Ready for some audio.

[bobross]

Im ready to upgrade the tunes in my car. Im looking for a basic setup, ie. Headunit/amp/sub. i have seen some good stuff on this forum, so i figured id ask your thoughts on what to go with. So far im thinking an Alpine CDA9833 in the dash, and i will probibly going to go with alpines Sirius setup on that end. I have also decided to go with a single 10'' Kicker L7 in the trunk. The decision now is what amp to power my setup. I will be leaving the stock hifi components, but i think i would still like to go with a 5channel amp.... Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

[marakka]

I always always always recommend 2 amps. Audio is like crack. You never get enough. You put that 1 10 in there and its good for a couple of months... maybe even a year.... then you want more. Well next thing you know your 5 channel amp isn't big enough to power 2 12's and you have to get something else. Go with a setup that is most flexible. One 10" L7 should be able to handle about 200w or so. Any small monoblock amp should do you. I don't have current model numbers in my head, but Alpine has a nice little mono block for around $220. Just depends on what you wanna spend.
I'd recommend putting some thought into replacing your stock speakers before amplifiying them..... You'll blow the shit outta em if yo udon't.

[StereoInstaller1]

Greg, Audio is my life. Especially Car...well, Vinyl and tubes are first, but Car is second.

May I suggest a neat little trick that the 9833 is capable of? Use the "Bass Engine Pro" to its fullest advantage.

Go Tri-Amp.

Tri amping is where the tweeters use one amp, the mids another, the bass another still. You can easily do this with a 5 channel, or use the deck power to run your front mids and tweets.

The 9833 has the ability to control levels and crossover points from the deck, either with a seperate set of amps or onboard power.

You will no longer have a fader, but so what? I recommend not having rear speakers at all if you can help it!

As far as the sub issue goes, a single 10" in a carefully designed box with a decent woofer and enough power to satisfy would keep me happy for years.

When I was a kid, I had 4 Cerwin Vega 12's in 12 cubic feet with 2 Orion HCCA 250 amps for bass, PLUS my 3 Harmon Kardon CA260's on mids and highs...in a 1980 Scirroco. No SPL meter I ever found could measure it...in '83.

I used to really like my boom, but these days I am not willing to sacrifice my space to get it.

Today, at 42, I listen to Blues, Jazz, Rock, Reggae, some hip hop, some Lyle Lovett...about 2500 CDs keep me from being bored.

I have a group buy on Memphius Car Audio starting soon...it is good stuff. Not the best, but certainly above average. I don't wanna be spamming, but thought I might mention that.

Max and I agree on most every issue regarding Car Audio. One area we will disagree on is the stock speakers. If youare OK with SPL peaks of under 120db, those stock speakers with the factory crossovers removed and run in a tri-amp mode will shock and astound you...excellent clarity and punch, but under controlled circumstance only.

I can specify crossover points and slopes if you want.

Oh...for my money, Kicker is just about the worst value in Car Audio today. In the past few years they have gone to Chinese manufacture, that is why they are fighting CEA. Evverone is welcome to their own opinion, but an L7 is a good $100 woofer IMHO...but they sell for about $250 retail IIRC.

I wanna see a 2.5" voice coil, a cast aluminum frame, a rubber surround, an 80 oz magnet structure or more on a $200 woofer. Just my opinion, though.

Luke

[marakka]

Ahhh..... I was wondering what happened to Kicker Luke. Did they sell the whole product line or did they just switch manufacturers? Weren't they ran on the same line as JL at one time?


Mmmm...... Orion HCCA 250.... now THAT is an amp.

The reason I don't believe in amplifying stock speakers from a 15 year old (or more) car is because they are just like performance parts. They wear out. Dry rotting, abuse, and just plain daily use. For the price you pay for el cheapo Alpine or Kenwood or even Pioneer 2 ways, the customer usually doesn't have to come back with issues. I know there's nothing I hated more than when the guy who just spent $800 with me comes back and says my highs are crackin man. Then I have to explain why he needs to spend another $300 for some highs. But I do agree with you that anything in a controlled state can sound good and work adequately. Hell.... I've seen single 10" subs in folded horns pull 155db. Given the right installer and engineering anything can be possible.

[bobross]

Welll thanks for the responces guys, i definatly appreciate the insight. Threw past audio experiences i can definatly tell ya that a well setup 10'' should be plenty for me.

Luke, That neat little trick sounds awsome when explained, but i personly dont have the audio expeience to know how to set somthing like that up.

In the past i have run a few different setups, all of which included a headunit sub, 2chan amp for the sub and some seprates/coaxels at all corners (always run on stock speaker wiring). Each time i was dissapointed in the sound quality. the highs were just overpowering on every one of the different setups i ran. From that i have come to almost fear coaxils.

Anyways, i am happy with the sound output of the stock speakers at this time. Im not the guys that has the radio pumping on the highest volume setting pretty much ever. the stock setup, to me, just seems to be missing some low range. On top of that i want a reciever that will run sirius, and now im back to the amp decision.




Any suggestions on a nice 5channel amp that will power a nice 10'' and that i can grow into with some seprates down the line?

Thanks again.

[StereoInstaller1]

Baby Belle or Power Reference series from Memphis.

Bass Engine "Pro" is simply flip a switch. Runs the RCA outputs different. I can help you do it...tweeter, mid and bass levels are really nice to be able to adjust from the deck.

I will have pricing on Memphis GB soon...or Memphis will need a new rep in the NW...
Luke

[DSchultz325e]

I wanna see a 2.5" voice coil, a cast aluminum frame, a rubber surround, an 80 oz magnet structure or more on a $200 woofer. Just my opinion, though.

Luke

I miss the round solo-barics :(

[808BMW]

I like my SoundSplinter rl-P's ($220 @ soundsplinter.com)
Damn good sub for the price IMO

[bobross]

reviving the dead.

Luke, you know i love that you always come threw with the knowledge... I need to pick your brain some more. I'm ready for some audio. I still have that same alpine deck and im thinkin separates up front and a single 10 in the trunk. You mentioned that my deck was capable of tri-amping. teach me.... how many channel amp should i pick up? 2?

This is how i have it pictured...


Any thoughts? Will i be able to have separate control of the sub volume from my headunit?

[StereoInstaller1]

Greg, that is the normal setup, AKA 'Bi-Amping". Front, rear and subwoofer, means 1 "electronic" crossover point, that being low pass for the subs and high pass for the mids/tweets, which then run into their "passive" crossovers to send appropriate signals to the mids and tweets.

The deal I was describing is called "Tri-Amping" and uses seperate power and 3 "electronic" crossover points for the tweeters, mids, and subwoofers, with no passive crossovers at all.

You would then have low pass for the bass, "band pass" (passing midrange only) and high pass on the tweets.

Your deck can do it. You would not use rear speakers at all with that. It sounds absolutely amazing, and the stock speakers will just astound you using deck power for the front and a small mono amp for the Knicker.....er.....Kicker sub.

Voila.

Vee-O-LAH!

Luke

[bobross]

another pm sent. you commin out to ny any time soon? If your ever lookin for a place to stay, i have an e30 thats begging for you. you would be free to spend as much quality time with it as you like...

[bolognablake]

The deal I was describing is called "Tri-Amping" and uses seperate power and 3 "electronic" crossover points for the tweeters, mids, and subwoofers, with no passive crossovers at all.

Us youngins will also call that running 'active'.

And once you go active, you'll never go back. ;-)