering Rack

            Comment


              #7
              well, right before I became really lazy and was considering taking it to a shop I did what I should of done a long time ago and "cut away all the black cover tape stuff".

              I started tugging everywhere and I found that black and yellow wire feeding through the door jamb sheared. Had to take out the driver's seat, seat belt, and that black plastic cover so I could get to it but it's working now! pictures up soon in case anyone needs to see them.
              09/1989 325i 4 Door
              +M30 Swap
              +Z3 Steering Rack

              Comment


                #8
                e36 windows not working

                1993 e36. Problem: Windows started to go up and down intermittently, then stopped all together. Removed comfort relay and found no weak solder joint, but resoldered anyway.

                Bought "supposedly known good" window switches from junk yard. Problem still exists.

                Noticed this evening that (after soldering the comfort relay) that the windows still go up and down 1/2 inch when opening or closing the doors. I hear this was designed because of the problem the old e30's had when the windows would catch the canvas. When I open or close either door, the window still goes down a half inch when opening, and the goes back up when door is closed.

                That said, does that still sound like the comfort relay? I also noticed that the window switches illuminate when sitting in the car with the key in the ignition and the lights on.

                Any ideas?

                Comment

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