Another Keyless entry question...

[Guest]

I installed a keyless entry unit. Simple install. Worked VERY intermittently. Sometimes it would lock, or sometimes unlock. Sometimes work ok lock and unlock for a few minutes. Entire system works 100% correct with the key in any of the doors/trunk.

I did some searching, is it generally necessary depending on the unit or the vehicle to use diodes for the leads going to lock/unlock wires?

Looking to you, Luke, for the correct response. :) (and anybody else of course!)

[O 16581 72452 5]

Did you hook the lead wire to positive? I did that and had the same problem, this must be grounded, it'll say in the instructions to go to positive, but don't listen.

[StereoInstaller1]

Trent, no diodes necessary...but you MUST use relays (haha..yust messin, yO!) You will need 2 diodes (3A or bigger) to isolate your light flash circuits.

The deal is that the vast majority of alarms/keyless units on the market today have 500mA grounding outputs. This is adequate for many cars that use negative switching to trigger the factory door lock relays, but not ours.

Our cars need about 1.2A (or 1200mA if the math scares ya).

E30 door lock wires also "rest" on positive, which pisses off the alarm brain.

You need to use relays, unless they are already onboard. Easy to tell if you have onboard, you will have a minimum of 5 wires for that part of the brain.

Here is a quickie list of what pins are needed to wire up your 2 SPST or SPDT relays:

85= lock or unlock output from alarm (-)
86= 12V
30= ground
87= output of relay to lock/unlock wires of BMW.

Luke

[trent]

Trent, no diodes necessary...but you MUST use relays (haha..yust messin, yO!) You will need 2 diodes (3A or bigger) to isolate your light flash circuits.

The deal is that the vast majority of alarms/keyless units on the market today have 500mA grounding outputs. This is adequate for many cars that use negative switching to trigger the factory door lock relays, but not ours.

Our cars need about 1.2A (or 1200mA if the math scares ya).

E30 door lock wires also "rest" on positive, which pisses off the alarm brain.

You need to use relays, unless they are already onboard. Easy to tell if you have onboard, you will have a minimum of 5 wires for that part of the brain.

Here is a quickie list of what pins are needed to wire up your 2 SPST or SPDT relays:

85= lock or unlock output from alarm (-)
86= 12V
30= ground
87= output of relay to lock/unlock wires of BMW.

Luke

I am not using any lights or Anything. All I have hooked up are the 12V constant, 12V switched, ground, and the unlock/lock wires.

Does this still apply? I do not want anything more. :)

[StereoInstaller1]

Yup. You MUST use relays.

Luke

[trent]

Trent, no diodes necessary...but you MUST use relays (haha..yust messin, yO!) You will need 2 diodes (3A or bigger) to isolate your light flash circuits.

The deal is that the vast majority of alarms/keyless units on the market today have 500mA grounding outputs. This is adequate for many cars that use negative switching to trigger the factory door lock relays, but not ours.

Our cars need about 1.2A (or 1200mA if the math scares ya).

E30 door lock wires also "rest" on positive, which pisses off the alarm brain.

You need to use relays, unless they are already onboard. Easy to tell if you have onboard, you will have a minimum of 5 wires for that part of the brain.

Here is a quickie list of what pins are needed to wire up your 2 SPST or SPDT relays:

85= lock or unlock output from alarm (-)
86= 12V
30= ground
87= output of relay to lock/unlock wires of BMW.

The unit I am using says it can trigger up to 800mA lock if i set it up that way.

Using the relays, do I still need the diodes?

The does the relay do I must ask, provide a higher mA of grounding?

thanks luke, appreciated.

also...what did this mean: "You need to use relays, unless they are already onboard. Easy to tell if you have onboard, you will have a minimum of 5 wires for that part of the brain."

the brain of the unit? It has like 20 wires coming out of it. When i use the key fob to click, I do hear relays clicking internal.

