Well it's finally installed... (RMT200)

[bmwman91]

The beep...I feel ya man. I hate that shit. Based on a JVC HU schematic I have, at least some units have a dedicated BEEP output from the DSP chip. Yup...left, right, sub and BEEP outputs straight to the amp IC. So maybe you have L & R turned down, but apparently the people that designed the HUs thought that that stupid BEEP was important enough to always be loud as fuck.

If you have a connection at a Clarion shop I could definitely use it. No need for the modesty game ("dumb old stereo installer"), it goes without saying that you could blow the ears off of chumps like me! No need to go crazy, I am HOPING that I have enough of a grip on typical HU design that I can just probe out what I need on the RMT200, but if you know someone that can pull a schematic that would be sick.

[StereoInstaller1]

Oh yeah, it beeps at zero volume, why the fuck those bone heads decided it needed to beep when turned all the way down need to get fisted by a Russian powerlifter.

[StereoInstaller1]

Hey man, that's your deal, I am just a dumb old stereo installer... But if you have no luck, hit me up and I will research the hell out of it.

The single biggest suck-a-thon is the beep. If you have an amp powering the mids and highs, it's loud as hell, very irritating.

[bmwman91]

The big bitch is trying to turn down the input of the amp enough to not be completely blown apart with signal level. That E24 M6 we did still has one in his dash and if it didn't just suck when amplified, we would love it. Get me between 2 and 5V RMS out of a decent op-amp and I am happy. Even better if you could convince the subwoofer output to work, there is a pin for the output on the header even.

The BT on this thing does kick ass BTW, its excellent.

Aah OK, so the main issue is that the gain on most aftermarket amps is too high so that one or two clicks of minimum volume blasts the system?

2-5V on a pre-amp / opamp output should be no problem. The DSP chip might even have a sub/low-freq output that just isn't hooked up to other stuff, so I might be able to tap into that.

HOPEFULLY the DSP chip has its original PN on it so I can pull a datasheet. Any chance you have a connection at a certified Blaupunkt repair shop that you could get the schematics/service manual for the RMT200? I actually found the schematics for the CD43 a couple of years ago on some Russian manual website that no longer exists. Is there a sticker on the unit that gives a different / actual Blaupunkt model number?

EDIT:
Looks like it is actually made by Clarion based on some web images.

[StereoInstaller1]

The big bitch is trying to turn down the input of the amp enough to not be completely blown apart with signal level. That E24 M6 we did still has one in his dash and if it didn't just suck when amplified, we would love it. Get me between 2 and 5V RMS out of a decent op-amp and I am happy. Even better if you could convince the subwoofer output to work, there is a pin for the output on the header even.

The BT on this thing does kick ass BTW, its excellent.

[bmwman91]

Look, if you are buying one of these, we got way bigger fish to fry. You ain't got time to be fixing the color, it is close enough...but the lack of pre-amp outputs is simply not acceptable.

No preamp outputs...that is what you need to tackle. The pins are even in the plug and we know it is just some stupid thing Blaupunkt has done to mess up this deck and we need someone like you to fix it.

Hmmmm...so that quad-lock connector housing has some empty terminals that normally have pre-amp outputs in them? I ordered myself an RMT200 earlier and I'll get a good look at the motherboard when it comes. If it is like many OEM units, there is a main DSP chip that also performs the DAC operation, and it outputs a low-power / pre-amp signal to the big power amp IC that drives the speaker outputs. That's how the CD43 is set up too, and I was looking into making a little pre-amp board for it at one point. Just some opamps really. The BIG question with these is about how good the DSP chip's DAC is since that is as far back into the signal chain you can get. From the schematics of aftermarket units with pre-amp outputs I have seen, they just take the DSP chip's DAC output and run it through a volume control IC and some opamps...so quality is still determined by the DAC subsystem on the DSP chip.

If you can hear a clear difference between running the speaker level outputs to an amp and using the pre-amp outputs, then I will take your word for it that the big power amp IC does some crappy stuff to the signal. Anyway, I'll dig around in the RMT200 when it comes. Hopefully it'll be reasonably easy to make a pre-amp output board that sounds good.

