Python 750 Keyless Entry Wiring?

[MrGeekFreak]

The previous owner installed a Python 750 alarm system back in the day, but never managed to wire up the keyless entry, dome lights, or parking lights to it.

I want to get the keyless entry working as soon as possible, just for convenience's sake, but I'm at a bit of a loss on how.

There is a three pin connector on the alarm module labeled DOOR LOCKS, with one pin pulsing 12v when the car's alarm is armed, another pulsing 12v when the alarm is unarmed, and a third one putting out a constant ~12v.

This seems a bit different from the other keyless entry systems I've seen installed on here, but who knows, maybe I'm just blanking.

Just for the heck of it, I wired up the unlock/lock wires to the respective wires under the dash, but I don't seem to get any lock activity.

Does anyone out there want to point me in the right direction?

[mr.bennett]

The green and blue lock and unlock wires are switching outputs they do + and -, the green wire on the alarm brain needs to go to the yellow/blue wire on the lock relays and the blue wire needs to go to the green/blue wire on the relays. you dont use the red wire on the alarm brain

[MrGeekFreak]

After researching it a little, it seems that I would need a 451m relay module to make it work.

Is that true in this case, or not?

[mr.bennett]

that is not the case, what year is your car?

[mr.bennett]

A 451m is basically two relays in one housing. the e30 already has relays for the locks wired into the car and you just need to tap into the wires for them. The relays are in the drivers kick panel below the speaker and there are two screws holding the relay pack in place. pull the speaker take the two screws out and pull the relays up and out of the cavity under the speaker. You will see the yellow/blue and green/blue wires going into the pack

[MrGeekFreak]

1988.

I tested the voltage on the lock/unlock wires coming out of the alarm unit, and one only gets a short 12v pulse when the alarm is armed, and the other does the same when it is unarmed, no negative voltages to be found.

And I just found what I presumed to be the lock/unlock wires under the dash, due to their yellow-blue and green-blue color-coding.

Should I go take another look?

[mr.bennett]

if you are testing for the negative outputs out of the brain measure impedence to ground not voltage. the green wire will pulse ground on lock and the blue wire will pulse ground on unlock. green will also pulse 12v on unlock and blue will pulse 12v on lock. I have personally never seen an dei unit that doesn't pulse negative locks like this.

[mr.bennett]

didnt see the last part of that. I would definately just go the the relays for the wires. here are the notes from dei on the lock and unlock wires for your car

Remove drivers kick panel speaker, remove plastic cover below speaker, remove the two screws to pull relays. Keep relays upright, so they do not fill with water later. These wires do not show pulses. Rather, one will rest (-) and the other will rest (+). Reversing the state of the locks flip-flops the polarity of these two wires. Putting a low-current (-) to the (+) wire will operate the locks (ONLY if the doors are latched shut and the pinswitches held in!). DO NOT attempt unlock after locking with the key, as the factory deadbolt system is key-activated AND NOT electrically unlockable, and damage can result to the lock system.

Remove drivers kick panel speaker, remove plastic cover below speaker, remove the two screws to pull relays. Keep relays upright, so they do not fill with water later. These wires do not show pulses. Rather, one will rest (-) and the other will rest (+). Reversing the state of the locks flip-flops the polarity of these two wires. Putting a low-current (-) to the (+) wire will operate the locks (ONLY if the doors are latched shut and the pinswitches held in!). DO NOT attempt unlock after locking with the key, as the factory deadbolt system is key-activated AND NOT electrically unlockable, and damage can result to the lock system.

[MrGeekFreak]

Thank you so much for the help, you are absolutely awesome.

Tomorrow, I'll have to make the lights flash along with the alarm, and maybe even get the horn wired up to it.

But first, I think it is about time to start studying for tomorrow's finals!

[mr.bennett]

No worries, you have to diode isolate the parking lights and they are gray/white and gray/yellow and the switch and are + polarity the horn is - and brown/yellow at the column

[StereoInstaller1]

didnt see the last part of that. I would definately just go the the relays for the wires. here are the notes from dei on the lock and unlock wires for your car

R
Remove drivers kick panel speaker, remove plastic cover below speaker, remove the two screws to pull relays. Keep relays upright, so they do not fill with water later. These wires do not show pulses. Rather, one will rest (-) and the other will rest (+). Reversing the state of the locks flip-flops the polarity of these two wires. Putting a low-current (-) to the (+) wire will operate the locks (ONLY if the doors are latched shut and the pinswitches held in!). DO NOT attempt unlock after locking with the key, as the factory deadbolt system is key-activated AND NOT electrically unlockable, and damage can result to the lock system.

This is close, but wrong. First, the central lock module needs to be vertical to prevent activating the "roll over" function. Most E30s are equipped with a safety feature that once the car rolls over (as in an accident) the locks will unlock permanently...so be careful when fooling with the module, keep it vertical when operating the locks.

Second, due to the fact that the E30 door lock system draws more current (typically around 700mA) than a typical relay AND also "rests" on ground (lock wire stays on ground instead of being a pulse like damn near every other car) you need to add relays.

Your DEI may or may not work OK without relays, but I can promise you it will stop working sooner or later. Lots of guys will say "bullshit, you don't need them, it works great"...well, don't believe it. Especially considering the cheapening of electronics in general, use relays.

The relays are very simple to wire in, if you don't know how, I can walk you through it.

Oh, and unless you have a "split parking light" headlight switch, you really needn't diode isolate the parking lights. Yes, you will be paralleling 2 fuses, I say BFD. It makes no difference either way. Same circuit protection, yadda yadda yadda. 3A diodes can be hard to find.

Luke

[MrGeekFreak]

So should I rip out the wiring I installed and toss a relay underneath the dash?

And what is the best place to tap into the wires for the lock's relay? I feel as if running an extra set of cables from the brain, all the way down to the lock relays, is a little redundant when they should be under the dash somewhere...

[dwvw]

Run them down there. I use relays with everything other than Compustar brand. You will need two relays, one for lock, one for unlock.

[StereoInstaller1]

So should I rip out the wiring I installed and toss a relay underneath the dash?

And what is the best place to tap into the wires for the lock's relay? I feel as if running an extra set of cables from the brain, all the way down to the lock relays, is a little redundant when they should be under the dash somewhere...

The wires run from the door harness to the central lock module on the drivers side, but across the floor from the passenger side, so getting them at the lock module is the correct location. If anything, you can also catch your door pins in there. You don't have to pull the speaker, but it is way easier to get to the wiring if you do.

Did you get some relays and are you OK with wiring them? I know it seems dumb to use relays to make a negative pulse when you already have a negative pulse, but that is how it works best.

GL!
Luke

[MrGeekFreak]

I had it wired up directly to the alarm brain for a few days, and it seemed to work fine, but ripped that config apart upon reading your last reply.

I keep meaning to head over to the autoparts store nearby, but the past few weeks have been unbelievably busy. The second that things begin to slow down, though, I'll be right on it.

Thank you so much for all of the help!