Luke, or anyone else who is good with this stuff,
Sorry for kicking a dead horse, but I want to be sure I can go through with this procedure and get some decent results...
I have been looking at this article and found it to be true in my application as well:
Firing rearward with my sealed box from the rear does give the best output.
I'm going to fab a dual 12" JL 12W3v2 sealed enclosure and have it stretch all the way across the rear seatback sheet metal, bolted from behind. Now, my subs do have grilles that more than accomodate Xmax+15%, so I know I can fit a false wall and have it fitting right up onto the grilles. Ideally I want to be able to preserve my spare tire access, while also preserving the bass. Right now I only have one 12 firing at the trunk door from just a few inches away and it sounds great and doesn't pull. The false panel mounted right up against the woofers should preserve the relatively synched reflected/incidence waves, correct? This also creates acoustic coupling, yes?
Also, I have removed my rear speakers and have redone my rear shelf panel. Would it be a better option to create a sort of bandpass enclosure with this false wall and have the bass enter the cabin through the stock speaker cutouts only, or have a gap setup between the ski boot (which is open) and have the bass be able to enter through that as well?
BTW, I'm not looking for any sort of peaky response, I just want to be able to make my enclosure highly theft resistant and stealthy while also being able to achieve a reflected wave that is relatively in phase with the incident wave.
Ugh, all of this stuff gets way too complicated. Hopefully I can get a good answer. Thanks in advance...
Sorry for kicking a dead horse, but I want to be sure I can go through with this procedure and get some decent results...
I have been looking at this article and found it to be true in my application as well:
Firing rearward with my sealed box from the rear does give the best output.
I'm going to fab a dual 12" JL 12W3v2 sealed enclosure and have it stretch all the way across the rear seatback sheet metal, bolted from behind. Now, my subs do have grilles that more than accomodate Xmax+15%, so I know I can fit a false wall and have it fitting right up onto the grilles. Ideally I want to be able to preserve my spare tire access, while also preserving the bass. Right now I only have one 12 firing at the trunk door from just a few inches away and it sounds great and doesn't pull. The false panel mounted right up against the woofers should preserve the relatively synched reflected/incidence waves, correct? This also creates acoustic coupling, yes?
Also, I have removed my rear speakers and have redone my rear shelf panel. Would it be a better option to create a sort of bandpass enclosure with this false wall and have the bass enter the cabin through the stock speaker cutouts only, or have a gap setup between the ski boot (which is open) and have the bass be able to enter through that as well?
BTW, I'm not looking for any sort of peaky response, I just want to be able to make my enclosure highly theft resistant and stealthy while also being able to achieve a reflected wave that is relatively in phase with the incident wave.
Ugh, all of this stuff gets way too complicated. Hopefully I can get a good answer. Thanks in advance...
Comment