Help? Replacing OEM stereo to aftermarket Pioneer HU

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  • darkcolor.666
    Advanced Member
    • Jan 2013
    • 140

    #1

    Help? Replacing OEM stereo to aftermarket Pioneer HU

    Hi all, so i took out the old OEM tape deck wanting to replace it with a Pioneer i purchased from Bestbuy. But i am unsure how to do the wiring. Can someone please help me? Do i need some sort of adapter?

    This is the rear of the new deck


    Wiring that came with the new deck



    Current wiring after pulling out old OEM tape deck



    Old deck plugs



  • AndrewBird
    The Mad Scientist
    • Oct 2003
    • 11892

    #2
    There is a sticky right at the top of the forum:

    Comment

    • Komzorz
      Grease Monkey
      • Jun 2011
      • 332

      #3
      Man, that's like, a lot of effort with all the pictures and everything.
      '87 325is - Schwarz/Schwarz

      Comment

      • darkcolor.666
        Advanced Member
        • Jan 2013
        • 140

        #4
        Originally posted by Komzorz
        Man, that's like, a lot of effort with all the pictures and everything.
        Yeah desperate for help you know? I was all excited yanking stuffs out then I see the wirings I was like wtf?!

        Comment

        • mr ilia
          E30 Addict
          • May 2011
          • 582

          #5
          Wiring a deck is not that difficult at all, it is about about color matching....but things can be complicated if some one else has done poor job before you.

          1 - Did all functions of OEM deck worked properly? fader, balance, power on/off...if they everything was well, then it would be safely to assume it was wired in properly, it could be messy, but at least properly. This will rest assure you're will not be dealling with messed up wiring.

          2 - Use the OEM color coding to match the wiring from the car to wires comming from the deck. I beleive the sticky will have the color codes for the wires. In theory, you're dealing with a dozen or so wires, where 8 of them are for speakers, the rest are ground, power source and constant power. Use the installation manual from your deck to help to understand what each wire is for.

          Comment

          • Skunkworks
            E30 Addict
            • Sep 2012
            • 436

            #6
            Read the Sticky, print it. use it for the install. Thank Luke later.

            Comment

            • StereoInstaller1
              GAS
              • Jul 2004
              • 22679

              #7
              Originally posted by darkcolor.666
              Current wiring after pulling out old OEM tape deck


              OK, see how there are 3 bundles? First, there is the bunch attached to the fader. Unplug the fader, you will need the wiring there.

              Second, the bunch that connects to the fader wiring and runs deeper in the dash is you deck harness. You have it VERY easy, you can is one of the easiest E30s there is.

              Use the color guide in the stickied thread, should make it easy for you.

              Oh yeah, that third bundle, the one on the left..well, that ain't radio stuff, you ripped wires and lights out of the heater controls.

              Lemme know if you get stuck, this one is super easy.

              Luke

              Closing SOON!
              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

              Comment

              • darkcolor.666
                Advanced Member
                • Jan 2013
                • 140

                #8
                Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
                OK, see how there are 3 bundles? First, there is the bunch attached to the fader. Unplug the fader, you will need the wiring there.

                Second, the bunch that connects to the fader wiring and runs deeper in the dash is you deck harness. You have it VERY easy, you can is one of the easiest E30s there is.

                Use the color guide in the stickied thread, should make it easy for you.

                Oh yeah, that third bundle, the one on the left..well, that ain't radio stuff, you ripped wires and lights out of the heater controls.

                Lemme know if you get stuck, this one is super easy.

                Luke
                Thanks guys. I was looking at the sticky yesterday and I m starting to understand it. I m confused from the sticky about the 'speaker wires'? The portion that's on the car right of the diagram, which suppose to be wirings in the trunk? I m going to worry about that later.

                As for the new head unit, it comes with a metal frame thing that for securing the headunit to stay in place. Do I install the metal frame to the center console first, then push the head unit in, or do I leave the metal frame on the head unit and push the whole thing into the center console?

                Sorry guys this is my first time, be gentle. :)

                Comment

                • daytonaviolet
                  Member
                  • May 2012
                  • 62

                  #9
                  i've used this guide several times and it's perfect. when you access the amp in the trunk, you just have to connect the Dash Wires to the Speaker Wires in the trunk. this is because you'll be bypassing the oem amp but you'll reuse the wire harness which goes to the specific speakers already wired in the car. :)



                  Obviously, what you do here is simple: connect the "deck" wire to the "dash" wire, then back at the trunk, connect that "dash" wire to the "speaker" wire.

                  This is not rocket surgery, boys. Get it done.



