Alright, ill explain this the best i can.
First, i have headers and a custom exhaust set-up, the converter was replaced with 2 "hi-flo" single ones, 6 headers merge to two pipes then an x pipe with the O2 sensor, then two to the cats and muffler.
Iget a recurring O2 check engine light code, 1221 to be exact.
I replaced the O2 sensor with a brand new one. i still get the code/ light.
the actual Check Engine light comes on and off depending on the driving.. WOT, its off of course since the o2 is bypassed at wot., Going uphill it using comes on, or if im travelling at a steady flat speed.
going downhill it usually goes off, and other times its just randomlly on or off.
Second. my Brake Lining light is on, and its a problem too, ive been through it many times, ive hardwired the sensor connectors and spliced torn/ cut areas.
ive fixed more areas that the wire had been damaged, and ive narrowed it down to one thing.
i found that the wire going into the instrument cluster connector plug, is loose. It seems to be pulled away from the bulk of the wires n the harness too, and its loose where it connects to the plug.
so when i accel/deccell or turn or hit bumps, the wire keeps bumping and moving turning on and off the light.
(ive confirmed its the wire, i know the light wold normally be on, but that is the reason it goes on and off. ive checked with the wire in my hand and the key in on but no running. i can turn it on and off while he est ofthe lights are on in the bottom of cluster.)
Now, the problem is that i keep blowing fuse 11 i think, 7.5amp;
when it goes out have no fan blower control (except very faint power when its turned on, like 1/2 half speed.)
and the Tach, Gas / Temp/ econometer are all non working, the obc resets and gets not speed/ mpg type readings.
all the bottom row lights are off and dead. (except when the key is on but not running, the battery and Anti-lock lights are on) This is a recent problem (last night), and it is accompanied by the fact that i always blow the fuse immediately on starting. i used to be able to replace the fuse and have it last another week, now its everytime the car is on.
the lights that can be dimmed, and are used to illuminate the guages, work.
I'm assuming that maybe the wire in the cluster harness conenctor has maybe really shorted this time or something?
Its really being confusing.
I also thought that the two lights both coming on and off would cause the fuse to blow, but i guess its just the shorting effect?
(it drives me nuts driving with two lights going on and off randomly.
Please help me out, and tell me what you think,
sorry it so long
First, i have headers and a custom exhaust set-up, the converter was replaced with 2 "hi-flo" single ones, 6 headers merge to two pipes then an x pipe with the O2 sensor, then two to the cats and muffler.
Iget a recurring O2 check engine light code, 1221 to be exact.
Lambda (O2) Sensor 1 This code is stored when the engine temperature is >70C and the Oxygen Sensor value is out of range or not present. Check the Oxygen Sensor wiring and the operation of the sensor. The value should fluctuate between 0.02 and 0.85V. Slow fluctuation indicates a polluted Oxygen sensor and negative values indicate a damaged sensor. Note: Cars without Catalytic Convertors will incorrectly store this code.
the actual Check Engine light comes on and off depending on the driving.. WOT, its off of course since the o2 is bypassed at wot., Going uphill it using comes on, or if im travelling at a steady flat speed.
going downhill it usually goes off, and other times its just randomlly on or off.
Second. my Brake Lining light is on, and its a problem too, ive been through it many times, ive hardwired the sensor connectors and spliced torn/ cut areas.
ive fixed more areas that the wire had been damaged, and ive narrowed it down to one thing.
i found that the wire going into the instrument cluster connector plug, is loose. It seems to be pulled away from the bulk of the wires n the harness too, and its loose where it connects to the plug.
so when i accel/deccell or turn or hit bumps, the wire keeps bumping and moving turning on and off the light.
(ive confirmed its the wire, i know the light wold normally be on, but that is the reason it goes on and off. ive checked with the wire in my hand and the key in on but no running. i can turn it on and off while he est ofthe lights are on in the bottom of cluster.)
Now, the problem is that i keep blowing fuse 11 i think, 7.5amp;
when it goes out have no fan blower control (except very faint power when its turned on, like 1/2 half speed.)
and the Tach, Gas / Temp/ econometer are all non working, the obc resets and gets not speed/ mpg type readings.
all the bottom row lights are off and dead. (except when the key is on but not running, the battery and Anti-lock lights are on) This is a recent problem (last night), and it is accompanied by the fact that i always blow the fuse immediately on starting. i used to be able to replace the fuse and have it last another week, now its everytime the car is on.
the lights that can be dimmed, and are used to illuminate the guages, work.
I'm assuming that maybe the wire in the cluster harness conenctor has maybe really shorted this time or something?
Its really being confusing.
I also thought that the two lights both coming on and off would cause the fuse to blow, but i guess its just the shorting effect?
(it drives me nuts driving with two lights going on and off randomly.
Please help me out, and tell me what you think,
sorry it so long
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