Constant feedback after amplifier install, suggestions?

[broke30]

Hey all,
I'm not a wiring/electronics guru by any means, but I do have an issue with my stereo. I have a Rockford Fosgate Punch 4-channel amplifier that is run to all of my speakers and provides me with a single aux output for my to plug an ipod into (i.e. I have no deck/radio). The previous owner had an aftermarket headunit installed and had the tweeters tapped into the main speakers and running back to the stock amplifier.

My issue is, I'm getting feedback from the alternator I assume as it produces a humming that is rpm dependent. If the car is off, no noise whatsoever (aside from the music). Anyways, I don't have any speaker wire running alongside the battery cable, no dirty grounds, etc.

Any help would be appreciated. Please let me know if you have any questions that would help diagnose this. Thanks

Max

[Eljosh]

Do you have your speaker wires, or aux in wire, close or touching your power wire to the amp?

[broke30]

Do you have your speaker wires, or aux in wire, close or touching your power wire to the amp?

No, that was one other suggestion I found from searching. However now that I think of it, my aux in wires are touching the "remote" wire, is that enough interference to cause issues?

Thanks for the response

Max

[broke30]

One other question,
Would it be advisable to wire the tweeters completely separate from the main speakers? I only ask because none of them are working right now (like I said, they're bridged to the main speaker wires).

Max

[PNWDan]

No, that was one other suggestion I found from searching. However now that I think of it, my aux in wires are touching the "remote" wire, is that enough interference to cause issues?

Thanks for the response

Max

Have had bad grounds act this way. Where is it grounded to?

[broke30]

Have had bad grounds act this way. Where is it grounded to?

I sanded a section of the strut tower down to the metal. Additionally, I tried it directly to the battery to see if it changed at all, but it didn't. My ground isn't too long either (>18inches long)

Max

[StereoInstaller1]

I have a Rockford Fosgate Punch 4-channel amplifier that is run to all of my speakers and provides me with a single aux output for my to plug an ipod into (i.e. I have no deck/radio).

Max, that is an OUTPUT...not an input.

That is used to run a subwoofer if your deck has only front/rear outputs.

IF you want to stick with the "no deck" thing, get a JL Audio CL-RLC and use it as a volume control/pre-amp. You will be noise-free at that point, unless something else is wrong.

[broke30]

I just wanted to thank Luke. He has been extremely helpful in solving my stereo issues. For those interested, I have since ordered the controller recommended by Luke and will report back. Thanks again to everyone!

Max

[StereoInstaller1]

Max, I just thought of something: that JL is only 1 pair of RCAs. No voltage worries as it makes plenty to run whatever as far as amps go, but you will need 2 "Y" cords so you can split the 2 output into 4.

If you already have a single set of RCAs running to the rear, get "1F2M" type.

Luke

[broke30]

Luke,
Your post confused me a little. Are you saying I do not need the controller if I just have 2 y-connections from my existing RCA cables to the amp? Or are you saying I need 2 y-connectors to go from the controller to the amp?

Max

[Kvasi]

Wouldnt one of these and any amp do the trick?

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-ZT19006...5354433&sr=1-7

[broke30]

Wouldnt one of these and any amp do the trick?

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-ZT19006...5354433&sr=1-7

That's what I have in there currently (except instead of an ipod connector there is a standard aux connector) and am still having problems.

Max

[StereoInstaller1]

Luke,
Your post confused me a little. Are you saying I do not need the controller if I just have 2 y-connections from my existing RCA cables to the amp? Or are you saying I need 2 y-connectors to go from the controller to the amp?

Max

Bingo. You have to feed all 4 channels if there is no "Input Mode" switch.

OK, next:

Wouldnt one of these and any amp do the trick?

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-ZT19006...5354433&sr=1-7

Nope, you cannot do that. Just because a plug fits does not mean it is the correct range of voltages, and in this case you MUST have something to raise the voltages. Plus, having a nice volume control anywhere you want to put it is very nice.

Yeah, it can play without it (not if it is plugged into the amps output though, duh!) but it will not reach anywhere near full volume and overall, it will suck ass.

That little JL piece is a great way to do it, but not the only way. You can also use an AudioControl Three.1 or any of the other "pre-amps" out there.

The nice thing about the JL piece is that if you decide to get a deck later, you can use it as a sub level controller instead of a volume control.

So Max, when you get the thing, there are several plugs on it. The ones that say "FIXED OUTPUT" do not get used at all, only input and variable output.
Use the stock deck wiring to power it, there are only 3 wires.

Also, be aware that there is no "remote" wire to turn your amp on. You can use a switch, or just have the amp turn on when you start the car. You might wanna start thinking about where you want to put a switch now.

Luke

[Brian D]

I'm using the Audiocontrol line driver, http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161OVER...s.html?tp=9503 I love audiocontrol stuff. I don't know how the price compares to the JL that Luke suggested.

I used an old foglight switch, just use a multimeter to find the switched terminals and plug your remote turn on wires in, and it goes into the area above where the old radio was. Pretty low key that way.

[Eljosh]

Just as another option here, you can use an Istreamer as an interface between your amp and ipod. And they got very good sound. I know alot of people use them for the Ipad in the dash set ups.

http://www.highresolutiontechnologies.com/products/