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    Central locking, lighting, and wiring problems

    The car in question:


    A few months ago I attempted to install the GE remote entry system in my 1988 325is. Central locking was working fine, but the remote would only unlock the car. I gave up for a while but I tried again recently, but something went wrong while I was working on it and my central locking stopped working entirely. I have checked the fuse. My interior lights are also funky, and I'm wondering if the problems are connected. I started digging around behind the kick panel and I have found many loose wires and strange plugs.

    I have been using the wiring diagrams on e30zone to try and clean this up, but I need help from more experienced people.

    This is what I'm dealing with:



    Central Locking
    Nothing happens when I lock or unlock either door or trunk. No clicks or anything. It used to work fine.

    There is evidence of previously installed remote entry systems. The GR/BU wire is interrupted by this large black plug, and I don't know why.




    Interior Light Relay wiring
    The driver door jamb switch doesn't seem to do anything. The interior lights only come on when the passenger door is open, and the trunk light has never worked. I'm not sure if the trunk light wiring is self contained or if it connects to the Interior Light Relay. There is also a second Interior Light Relay up by the steering shaft.

    This strange bundle of wires is hooked into the Relay through the BR/VI wire. The white plug on the right has 3 BR/VI connected to it. One comes from the relay and the other connects to this bundle, while the top runs towards the door jamb switch (pictured further down the page).

    The 4 cut wires include:
    BR/VI that connects to white plug with the relay
    BR/BK that connects to white plug on the left and appears to run with towards the back of the car.
    GR/VI with wire tap
    BRown with wire tap




    This is the BR/BK wire that runs under the carpet and towards the back. (on the left in the last pic)



    This is behind the driver door jamb switch. There is a BR/YL wire connected to the switch, and the wire with the spade connector is GR/VI. It was connected to the second prong on the switch.



    That GR/VI wire gets wrapped up with this BR/VI wire which is plugged into another BR/VI that has the grey/white striped wire that does not connect to anything. The BR/VI connects to the Interior Light Relay.


    Here is the extra relay. It has the same numbers as the Interior Light RelayIt even has a bracket on the back to hook onto the metal triangle with the Central Locking Unit:




    Other wires
    I have no idea what these wires do

    This plug with red wires is coming out of the firewall, but is obviously cut. It does not look factory.



    The flat white plug on the left is not plugged into anything. I can't find anything behind the kick panel that would connect to it


    The small white plug with red/black wire, and the BR/BU wire on the left are loose.



    This is the plug on the far right in the last picture. The wire has been cut.



    I would greatly appreciate any help with this mess!

    #2
    Wish I could help you. I'm eagerly looking for a response as well as I recently pulled the cover down there on my 325 and it's very similar and I want to clean it up.

    Mine is working though. Maybe I should send you photos of that. I could do that this weekend.
    Current - 1991 E30 325i Auto Vert, 2013 F30 335i M-sport, 2014 F25 X3 M-sport
    Past - 1986 E30 325es, 1988 E30 M3, 1991 E34 535i 5sp, 1991 E31 850i 6sp, 1992 E36 325i, 1995 E36 M3, 2000 E46 323i, 2009 E60 535i, 2011 E90 335d

    Comment


      #3
      Interesting. I've had my ge installed for several years and my lock function just recently stopped working last week. Unlock still works and triggers the city lights that i have wired to the lock and unlock functions. Haven't had time to dig in and troubleshoot
      Last edited by kwill22; 06-12-2018, 03:52 AM.
      DENY IGNORANCE!
      Schwarz 325-totaled
      brilliantrot 318i-daily

      Originally posted by mkcman17
      don't think your hamster wheels are fast now. you will still have to give up when trying to pass that V6 odyssey to make your offramp.

      Comment


        #4
        Have you google for the "wire loop" that goes into the door, and then out of the door? I've never had to do it, but some people bypass it and it fixed a lot of issues. That one power wire gives juice to both the central locking relay, and the interior light relay. So....yea...
        Originally posted by Matt-B
        hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

        Comment


          #5
          Yea I've read about it while i was searching the other day. Just waiting for a day off to dig into it
          DENY IGNORANCE!
          Schwarz 325-totaled
          brilliantrot 318i-daily

          Originally posted by mkcman17
          don't think your hamster wheels are fast now. you will still have to give up when trying to pass that V6 odyssey to make your offramp.

          Comment


            #6
            Update for me. Ended up being a broken ground. I'm back working again
            DENY IGNORANCE!
            Schwarz 325-totaled
            brilliantrot 318i-daily

            Originally posted by mkcman17
            don't think your hamster wheels are fast now. you will still have to give up when trying to pass that V6 odyssey to make your offramp.

            Comment


              #7
              Just so that if people search this thread - where was the broken ground?
              Originally posted by Matt-B
              hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

              Comment


                #8
                The ground for the yellow wire coming directly from the control unit connector. I had to remove the pin from the connector, terminate the wire to the pin and i soldered it for some extra reinforcement.

                If you look at the keyless entry control unit it has two ground wires. Yellow wire and Yellow/black. A couple of other ones looked like they were starting to work their way loose and i have mine held in place with Velcro strips so there no tension in the wires
                DENY IGNORANCE!
                Schwarz 325-totaled
                brilliantrot 318i-daily

                Originally posted by mkcman17
                don't think your hamster wheels are fast now. you will still have to give up when trying to pass that V6 odyssey to make your offramp.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by george graves View Post
                  Have you google for the "wire loop" that goes into the door, and then out of the door? I've never had to do it, but some people bypass it and it fixed a lot of issues. That one power wire gives juice to both the central locking relay, and the interior light relay. So....yea...
                  Well I ended up spraying a ton of contact cleaner into the door jamb plug and got my locks working again. Interior lights still don't switch on when I open the drivers door though.

                  I will look into the GE unit too, it is very possible that I had a bad ground.

                  Update:

                  I figured out the interior light door switch by reading this thread: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=95417 I hooked up the BR/VI wire to the switch and now it functions as it should. Turns out the trunk light had a wire disconnected. I plugged it back in and now all my lights work! There are still a few random disconnected plugs but everything seems to work.
                  Last edited by moziller; 07-17-2018, 09:29 PM. Reason: update for future reference

                  Comment

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