And I'm still changing the LEDs lol. This shit is going to be orange dammit! Enough thread hijacking though. I'll start one when I get my unit and start tearing it apart.

[StereoInstaller1]

So I am going to buy one of these and mod the LEDs to 605nm Orange to match the interior. A couple of questions first...

1) Do you have a wiring diagram / pinout table that says which wire is which on the main harness?
2) Can you take a few close-up pictures of the faceplate in daylight / full ambient lighting? I am thinking about ways to paint or de-gloss the chrome and shiny black plastic areas and just want to get some idea of how things are constructed.

Thanks!

Look, if you are buying one of these, we got way bigger fish to fry. You ain't got time to be fixing the color, it is close enough...but the lack of pre-amp outputs is simply not acceptable.

No preamp outputs...that is what you need to tackle. The pins are even in the plug and we know it is just some stupid thing Blaupunkt has done to mess up this deck and we need someone like you to fix it.

[bmwman91]

So I am going to buy one of these and mod the LEDs to 605nm Orange to match the interior. A couple of questions first...

1) Do you have a wiring diagram / pinout table that says which wire is which on the main harness?
2) Can you take a few close-up pictures of the faceplate in daylight / full ambient lighting? I am thinking about ways to paint or de-gloss the chrome and shiny black plastic areas and just want to get some idea of how things are constructed.

Thanks!

[CurrusDei]

Well it's finally installed... (RMT200)

Geno, quick OCD question. Why is your power button crooked?

Edit: Nevermind. Got mine today and the power symbol spins with the volume knob. OCD Overdrive - ENGAGE.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[phenryiv1]

Seeing that so many of you seem to be interested in flush mounting, there is a dirty little secret that I should have shared with Geno.

http://www.amazon.com/Metra-Universa.../dp/B00032C2HO

Depending on how deep you need to go, it can be as easy as cutting off the back mounting lip and either plastic welding or gluing the metra part on.

A great tool for cutting the lip is a body saw: http://www.globalindustrial.com/prod...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

If you use some strips of ABS (or those square bits Geno used) you can space that DIN flange as far as needed. Just cutting off the flange and gluing that new one on only gains you about 3/16", I don't know if its enough for CD43 etc to be perfectly flush, but is is very close.

Good luck and don't forget to post your results!

Luke

THanks for the trim ring tip. I also saw this: http://www.amazon.com/Metra-89-30-09...Q7GG5PGFA4SNT7

For $4 more you get 3 spares (in different sizes) to use for practice in cutting/sanding/painting ABS.

[StereoInstaller1]

Seeing that so many of you seem to be interested in flush mounting, there is a dirty little secret that I should have shared with Geno.

http://www.amazon.com/Metra-Universa.../dp/B00032C2HO

Depending on how deep you need to go, it can be as easy as cutting off the back mounting lip and either plastic welding or gluing the metra part on.

A great tool for cutting the lip is a body saw: http://www.globalindustrial.com/prod...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

If you use some strips of ABS (or those square bits Geno used) you can space that DIN flange as far as needed. Just cutting off the flange and gluing that new one on only gains you about 3/16", I don't know if its enough for CD43 etc to be perfectly flush, but is is very close.

Good luck and don't forget to post your results!

Luke

[StereoInstaller1]

Geno, that looks great!

[ClayW]

Looks great. Please share any fabrication photos.

Any issues with European vs US frequencies?

[BlackSpeed66]

How did the mounting work? I assume that you had to trim the HVAC panel a little bit and work out some sort of attachment at the back of the unit, like the CD43?

Very much like the CD43. You need to grind/sand down the plastic lip that the factory unit sets in. I stumbled upon these supposed "carbon fiber" reinforced square rods for model building at the local HobbyTown. I think I used a combination of 1/8" and 1/4" rods to build up the sides of the HVAC panel to get it to sit flush. The vertical supports need a bit more reinforcing since that is how the headunit "clips" in at the sides. I used a heavy duty superglue to attach the pieces to the HVAC panel

[federal]

I like the flush mount.. And the sub knob is nice too!