Reversing a hackjob - RMT 200 DIY - the stereo portion of my E30 M3 restoration

[accident]

Derp, I forgot this was an M3 lol

[CurrusDei]

Reversing a hackjob - the stereo portion of my E30 M3 restoration

Thanks for the replies!

When I went out to the car this morning and turned the key to position one the unit wouldn't turn on. I jumped the switched power to the antenna and it powered up, and made some static from the speakers. So it looks like I'll have to do the jump if I don't want to have to pull the unit out every time I start the car.

This time I entered the code correctly and it beeped then turned to fm (which was static from the front passenger speaker, I figured this was because I don't have the antenna cable in yet). However, when I tried AUX there was no sound until I turned it WAY up and then it was just very faint music that didn't sound like it was coming from any of the speakers, and the front passenger speaker was playing light static in time with the base line.

Does this sound like a issue the amp bypass would solve? I'm probably going to do it regardless but any insight would be helpful.

Also, one thing that differs for my install is the M3 antenna is fixed. It does not telescope - always up.








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[Navarone]

EDIT: I just reread the thread, are you talking about the jumper that "BlackSpeed66" mentioned about the "safe" mode? If you hook up the constant power to a constant power source you shouldn't need a jumper. He mentioned that because he mixed up the constant and switched 12v and it kept forgetting it's settings and going to safe mode. And I found this online...

Perform the steps in exactly the following order:
1. Turn on the Radio. "Safe" will appear in the display.
2. After 3 seconds, the number "1000" will appear in the display.
3. Use the radio station preset buttons 1 to 4 to enter the code number found on your Radio Card. (which was in the first page of Sound manual :-) )
Use preset button 1 to enter the first digit in the code number. Use button 2 to enter the second digit, etc. The value range for each of the 4 digits is "0-9". The digit will increase by 1 each time you tap the preset button. The number returns to "0" after 9".
4. After you finish entering the code, press the right side (">") of the SEEK button for longer than 2 seconds until you hear an audible signal.
5. If you have entered the code number corectly, "LSM" wll appear in the display. (I just was the radio channel indicator and then everything was working as usual).

If you enter the wrong code by mistake:


If you've accidnetally entered a wrong code number, "SAFE" will appear in the display. Initially it'll flash, then stay on.

You can repat the procedure again one time.
(So, 2 attempts then 1 hour locked)
If the wrong code number is entered again, the unit will be disabled for about 1 hour. Leave the unit on and the key in the ignition swithch for this hour.

Your harness looks just fine the way it is. One thing though, if your white wire is wrapped up with the antenna it's for antenna power. If the white wire is wrapped up with the speaker wires it's for the factory amp. If the white wire is from anywhere else it's probably part of the headlight dimmer, going to the OBC or a few hard to mess up spots like fuel door power lock or criuse control stuff at clutch pedal. I see no reason to have the antenna on constant power unless you like parking hella hard with it up. (m3 doesn't get it up?) Some cars have power antenna signal boosters that are not the same as the power antenna motor. VW might be one, my toyota matrix has one. No idea why that would need constant power either.

Constant 12v (red/green factory or yellow aftermarket) will keep the antenna up even when parked and everything off, ignition accessory/run switched would be next best (violet/white factory or red aftermarket), radio remote amp/antenna turn on (white factory or blue or blue/white aftermarket) would be best so it's only up while radio is on. I just did this with a after market head unit that only had 1 remote wire, ie. for a sub, and it would leave the antenna up even when not using the AM/FM tuner. I wired up a switch rear defogger switch and a relay and using constant 12v. If your stereo remote line is only 5v it may not work and you will need a relay.

A safe, permanent jump would be a solder connection with heat shrink or butt connector. I prefer solder and heatshrink, but it's stinky work and harder to do inside a dash.

[accident]

You'll want to wire a relay to push 12V to the antenna. Switched power will work, but with it properly on the antenna remote the antenna will retract when using the CD player or one of the other AUX inputs.