                  Aftermarket-----------Dash Wires-----------Speaker Wires

                  RF+ Grey--------------Blue/Red-------------Grey/White
                  RF- Grey/Black--------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Brown

                  LF+ White------------Yellow/Red------------Grey/Red
                  LF- White/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Violet

                  RR+ Violet------------Blue/Black------------Black/White
                  RR- Violet/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Brown

                  LR+ Green------------Yellow/Black----------Black/Red
                  LR- Green/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Violet


                  (+12V Unswitched) Yellow----Red/Green (Changes to Yellow at C302)

                  (+12V ACC) Red-------------Violet/White (Changes to Voilet/Grey at C302)

                  (Ground) Black---------------Brown (may also be Brown/Black)

                  (ILL) Orange-----------------Grey/Red (Changes to White at C302)

                  (P ANT) Blue-----------------White (this is one of 2 white wires)

                  (AMP REM) Blue/White--------White (this is the one in the same harness as the speakers)


                  Originally posted by darkcolor.666
                  Thanks guys. I was looking at the sticky yesterday and I m starting to understand it. I m confused from the sticky about the 'speaker wires'? The portion that's on the car right of the diagram, which suppose to be wirings in the trunk? I m going to worry about that later.
                  Last edited by daytonaviolet; 04-18-2013, 07:42 AM.

                  Comment

                  • darkcolor.666
                    Advanced Member
                    • Jan 2013
                    • 140

                    #10
                    I m not installing any amps, I m just replacing the head unit, why do I need to do anything in the trunk?


                    Originally posted by daytonaviolet
                    i've used this guide times and it's perfect. when you access the amp in the trunk, you just have to connect the Dash Wires to the Speaker Wires in the trunk. this is because you'll be bypassing the oem amp but you'll reuse the wire harness which goes to the specific speakers already wired in the car. :)



                    Obviously, what you do here is simple: connect the "deck" wire to the "dash" wire, then back at the trunk, connect that "dash" wire to the "speaker" wire.

                    This is not rocket surgery, boys. Get it done.



                    Aftermarket-----------Dash Wires-----------Speaker Wires

                    RF+ Grey--------------Blue/Red-------------Grey/White
                    RF- Grey/Black--------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Brown

                    LF+ White------------Yellow/Red------------Grey/Red
                    LF- White/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Violet

                    RR+ Violet------------Blue/Black------------Black/White
                    RR- Violet/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Brown

                    LR+ Green------------Yellow/Black----------Black/Red
                    LR- Green/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Violet


                    (+12V Unswitched) Yellow----Red/Green (Changes to Yellow at C302)

                    (+12V ACC) Red-------------Violet/White (Changes to Voilet/Grey at C302)

                    (Ground) Black---------------Brown (may also be Brown/Black)

                    (ILL) Orange-----------------Grey/Red (Changes to White at C302)

                    (P ANT) Blue-----------------White (this is one of 2 white wires)

                    (AMP REM) Blue/White--------White (this is the one in the same harness as the speakers)

                    Comment

                    • daytonaviolet
                      Member
                      • May 2012
                      • 62

                      #11
                      Originally posted by darkcolor.666
                      I m not installing any amps, I m just replacing the head unit, why do I need to do anything in the trunk?
                      It's because if you don't rewire your trunk, you'll use the Oem amp in trunk. The diagram bypasses the stock amp but allows you to reuse the wires and connect inputs under dash. Other option is rewire from scratch. You don't want I do that.. Do you?

                      (dam iphone w/ auto word select and spellcheck)
                      Last edited by daytonaviolet; 04-18-2013, 09:48 AM.

                      Comment

                      • darkcolor.666
                        Advanced Member
                        • Jan 2013
                        • 140

                        #12
                        Originally posted by daytonaviolet
                        It's because if you don't rewire your trunk, you'll use the Oem amp in trunk. Those wore diagram bypasses the stock amp but allows you to reuse the wires and connect inputs under dash. Other option is rewire from scratch. You don't want I do that.. Do you?
                        I m confused...

                        Comment

                        • daytonaviolet
                          Member
                          • May 2012
                          • 62

                          #13
                          sorry for the confusion. basically that link explains how to hook up an after market head unit and still utilizing the stock speaker harness. the stock setup from bmw goes like this head unit --> oem amp --> speakers.

                          this instructions explains how to hook up an aftermarket head unit (use the power from the head unit) and also bypass the stock bmw amp.

                          if this is not what your after, then ignore that link above.

                          Originally posted by darkcolor.666
                          I m confused...

                          Comment

                          • darkcolor.666
                            Advanced Member
                            • Jan 2013
                            • 140

                            #14
                            What about my question about the metal frame?

                            Comment

                            • Skunkworks
                              E30 Addict
                              • Sep 2012
                              • 436

                              #15
                              Yes you will use the metal frame, get every thing wired up make sure that it works including your heater control wires that got pulled out and all the bulbs are in and working.

                              Test fit the frame once it fits right push the tabs in to the dash plastic and slide the chassis in. Make sure to get the wires so they are fitting nicely in the hole, click it in and install the metal trim.

                              Comment

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