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    No more problemo :)
    Last edited by cmybimmer; 03-22-2013, 04:56 PM.

    #2
    Cricket..

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      #3
      You have a relay latching somewhere and providing the power to the "Run" Circuit that is keeping the car running.
      Start it up. Turn it off. with car still running (With key off) start pulling relays. That will help you isolate which circuit(s) is/are the culprit. I'm willing to bet it's the relay closest to the front, on the fender. The car should shut off when you pull this relay. (Normal, or otherwise), and another one.

      Long story short. You have a wire going from the switched circuit after the relay, to the relay signal wire.
      Relay gets signal. energizes
      Power goes through the energized relay, gets to "Jumper"
      Other side of jumper is connected to the signal wire. Maintaining connection. Effective latch.
      Last edited by TurboJake; 08-20-2011, 02:36 AM.


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        #4
        Alright! Soo I took your advice, and with the key out and motor running I took out all the relays one by one and it ended up being the one you assumed would be the problem (closest to the front on the fender). Soo what exactly does that mean? Bad relay? I switched it out with a working one and it did nothing. So now that we know its the relay, what do I do next?

        And props for hitting the nail on the head!

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          #5
          I already explained it. Your wiring is messed up somewhere, with probably a single wire causing the relay to latch, and never de-energize. Do realize I'm not deserving of any props, because that's the main relay (Which is what runs your motor)

          Once started, the relay is getting a signal (with 99% certainty from a circuit involved with itself), and is not de-energizing until power is completely removed from it. Indicative of a latched relay

          So. as a quick fix that will work. You can install a Normally closed momentary switch in line with the relays energize signal wire. Turn off ign, push button, car shuts off.
          OR! a SPST switch in line with the signal wire to the relay. That would work too.

          You could do this and drive it in the meantime, instead of hunting down the wire right away,
          Last edited by TurboJake; 08-21-2011, 03:02 AM.


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            #6
            Well I have some good/weird/confusing news... I bought a SPST switch which I was intending to connect to the relay. Doing so, I cut the black/green wire so I can wire the two ends to the switch. Well, I start the motor and when I push the button the motor stays on :/. Then I turned the key off and the motor turned off! I turn the motor back on right after that, and disconnected the switch altogether. Turned the key off again and the motor shut off.

            So basically all I did was cut that black/green relay wire (cabin side) and everything started working properly again! I dunno if thats a good thing or not?

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              #7
              wire everything back the way it was.

              Disconnect the green wire I highlighted and connect it to where the red highlighted wire is.
              all other grounds should be chassis

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                #8
                Also check and make sure you didn't do a shitty job with the alarm setup if it's tied into your ignition.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Vtec?lol View Post
                  wire everything back the way it was.

                  Disconnect the green wire I highlighted and connect it to where the red highlighted wire is.
                  all other grounds should be chassis
                  I never touched that red highlighted wire. Thats how it was connected even with the m20 so I thought not to touch it. And isnt the green highlighted wire a power wire? It IS red when I peal back the cover. i dunno man, last thing I'd want to do is put a power wire to ground :???:

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                    #10
                    they don't form a circuit. you won't be shorting anything.
                    Don't move the red highlighted wire, just put the green one with the red one and your problem should be fixed

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                      #11
                      Hmm ok, i'll try that when I get around to working on the car again. Thanks

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                        #12
                        You sure about that? He will probably do that and have a dead car until he puts it back.


                        That small black wire is fed by the fusible link in the trunk that likes to fry when someone does something dumb to the car in the 20+ years it's been on the road, or just crap out from corrosion.

                        Moving the wire from its proper place where it probably is on your car Vtec?lol, to the main battery lug as it is on cmybimmer's car is the simple "get the goddamn thing working again" fix.

                        Factory fresh is always a good baseline to start with when trying to figure crap out, but with older stuff sometimes you have to develop an eye for the popular "repairs" on certain things. ;)
                        -Dave
                        2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville

                        Need some help figuring out the ETM?

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                          #13
                          Oh, forgot to update. I swapped the wires like mentioned above and it didn't fix the problem so I put it back the way it was. I ended up just connecting the SPST switch to the relay so I shut the motor off that way for now.

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                            #14
                            D2 coilovers

                            Hello,
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