phenryiv1 325ic Stereo Install & Interior Thread

[phenryiv1]

Update following the long weekend:

Needed shorter RCA cables for the Alpine amp. The wiring was way too long and the connectors themselves made the HU too deep. Picked up theis shorter set on Amazon last week:



The 90* bend was perfect for the depth needed and the short (~18") length was appropriate.



I still need to secure the HU "cage" but I want to install my Euro clock first and it will be easier to do that without the cage secured to the trim panel.

I also decided to get the amp off of the trunk floor and to mount it to the back wall, where it should stay for a while:



The cabling feeding the amp is a bit long but I will pull it back through the next time I pull the rear seat.

In other interior news, I replaced the kick panel grilles and replaced the sill panels, then finally put in my new convertible floor mats. These are real OEM mats that were NLA but they did another production run. I know that the black & tan theme may not be for everybody but I am working on making it consistent throughout the interior as I refurbish different parts.



I also added my custom cupholder console. I have been holding it for a while but I wanted to get it installed as I get more of the interior done.



This thing is AWESOME. I wish that I had bought a pair of them, just in the event that I ever buy another e30.

I also finally adjusted my driver's side window. I had put this off over and over again and I don't know why. My window had not closed properly and interfered with the convertible top. I had not felt like fooling with it and consequently I left the door panel off of the driver's door, making it a rattle-y and uncomfortable (and unsightly) element of the car. I feel pretty damn silly because after just 10 minutes with a 10mm socket the window closes properly. I have driven about 5-6K with no door panel or armrest...WHY?!?



Anyway, with that fixed I went ahead and installed the door panel. I used some Super77 to reapply the rubber isolator and installed the door panel & armrest.







Semi-interior, semi-exterior:

I had some time to do some more work so I pulled out the beat up weatherstripping from the convertible top boot and POR-15'd the channel, since there was a little surface rust:





In the morning I installed the new stripping:



I still need to paint the boot and to install some trim from my parts car but it looks (and seals) better now.

[papatonymk_e30]

this thread is literally everything ive been looking for. ill be following intently and looking forward to updates as they come. its a shame youre so far from indianapolis.

this might sound stupid, but what does the transducer do?

[rcsoundn1]

it creates the illusion of bass w/o subs. I have never seen one used in person, but i am considering it as an option.

[Codym42]

In what way was your window interfering with the top? Just curious because mine interferes in the back corner. I have to lift the top up and shut the door or crack the windows a bit. It is extremely annoying. If its this easy to fix, I might have to do that this weekend! I've been putting it off for a while.

[phenryiv1]

In what way was your window interfering with the top? Just curious because mine interferes in the back corner. I have to lift the top up and shut the door or crack the windows a bit. It is extremely annoying. If its this easy to fix, I might have to do that this weekend! I've been putting it off for a while.

When I got the car I saw that the driver's side window did not seat properly in the weatherstripping when the door is closed with the top up.





I initially thought that it might be the fault of a broken tension cable but after installing a new top and cables the problem persisted.

Fixing it was easy and took under 30 minutes to do everything. First, I made sure that the door latch alignment was dead-on by supporting the end of the door with a jack and some rubber padding, loosening the 4 nuts at the hinges, and getting the door perfectly aligned. It took about 15 minutes and 6-7 tries.

After that I slacked off for a couple weeks and finally did the window part. I followed this guide:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Adjusting_the_Front_window

Here is the rear, in case you need to do those as well:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Adjusting_Cab_rear_windows

EDIT: Here is my "after" shot of the alignment:

[phenryiv1]

this thread is literally everything ive been looking for. ill be following intently and looking forward to updates as they come. its a shame youre so far from indianapolis.

this might sound stupid, but what does the transducer do?

As noted, they give the impression of sound without actually making sound. They do so by vibrating the seat or structure to which they are attached. They are used in racing/flight simulators, amusement park rides, home theater setups, etc.