HTH
TTT

I guess I should post what unit I am running. It is an AudioVox Keyless entry unit something sold at the local store.

[O 16581 72452 5]

Just FYI, the lights do not need isolated with diodes, i ran mine no problem wiring them together. I also didn't need a relay for anything...

I just wired what was supposed to be the constant 12v to ground, ran two wires to the central lock relay and it works great.

[trent]

Just FYI, the lights do not need isolated with diodes, i ran mine no problem wiring them together. I also didn't need a relay for anything...

I just wired what was supposed to be the constant 12v to ground, ran two wires to the central lock relay and it works great.

I don't follow you on this. If you run the constant 12v to ground, the only power is applied by a switched power. Therefore, the system will never work since it is never switched on.

[O 16581 72452 5]

Sorry, i was running an alarm and keyless entry, brain farted. I ran the power to the unit and grounded the keyless entry part of the wires that was supposed to get a constant 12v.

[trent]

Sorry, i was running an alarm and keyless entry, brain farted. I ran the power to the unit and grounded the keyless entry part of the wires that was supposed to get a constant 12v.

Yea, I don't think I have that option.

[StereoInstaller1]

Just FYI, the lights do not need isolated with diodes, i ran mine no problem wiring them together.

Well, OK, so yours worked. I have done literally hundreds of BMWs...I highly recommend isolating them. Seems some cars are OK, some lose turn signals. I have never found rhyme or reason why some work fine but most don't. Diodes cost a buck or two, take a minuite or two to add, so I say do it.

Trent, Diodes are needed on light flash ONLY. You can try yours...if the turn signals don't work, or if the DIC freaks out, add diodes.

I just wired what was supposed to be the constant 12v to ground, ran two wires to the central lock relay and it works great.

Obviously, your unit has onboard relays. has about 5 wires labled "Lock" or "Unlock", right?

The wire you speak of is the same as "Pin 30" on my diagram. Since niether of you is posting model numbers, it is all a guessing game.

Trent, the relays you hear clicking on the brain are light flash, more than likely. The 800mA that it puts out is still inadequate...and no relay handles that little power...so you do not have onboard relays.

Do as I describe, you will be done in half an hour.

Luke

[trent]

Trent, the relays you hear clicking on the brain are light flash, more than likely. The 800mA that it puts out is still inadequate...and no relay handles that little power...so you do not have onboard relays.

Do as I describe, you will be done in half an hour.

I will add relays and report back to you. :)

Apreash,
TTT

[golde30]

would clifford alarms have the correct onboard wiring for an e30?

im having one put in soon, and i asked the shop to hook up the alarm directly to each OEM door lock solenoid (ds, ps, trunk, gastank).

i had one aftermarket solenoid hooked up to the drivers side lock before, and it WAS actuating the whole system, until something took a shit, now only the drivers side works(b/c it has an aftermarket solenoid on it).

[O 16581 72452 5]

Well, OK, so yours worked. I have done literally hundreds of BMWs...I highly recommend isolating them. Seems some cars are OK, some lose turn signals. I have never found rhyme or reason why some work fine but most don't. Diodes cost a buck or two, take a minuite or two to add, so I say do it.

Trent, Diodes are needed on light flash ONLY. You can try yours...if the turn signals don't work, or if the DIC freaks out, add diodes.


Obviously, your unit has onboard relays. has about 5 wires labled "Lock" or "Unlock", right?

The wire you speak of is the same as "Pin 30" on my diagram. Since niether of you is posting model numbers, it is all a guessing game.

Trent, the relays you hear clicking on the brain are light flash, more than likely. The 800mA that it puts out is still inadequate...and no relay handles that little power...so you do not have onboard relays.

Do as I describe, you will be done in half an hour.

Luke

Just adding the diode information because i found an older thread that you weren't sure if they were needed, you always added them.

[trent]

Just adding the diode information because i found an older thread that you weren't sure if they were needed, you always added them.

What did you add? That didn't make sense what you said?

huh?