Like the title says... my license plate overhead check panel light is lit like they're burnt out, but they both work. I've searched but this must not be common problem. Anyone have an idea on what could be causing this or how to fix? It's bugging the piss out of me!
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license plate check panel light on, but lights are good
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Originally posted by dubdub View PostIf it was any other rear light issue, the recommendation would be to clean the connection and replace the bulbs from dealership. I would recommend the same.
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Well, my reverse lights don't work either... they did when I first got the car but quit a couple months after. The bulbs and fuses are all good. But these went out well before the license plate warning light came on. I'll try cleaning the connections and move on to the dealership bulbs if that doesn't work.
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I know is sounds silly that one bulb would work and another wouldn't but the check system runs off the impedence of the circuit... sometimes the non-factory bulbs have either a brass or silver base, and, over time, can cause the ciuircut to fail.
So are you saying the reverse lights don't work at all, or they check panel light is on?
If they don't work at all, I'd first check if you were getting power to the rear light cluster, if not start looking from there. I believe there is a reverse light switch that should trigger it. Probably another good place to start.
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Glad I found this. I'm having a similar issue except: my check panel is showing brake light failure, but they are actually working.
So per the recommendations above, I bought new bulbs and cleaned contacts with no result. Are there any known causes for this? Or where should I start troubleshooting?Past: 1987 325iS, Bilsteins - HR Sports
Present: 1999 M3, Koni Yellows - HR Sports - GC Camber Plates - UUC Swaybars - UUC SSK - AFE Intake - Stromung Catback
2009 Mazdaspeed3, Short Ram Intake - Turbo Inlet Pipe - 2nd cat Delete - Catback - Fuel Pump Internals - Cobb Accessport - Stratified E30 tune - 294/342 - SPC Camber Arms - CPE Rear Motor Mount
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Originally posted by kungfooren View PostHi,
I thought it'd bump this thread since I'm running into the same issue as the original poster.
License plate lights are ok but the check panel overhead is saying they're not.
Thanks
Your is right in front of the antenna, left side of the trunk, same bracket as the amplifier (if so equipped). Lots of cars have leaky antenna grommets, now is a great time to get one on order if yours isn't perfect, they are only $8 or so.
That grommet being bad is what kills the check control relay pack and the stock amps. Almost every one I have ever seen has had water on it.
Next thing to do is take apart the connector on the bulb itself, including the "plug in socket" style and make sure it is nice and clean. A typical pencil eraser will do a kick-ass job on the contacts, but just cleaning all the connections will typically fix all of the false bulb faults.
GL and go kick some ass!
Luke
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There is also a check panel relay in the third brake light housing. Mine had a broken solder joint that caused the brake light check to come on. As for the license plate light, I have noticed that when I remote start my car and turn the key on before turning on the park lights, my license plate light check will come on, even though the light works. If I tun on my park lights before turning the key on the check panel light does not come on.
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Originally posted by dwvw View PostThere is also a check panel relay in the third brake light housing. Mine had a broken solder joint that caused the brake light check to come on. As for the license plate light, I have noticed that when I remote start my car and turn the key on before turning on the park lights, my license plate light check will come on, even though the light works. If I tun on my park lights before turning the key on the check panel light does not come on.
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Just gonna chime in here, I think I found the cause of my faulty brake light warning. Rusty bulb socket. I replaced my tail light gaskets a few years ago, because rain was getting in. Pretty sure that's why the socket rusted. Now it's time for new sockets. No amount of brushing will cure those I'm pretty sure.
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Oh, guess what. I guess the sockets aren't that bad. All I had to do was swap the 3rd brake light bulb for a newer one. You wouldn't really think to do that just by looking at the old one. It didn't look corroded or anything. Ladies and gentlemen, today is a good day. This is the first day of all my years of E30 ownership that my check panel is all clear, all the time. One less button to push!
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Originally posted by usualdeviant View PostOh, guess what. I guess the sockets aren't that bad. All I had to do was swap the 3rd brake light bulb for a newer one. You wouldn't really think to do that just by looking at the old one. It didn't look corroded or anything. Ladies and gentlemen, today is a good day. This is the first day of all my years of E30 ownership that my check panel is all clear, all the time. One less button to push!
--Mike(OO=[][]=OO) For Life
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