How to install a killer stereo for $500 (loads of pics)
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Luke, why use Crimp connectors???Here is a quickie:
How to wire in the speakers on a non-premium car.
This covers late model non amplifed only at this point, but will be updated to cover early models soon.
OK, so pull your back seat and get the seatbelt out of the way, and find the rear speaker wires:

Now, grab about 20 feet of basic 16ga speaker wire, cut into 4 5' lengths. Wrap some tape around all 4, and shove it through the stock grommet:

Now get these things together:

Cut the rear wires and strip every end you have there. That would be all 4 aftermarket speaker wires and the cut ends of the stock wires:

Now, twist the pairs together. Remember that the black wires are positives on the stock wiring. I used the blue stripe as positive, but whatever you have, get the positives adn negatives correct and start crimping them as shown:

Note the technique, so when you are done you will have anice tidy bundle you can tape up:



Now, after 10 minutes, you are half way there
On to the next step, the wiring behind the deck.
What we did back there, if it isn't obvious, is connect the rear wires to the trunk wires and connect the front half of the rear wire run to the trunk wires...so how does that get to the front speakers? Simple, you connect them together behind the deck:

Note the colors: left rear positive now connects to left front positive and so on.
Now, as you see, the wires running from the trunk connect to the wires that run to the front and connect to the front wires behind the deck, so you need not run any wire at all, except RCAs and remote.
I am hoping that it is obvious that you don't connect these wires to anything else. They are just front speaker wires now, from the amp to the stock locations.
Does that help?
Luke
Would it not be better to solder the wired need together and heat shrink round them, better for passing sound through, rether than crimping.
RavLeave a comment:
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Sorry, missed your question...that 2 weeks with basically no internet sucked!
Anyway, no, don't ground on the battery, as the goal is using the ground plane of the body of the car to isolate noise, plus the amperage draw all on the single spot can be stressful to the actual metal of the terminal
Plus, who wants to wrangle more crap into that spot?
If you wanted to, you could use the stock ground lug on the body of the car...but honestly, why not just do it properly, make your own nice solid ground point right where you need it.
Perhaps you noticed how BMW does their grounds? Seems like following their lead might not be a bad idea.
Guys, please just make your own ground point. Shiny clean metal, a nut and a bolt, a couple washers and voilà ', a proper ground. Spend that extra 10 minutes to make a proper connection and you will keep your amplifier alive much longer.
Make sense?
LukeLeave a comment:
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why not just ground off the negative battery cable bolt?Basically anywhere that is actual floor of the trunk is good. I generally ground somewhere near the stock battery cable, like just behind the shock tower.
When you do your ground point, scrape the hell out of the metal so you get down to shiny clean metal.
Tuning guide coming soon, we hope!Leave a comment:
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have the same whining noise as well? made sure the ground was solid (my electrical engineer friend said) does this have to do with the other wires i extended? need help:/Leave a comment:
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Basically anywhere that is actual floor of the trunk is good. I generally ground somewhere near the stock battery cable, like just behind the shock tower.
When you do your ground point, scrape the hell out of the metal so you get down to shiny clean metal.
Tuning guide coming soon, we hope!Leave a comment:
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Any pics of where you made the ground? I get a nice winding noise like my car is going to explode and I think my ground is the culpritLeave a comment:
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Just installed.
I put a simple 10" sealed from my other car.
It is far too late to start messing with levels and tuning. Wish I could:(
Reading the very short manual on this amp, hopefully turn some knobs tomorrow.
BTW, was anything ever posted about tuning this system?Leave a comment:
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I hear there's this audio shop in Renton that does decent work ;)Leave a comment:
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I installed a sound system in my old '86 635csi, however it was nothing near as cool as this. Reading through your post, however, I am not sure I will be able to do all of this (I am a huge noob..). If I bought your box, the headunit/sub/amp (and wiring kit, if thats necessary?), do you know of any audio shops that will install it for me near either Seattle, Kent, or anywhere in the vacinity? I would hate to start ripping up my car and then figure out I screwed it up somewhere, and have it not work :PLeave a comment:
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Sweet! Don't have time to read it all at work, but effing awesome idea. I bought your box months ago ... shit maybe even a year ago but being an audio noob have shy'd away from trying to install it and it's been sitting.
So hats off to you good sir, hopefully I'm capable of actually installing a sound system after this :)Leave a comment:
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Probably end of this month? :DSo when do we get on yours? So far I have products for every type of E30 except 2: the power top vert and the M3. Hell, we even do a box for the E30 Touring!
Thanks for the kind words too, bud. That 'vert kicks ass, doesn't it? I wish more people here could hear it.Leave a comment:
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The trunk side panels are different than any other E30, so yes and no. The box is the same, but the "pretty panel" template nor the amp rack fit. I have been wanting to get my paws on an M3 just so I can address that issue.
Much like needing to get my paws on an E46, but I only need an M3 for one day.Leave a comment:

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