How to install a killer stereo for $500 (loads of pics)

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  • mr walker
    replied
    Luke, THANK YOU! I was literally getting ready to PM you about a recommendation for an e30 setup...for right around $500!

    This is great, and I'm really looking forward to the rest of this thread.

    Thanks again!

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  • Mullet Bullet
    replied
    i tied mine in a know, used a glob of silicone and then a zip tie on top to hold it in place.

    why is this not a sticky yet luke?

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Originally posted by dwvw
    Great write up so far.

    Not a big fan of drywall screws though, threw them all out at my shop.
    Why? They are so universal and due to their coating, are generally rust proof. Easy to use to as the sharp point starts nicely without having to pre-drill a hole.

    Luke, write-up is looking good.

    Why do you use a zip-tie on the sub wire inside the box instead of just tying a knot? Just curious as you seem apposed to zip ties everywhere else.

    Leave a comment:


  • dwvw
    replied
    Great write up so far.

    Not a big fan of drywall screws though, threw them all out at my shop.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Yeah, that is just fine

    Leave a comment:


  • bernzpeed
    replied
    is this any good? only $18 bux

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PKBL4-4CH.html

    Leave a comment:


  • ScHpAnKy
    replied
    awesome walk-through so far, I wanted to get a decent system for my iX since it's already heavy as shit... and has that SHIT popular-as-fuck sony deck in there now.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by Threehz
    What is this, "trunk tar" you speak of?

    Good write-up so far! Hopefully this January I'll be able to throw a write-up for non-premium speakers, or non-stock speakers.
    Ugh. Trunk tar is the heavy weight ballast found in all 6 cylinder RWD E30s that have a roof and a rear battery. The intent of the ballast is to achieve proper weight distribution.


    That whole discussion technically is not part of this thread, but if you have a 6 cylinder E30 made after 10/87, your car came with a thick nasty layer of evil goo that is horribly stuck to the floor of your trunk. To fit one of my subwoofer boxes, this MUST come out. I have had them literally peel up with zero effort, while others I have fought for hours.

    There have been many discussions of how to remove it, but generally it boils down to 2 techniques: freeze it or heat it. I generally heat it using halogen work lamps, I mostly just heat and scrape. I use a big 2" wide chisel to scrape it off. I bitch and moan the entire time as I find that helps...but I have done both.

    If you get about 20 pounds of dry ice, shatter it into a zillion bits, spread it evenly over the entire area and lay a couple of towels over that, wait 20 minutes and gently whack it with a hammer, it shatters into little chunks and can be scooped out. Very messy but also very easy.

    Dry ice is just not that easy to find, and it is not worth the $25 to me each and every time I do it, but I do prefer the "freeze" technique. It is WAY easier IMO.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dominic49
    replied
    tar is not there on your 318is^

    Leave a comment:


  • Threehz
    replied
    What is this, "trunk tar" you speak of?

    Good write-up so far! Hopefully this January I'll be able to throw a write-up for non-premium speakers, or non-stock speakers.

    Leave a comment:


  • frankenbeemer
    replied
    Originally posted by ak-
    Yeah, so get the FUCK off his lawn.

    And stay out of his Roses (with that soldering iron)!

    Great write-up!

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by jaywood
    Since this is supposed to be a thread for noobs, could you explain why solder in a car is stupid?

    Feel free to delete this post if you don't like it.




    Ps: not trying to start an argument, just curious.
    How about we say that there has been much discussion on this subject and we can all talk about it elsewhere.

    I always share my opinion on the subject, as do many other well-respected members of this community. I just don't want to see this thread get all cluttered with that particular subject.

    This is a tutorial written by a guy who has been a professional car stereo installer for over 30 years trying to show others how he does it, not a debate of how to connect wires together.

    Sorry if that comes across as egotistical or self-serving. That is not my goal here. However, plain and simple...I will not let that discussion happen in this thread.

    This thread is intended to help, give people hope that they can install a stereo in their car...but we seem to have some people here who just can't leave it at that, thus my attitude.

    Leave a comment:


  • jaywood
    replied
    Since this is supposed to be a thread for noobs, could you explain why solder in a car is stupid?

    Feel free to delete this post if you don't like it.




    Ps: not trying to start an argument, just curious.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by Dominic49
    i was asking for a simple response. from a newbs perspective it would be best to explain why you choose to do things a certain way vs telling them this is the way.

    if you have a problem with that whatever but getting all defensive and blasting me is no way to get things done.

    p.s.

    I prefer ferrules with terminal blocks but thats just me
    Sorry about that. I did explain the answer to you...but then failed to put in some form of disclaimer about the solder fans, so it seemed like I was blasting you...sorry.

    Basically, the electrical tape is only to control wires. You can use wire ties, but I prefer this tape to wire ties. If you have not used this particular tape, try it. It is nearly $5 a roll and worth every penny.

    Leave a comment:


  • gtdragon980
    replied
    Need...to...get...luke box!

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