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Verifying my plan

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    Verifying my plan

    Hey there,
    New to these forums, not to e30's though. Had mine for several years, many miles....all of them with horrible sound. As of now I am missing sound completely on the right side of my car. It occasionally cuts back in, then out again. It is 1989 325i with premium, and the fader built in to the headunit. My plan is to follow Luke's blue print for the 500$ system. I havent picked a headunit yet, but I'll keep it cheap and clean, as long as it matches color. What I'm curious on is my amp choice. The Jensen that is recommended isn't available to me, but I do already have a rockford fosgate p4004. See link


    My plan is to follow the splicing methods in the stickied thread, but bridge the amp to power the sub, and use the other two channels to power the fronts. Then I'll use the Headunit to power the rears. Does this sound like it should work with that amp? I think I can figure out how to splice the wires to do that, I've read and searched as many threads on this forum as I can about wiring the e30. Saved pages...made notes...but if I run in to problems, I'll come screaming for help. So...should this work? Thanks folks!
    Aaron

    #2
    Bump. Help

    Comment


      #3
      one last bump? Any help out there? I may just go for it

      Comment


        #4
        You may have a volume out put issue running deck power to one set and ampd power the other.
        I bought my E30 it had a pioneer unit already in it. I have since ran all new wires to the speakers as I had cut out isues too.
        sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
        The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

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          #5
          If I had a deck that allowed me to fade output away from the rear speakers, could I compensate for that volume issue? My other option is to just not bother with rear fill. Really only messes up my front stage anyways, right?
          My main concern was...can that amp be bridged to allow for two front channels and one sub?

          Comment


            #6
            I have the next newer p400-4 and it takes a beating ran at 1ohm on all channels for a very long time... 9+ months with no issues. I assure you any punch or power series fosgate will take the beating.
            Dont make it complicated run the F/R speakers off channels 1/2 and the sub off channel 3/4. Again getting this sucker down to 1 ohm is no issue. If you want to play it safe and maitain seprate F/R control then add a p300-1 and yet again these little beasts gets down to 1 ohm for going on 2 years.

            I hate fosgate speakers but LOVE their punch/power series amps.Just my 2 cents and experience with them.

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              #7
              perfect, thats largely what I was wondering. If just one channel can be bridged like that. Thanks! The amp hasnt been used in a bit, and may have taken a short fall off a shelf. Heres hoping it still works.

              Comment


                #8
                So sorry, I did not see this thread before.

                Yes, your plan will work perfectly.

                If you use one of our E3010" boxes and pretty much any SVC 10" (get a sharktooth while you still can, they kick ass in our boxes) you can use the gain controls to easily match the front/rear/sub balance beautifully.

                You can do the same with either the 8" or the 12" boxes. The 12" will have a little too much bass and the 8" won't have quite enough. For your setup, the 10" will be perfect.

                The important part is the high pass filter. You have to make sure the deck you choose has a HPF in it. If you were to use that Pioneer, the HPF will work perfectly for your application.

                GL!
                Luke

                August R3VLimited Special: E3012 "V3" box: $225 shipped

                Tutorials: Killer $500 Stereo | E30 Vert Dual 8'' Box Installation | E3010 Amp Rack Installation | Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass

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                  #9
                  I would love to have a lukebox...but getting one of those suckers shipped up to Canada....now there's a hassle. I have a box that was built for my sub sealed to the ski pass already. Its a decent sub too. Box was built several years back with the help of a friend who's an audio engineer. Not ported, but it does sound good from what I remember, since it hasnt been played in about two years. If I get it all up and running and the sub doesnt sound good...I'll swap subs or build a new box for it or something. Figure that out when the time comes.
                  Last edited by delormea397; 02-29-2012, 12:20 AM.

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                    #10

                    Thats what I have in the car. I think I will, come summer, build a nicer looking, better box for it that seals to the ski pass better. My current box is very poorly sealed...It's sturdy, but slightly ugly

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by delormea397 View Post
                      http://www.solen.ca/pdf/hivi/sp10.pdf
                      Thats what I have in the car. I think I will, come summer, build a nicer looking, better box for it that seals to the ski pass better. My current box is very poorly sealed...It's sturdy, but slightly ugly
                      That looks to be a gorgeous woofer, but I would not recommend it for my boxes. The Qts is WAY too high and the Fs is also too high.

                      August R3VLimited Special: E3012 "V3" box: $225 shipped

                      Tutorials: Killer $500 Stereo | E30 Vert Dual 8'' Box Installation | E3010 Amp Rack Installation | Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass

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                        #12
                        I have it in a sealed .6 cu ft enclosure as reccomended by hivi. Seem about right?
                        How would a peerless xls 10 do in your enclosure?

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