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Another thing, the wavy gap directly above the headunit is caused by overtightening the left hand upper trim panel mounting screw. I backed the screw off a few turns and it helped reduce the waviness (didn't totally go away but is much better).
Wish I would have taken more pictures of this, but I didn't. Here goes my attempt at describing this:
First I bought a spare trim panel off of eBay so I could mess around with it without having the car tore up.
I held the new radio in place flush and measured how far back the new lip should be (no idea now what the measurement was, sorry).
I fashioned the new lip out of styrene strip. See your local hobbyshop - the brand name is Evergreen and there are tons of different sizes.
I glued the strips in place with liquid plastic model cement (superglue "glues" stuff together while the model glue actually melts the plastic and "welds" the parts together for a much better hold).
Next I reinforced the joints by placing a line of baking soda (yep - that is what I said) along the joint and soaking it with superthin superglue (again, local hobbyshop - don't use that gel crap from Home Depot, the superglue should be liquid). The superglue will soak right into the baking soda and instantly make a superstrong hardened joint. Test this first on scrap - it happens REAL quick and there is no going back - the stuff hardens like cement! You will probably see a small puff of smoke as the superglue hits the baking soda. Or, use semi-thick superglue and put it on the joint first, then use a straw the pour baking soda onto the joint - again, the superglue will suck in the baking soda.
That is about it, if the fit isn't perfect you can get very thin strips of the Evergreen styrene strips to shim up the lip until the radio sits flush. They can be glued onto the existing strips with plastic model cement.
Don't forget to paint the new lip black before you mount the radio.
Hope this helps!
This info will make it alot easier to get started, thank you so much!
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