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Multimeter used and here are the results. What is the draw that is killing my battery

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    Multimeter used and here are the results. What is the draw that is killing my battery

    I tested the car in four ways.

    First, everything completely connected (complete gauge cluster, SI board, and stock radio). The result was .088

    Second, radio removed (stock radio), complete gauge cluster connected and SI board connected. The result was .082

    Third, complete gauge cluster removed and SI board removed. The result .018

    Fourth, Gauge Cluster connected WITHOUT SI board. The result .023

    If I remove fuse 21 it drops down to 0.05.

    Everything works with my SI board. All gauges, all functions. The only thing that is odd is when my battery dies and I recharge my car, the "Inspection" word lights up, I can however reset it and it goes away, though I believe "Inspection" should not come up due to the car battery dying.

    A few questions please.

    1) Is 0.006 (.088-.082) a normal draw for the stock radio? I just got the stock radio refurbished and I want to make sure it is not drawing too much battery.

    2) Is 0.005 (.023-.018 ) a normal draw for the rest of the gauge cluster with the SI board disconnected?

    3) Most important question. Is 0.065 (0.088-.0.023) the big battery draw that would cause my car battery to completely die after sitting for 2 weeks?

    4) What would a normal draw be for the SI board in perfect working condition? How much increase in drainage from 0.023 would I expect with a perfect working SI board connected?

    5) How long should my battery last with 0.023 plus perfect working SI board connected?
    Last edited by IS300E30; 04-10-2016, 06:03 PM.

    #2
    I don't think there is a list anywhere that someone has compiled of what normal current draw is for different modules. Maybe it's in the factory manual?
    Originally posted by Matt-B
    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

    Comment


      #3
      .088 amp is only 88mA, which is virtually nothing.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
        .088 amp is only 88mA, which is virtually nothing.
        This
        Originally posted by codyep3
        I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
        2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
        1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
        1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
        2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
        2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
        2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
        2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
        2010 F650gs twin
        2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

        Comment


          #5
          I'd suggest taking your car (or just the battery) to any autozone/pepboys place and have them test it. They will do it for free, with a nifty device that will test the battery for internal impeadence, and capacity (I think)

          It might just be your battery.

          I've heard of load draws on e30 form about 70mA to 140mA. To put that in perspective, a little a little led will draw about 20mA at full birghtness - or as little as 2mA.

          I know the stock interior light relay will go bad and draw crazy current. Just FYI.
          Originally posted by Matt-B
          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

          Comment


            #6
            Definitely the old SI board. Prior to installing the new SI board I measured my draw again and with gauge cluster but NO SI board connect it was .021. I then installed the new SI board and it only went up to .028.

            Old SI board = .088

            New SI board = .028

            Now with the new SI board there is a slight odd issue. When I start the car the tachometer needle jumps to its proper spot as if it was spring loaded, it just jumps to the spot. When I turn off the car the tachometer needle goes to its resting stop abruptly as well. When I had the old SI board installed, the tachometer needle went to its correct spot smoothly when I turned on the car, and when I turned off the car it went to its resting spot smoothly as well.

            I reached out to Greg at Bavarian Restoration where I got the new SI board and he mentioned to give it a few days to a week as the batteries may need to top off. Hopefully driving the car a little will correct the tachometer jumping issue. Very glad though that the drainage issue looks to be tied to the old SI board.

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