Yeah it seems near impossible to get it out without removing the LCD. I just remove the top and right side faceplate screws though rather than pulling the whole thing off. It can be kinda a pain to get all the plastic bits aligned if you fully remove it, plus you only need to pull the right side out maybe a quarter inch.
Sounds like your allen key method is basically what I do. The sleeve on that connector doesn't actually need to be fully disconnected though, once you pull it up a little, it should be kind of loose, at which point it's fully released and you can use your allen key to pull up on it.
Those 3 are to hold the mounting brackets to the new board. The screws that held them to the cassette assembly are M2.5 I believe. The screw terminals on the new board are 4-40. The 4-40 screws are snug in the bracket holes but go through with the turn of a screwdriver.
Sounds like your allen key method is basically what I do. The sleeve on that connector doesn't actually need to be fully disconnected though, once you pull it up a little, it should be kind of loose, at which point it's fully released and you can use your allen key to pull up on it.
Those 3 are to hold the mounting brackets to the new board. The screws that held them to the cassette assembly are M2.5 I believe. The screw terminals on the new board are 4-40. The 4-40 screws are snug in the bracket holes but go through with the turn of a screwdriver.
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