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How to install a killer stereo for $500 (loads of pics)

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  • Sh3rpak!ng
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
    Ya, just hit any online vendor and look. There's an incredible deal on Sonicelectronix.com right now, a Powerbass 700.5X for 120 shipped!

    Thank you sir!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Ya, just hit any online vendor and look. There's an incredible deal on Sonicelectronix.com right now, a Powerbass 700.5X for 120 shipped!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sh3rpak!ng
    replied
    Hey luke, do you have any new suggestions for an affordable (less than $200) 5 channel amp?

    Can't find the jensen 5500 anymore and that link to the amp above is discontinued :(

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Yeah, the Premium Harness makes it easy, unless you were to do the "Classic" PCN, which would wipe out your whole budget.

    BTW, killer deal on an amazing performing but absolutely hideous amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-MB-Quart.html

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by codyep3 View Post
    going to be picking up a buddies setup that followed your cookie cutter build for the most part. Only issue is that he has the sport audio with the factory amp. The car I will be putting this into is a 1987 325e with regular audio. Is there a DIY for a non-sport audio car?
    I have got to get that done! Yes, it's actually covered in this thread, but I think I need to re-organize the installs, since there are 5 different wiring schemes in E30 alone

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr. Tasty
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
    I think the cheaper gear means weenier picofuses, tiny little SMDs that just take the abuse.

    All in all, yeah, turn it off before you unplug it
    going to be picking up a buddies setup that followed your cookie cutter build for the most part. Only issue is that he has the sport audio with the factory amp. The car I will be putting this into is a 1987 325e with regular audio. Is there a DIY for a non-sport audio car?

    Leave a comment:


  • gwb72tii
    replied
    I just want to give a shout out to Luke. I can repair almost anything mechanical, but electronics/electric circuits not so much.
    Luke spent probably an hour texting me, holding my hand (sorry blunt I still love you) and got me to the finish line. What seemed like arguing from me really was my ignorance about electrical things showing thru.
    The result was sort of like starting a motor for the first time after rebuilding it. You sort of hold your breath and try to remember anything you didn't do.
    Fuck me my sound system sounds great.
    So here's to you Luke. Glad your moving to the harbor. Next drink's on me.

    Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    I think the cheaper gear means weenier picofuses, tiny little SMDs that just take the abuse.

    All in all, yeah, turn it off before you unplug it

    Leave a comment:


  • DER E30
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
    Chad, it's a dirty old installer trick that doesn't always fix things on modern gear.

    What he is talking about is putting chassis ground to the shield of the rca.

    Grab a foot or two of wire, connect it to the decks chassis. Strip back the other end, start the motor, play the system and see if touching that wire to the outer ring of the rca fixes it. If it does, solder a wire to each RCA and ground them all
    This.

    I did this on mine and it got much quieter... I think I popped the pico-fuse business in my deck hot swapping the RCA's, I did that and it was much better. No more blower noise!

    SO don't swap RCAs with the system on people!

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Chad, it's a dirty old installer trick that doesn't always fix things on modern gear.

    What he is talking about is putting chassis ground to the shield of the rca.

    Grab a foot or two of wire, connect it to the decks chassis. Strip back the other end, start the motor, play the system and see if touching that wire to the outer ring of the rca fixes it. If it does, solder a wire to each RCA and ground them all

    Leave a comment:


  • chad h
    replied
    Tried using a different ground on the HU, no difference.

    Grounding RCAs? May need some explanation on that..

    Leave a comment:


  • DER E30
    replied
    Originally posted by chad h View Post
    So i put in my amp and am still getting buzz/whine. I moved the ground and it didn't make much of a difference, i made sure i scraped off paint. My power cable is running down the passenger side with my rca's on the drivers side. I'm running out of ideas.. Is it time to get filters for the system?
    How's the ground on the HU? Ground the ends of the RCAs?

    Leave a comment:


  • chad h
    replied
    So i put in my amp and am still getting buzz/whine. I moved the ground and it didn't make much of a difference, i made sure i scraped off paint. My power cable is running down the passenger side with my rca's on the drivers side. I'm running out of ideas.. Is it time to get filters for the system?

    Leave a comment:


  • azndeugene
    replied
    Bump for a great write up, amazing service, and a magical product. The 10" Lukebox is inexplicably magical!



    Leave a comment:


  • MPLFoster
    replied
    Originally posted by mikerob97 View Post
    So in general, sounds like folks like the stock premium sound speakers over other $75/pair price point speakers?
    That's what i'm doing. Considered getting new components but after reading what people have to say about the OEM premiums i'm going to give them a shot. pretty stoked for this set up.




    Ready to go! :up:






    bump for an awesome vendor and a great write-up.

    Leave a comment:

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