I have one of these: http://clarksynthesis.com/clark-synt...d-transducers/

This is actually a pretty good summation:

http://www.baudline.com/erik/bass/tactile_faq.html

These had a run in the 1990s under the brand/model Aura bass Shakers. Miatas and some Hondas (S2000 or Prelude, I can't recall) had very basic/small versions built into the seats. Aura was the commercial brand of the day, however.

I considered the modern model from Aura (or some copycat versions) but the Clark had much better characteristics and overall specifications. Parts Express has several options:

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/tactile-transducers-exciters-bass-shakers/18

I am REALLY happy with it. With the top down, cruising, and powered by a small (100W RMS) amp I can actually FEEL bass that was missing before the install of the TST329. Install was pretty easy and other than the cost (not cheap) I would highly recommend it to anyone with a convertible. I considered a pair of the TST209 models but the majority of the time I am the only occupant in the car when the stereo is on so having one on the passenger side would be a waste so I opted for 1 "better" unit as opposed to 2 "good" units.

[papatonymk_e30]

so essentially, the transducer turns the whole floorpan into a speaker? am i understanding that correctly?

i plan on doing something a bit up off the wall when i get to installing my stereo setup this winter and it sounds like i might want to add a transducer into the mix

[phenryiv1]

so essentially, the transducer turns the whole floorpan into a speaker?

It does not turn it in to a speaker in the sense that a speaker generates audible tones (meaning sounds that can be heard) or sound pressure waves (moving air that can be felt), instead making direct reverberations to surfaces to give the same sensation (in your body) as it would receive if impacted by sound pressure waves.

If the transducer were the only "driver" hooked up to the stereo the only SOUNDS would be incidental audible reverberations of the resonant portions of the floor panels. As the floor is below the carpet you might not hear anything at all but you would FEEL a bass pulse (in your back/butt) just as if there were a subwoofer.

[papatonymk_e30]

butt dyno strikes again!

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

[phenryiv1]

Added "after" shot of window alignment to post # 50.

Next task: Tackle this: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=347887

[papatonymk_e30]

good call on posting the after picture. my vert windows dont line up at all and that's given me the motivation i need to adjust them after work today!

[phenryiv1]

Parking this for later.

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105436

[phenryiv1]

So after a couple thousand miles I have a few observations.

1. The Clarke transducer is awesome. It may be hookey in some people's eyes but at highway cruising speed the "feel" of the bass makes up for a lack of real, actual bass.
2. The E34 mids have loosened up and the midbass is good with the top down, very good with it up. Without the perception of the transducer I think it would still be a bit thin but overall I am very happy with them.
3. Top-up driving with this setup is very enjoyable. Top-down is better than passable but turning it up enough to really enjoy the music still results in it sounding like music- not distorted noise.
4. The OEM tweeters actually keep up with the E34 mids pretty well. I will report back on how the Daytons change the overall impression.
5. Using Pandora as a source is a bad representation of how the stereo can sound. The compression is crap and the tonal quality is very flat...but until I can get the antenna situation figured out I am going with it.

[84driver]

The antenna connector is a Hirschmann and also goes by a couple other obscure names. I have a spare I can send you for $10 shipped if you have enough cable left to use it. Requires soldering.

Stereoinstaller clued me in to the supplier ages ago, I have a thread about it that I need to update...

[phenryiv1]

The antenna connector is a Hirschmann and also goes by a couple other obscure names. I have a spare I can send you for $10 shipped if you have enough cable left to use it. Requires soldering.

Stereoinstaller clued me in to the supplier ages ago, I have a thread about it that I need to update...

I replaced the cable front to back with a new cable. The issue is now with the antenna- either the booster function is not working or the mast is too short...or the tuner section on the HU is bad.

I will try using a longer mast on the setup that I have to see if it improves. It that fails, plan B will be to try a different antenna plugged into the HU with a really short cable. Lastly I will try swapping HUs as a last resort.