Raw driver recommendations for DEH-80PRS and SSL EVO2900.5

[digital.aaron]

So I just finished up a standard mode install of my pioneer 80PRS, lukebox with powerbass m1004d, and premium sound speakers. I've done some tuning in standard mode, but I'm seriously considering going with the 80PRS' active crossover mode. (instead of rear, front, sub, the rca outs become high, mid, low). I want to remove the rear speakers completely and focus on my front sound stage.

As I'll be running in Active mode, I won't need components that come with a crossover box. I'm looking into raw drivers, but my experience with them is basically non-existent. I'd like to stick with the stock locations and sizes, but i'm open to other suggestions that don't require much fabrication work.

Has anyone gone active front in an e30?

[digital.aaron]

I mean, are e34 drivers and Dayton tweets the best I'm going to be able to do?

[StereoInstaller1]

I started with just exactly that whe I got my E30 back in 2003. I though, much like several of my other cars, that a solid, fully active front stage only would be good.

I never should have underestimated how different E30s are. I mean, I had done a couple hundred E30s by then, I just didnt expect the midbass to be so thin!

I tried dozens of speakers, nothing had any punch between 80Hz and 200Hz, basically.

What I ended up doing to get a satisfactory front stage only was to use Exile 6.5" components in a "Quasi-aperiodic tapered quarter wave" which was fully active.

So, my recommendation is to try anything you can think of. The space in the kicks panels is so small, its hard to get much impact. If you wanted to get more space, you could try what I will be doing in my next E30, which is to motorize the glove box, so instead of swinging down, it will slide out, so larger kick panels will do just fine.

Lemme know if I can help, it's a tough car to get good sound from

Luke

[KrautnotRice]

I'm also running the Deh-80prs active with just a front stage (and a 15" sub trunk baffle / IB).
Some really good and affordable 5.25" mids are the Silver Flute W14 from Madisound: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co...1/2-wool-cone/
At $20 each you absolutely CANNOT beat them, it baffles me that they're this cheap.
A step up from there would be the SB Acoustics SB15: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co...y-cone-woofer/
They're $53 each and it's what NVX uses in their high end X-series components.

Obviously the factory mids location playing at your ankles isn't ideal.
Whichever mid you choose you'll want to cross over your tweeter as low as possible to raise the sound stage. You'll need a large, robust tweeter to be able to cross it low like 2k hz.
One of the best 'affordable' 1 1/8" tweeters out there is the NVX XSPTW:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68822_NVX-XSPTW.html

It's actually just a rebadged SB Acoustics tweeter but NVX gives you a smaller, easier to mount housing at about the same price anyway.
I know of people crossing this tweeter anywhere between 1.8k (!) and 2.5k, obviously the lower you cross the steeper the slope.
It can really handle the juice as well.
At just over half the price there's this Morel MDT12 tweeter:

http://www.parts-express.com/morel-mdt-12-1-1-8-neodymium-tweeter--277-060

It can be crossed over as low as 2k and has 80w RMS (!).
If I were you and budget is a concern (isn't it always) I'd save on the mids and spend more on the tweeters to raise your sound stage.
As Luke said, without lots of custom work you won't have THAT much mid bass anyway.
I hope this helps. Be sure to share details of your stereo install, you know we like pics! :)