[CurrusDei]

Reversing a hackjob - the stereo portion of my E30 M3 restoration

Update time! Decided to go after the electrical part first. I got a ratcheting crimping tool and some heat shrink connectors (haven't heated them yet). I did a few practice crimps and found that crimping twice gave me a good strong hold.











A couple of the crimps on the harness side show a tiny bit if copper wire inside the connector outside the metal sleeve (less than 1mm) I assume this is ok since they will still be within the heat shrink wrap?

Anyways, I connected the battery back. Drumroll aaaand! Nothing happened. I tinkered around for a bit with it and somehow got the thing to turn on.

First it said 1000, so for some reason I pushed the keys below the 1,0,0,0 and it said 01 SAFE, so I then hit the same keys again, and it is now stuck on 02 SAFE.

I'm thinking I should have hit the button under the 1 until it changed to 8 (the first number of my radio code, I think, 4 digits on a sticker on top of the radio right?) then proceeded from there. I hope I'm not stuck here. I'll try to pull and reconnect the battery tomorrow and see if it goes back to 1000.



This brings me to my question. The jumper wire. Geno you jumped the radio antenna to the switched power. The VW Vortex guys are jumping the antenna to the constant power (yellow cable instead of red).

1) which jump should I make?

2) any advice on how to make a safe, permanent jump? I really don't want to just jam a piece of spare wire into the two slots and fry something... Or be paranoid that my dash is going to catch on fire.

Thanks guys!


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[CurrusDei]

Reversing a hackjob - the stereo portion of my E30 M3 restoration

Getting ready! I think I need to move the mounting face back 4mm




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[CurrusDei]

Thanks, no that's just rip out the trim piece and slap in the deck. I ordered the Metra surrounds you posted from amazon, going to try for a completely flush mount. It sticks out 4mm without modification.


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[StereoInstaller1]

BTW, IMO, that deck looks awesome in that bezel. Is that modded yet?

[StereoInstaller1]

You got it, but use 360-BMW-4840 instead

[CurrusDei]

HAH! OK I think I'm good now. I went on your website and found your phone number. I will call you if I manage to screw this up.

[StereoInstaller1]

the bypass thread says you will find EITHER blue/brown and yellow/brown OR brown/orange...gddammit I wish I could just get your fuckers to call me, this is all so gatdamn easy for me to explain verbally, but I am an old fuck, so typing sucks ass!

[CurrusDei]

Reversing a hackjob - the stereo portion of my E30 M3 restoration

What he said ^



Also, yes, you should only have one white wire for the antenna power.



Let me know if you need a fader switch, I got a spare one.

Thanks, you posted while I was writing my response above. Am i correct in assuming I can just bypass the fader by cutting off the black connector and connecting the wires directly into the harness?

And to keep the thread interesting, pics!

[CurrusDei]

Thanks. There's no way i would have figured that out.

I'm sure its a 20 min job for someone who knows what they're doing (i.e., not me). The first time I did a wheel bearing job on my e30 it took me three weeks working in my spare time and gathering the right tools. The other side took me 3 hours. So, experience definitely plays a role here.

If you could answer a couple questions that i have after reading the bypass thread I think I'll have this to where i can install and then troubleshoot anything from there.

- Based on what I have read, i WILL have the Orange/Brown wires if i unwrap further back on the harness that the fader wires are going into, correct?

- Where do the yellow/brown and blue/brown wires go if they are not the speaker grounds?

- Am i still missing a second white wire or do i not have one because my antenna is fixed on the roof?

Thanks Luke!

[jhaurimn]

What he said ^

Also, yes, you should only have one white wire for the antenna power.

Let me know if you need a fader switch, I got a spare one.

[StereoInstaller1]

OK, first, I am pretty sure your car had a fader. That black plug in this pic is the fader:



So, your install is simple from here, all you need to do is follow the bypass guide.

The speaker wires are all there, this is a 20 minute job.