sound deadening....

[george graves]

My car is still not put back together, and before I do, I was thinking of throwing some sound deadening in.


Here is what I came up with:
(prices are from ebay - looking to get a 100 sq feet kit, and sell what I don't use)
DYNAMAT EXTREAM $3.29 per sq foot
Sound Destroyer $1.30 per sq foot
FAT MAT $1.30 per sq foot
eDead $1.08 per sq foot

I'm looking at edead for the price/sq ft, and it's also thinner, and lighter.

Weight wise, I'd like to keep it to less than 30 pounds.

For thoes of you thinking "NOOOooo don't add weight to a e30!!!!!" I'll let you know that I've personally lost about 30 pounds, so car+driver weight will stay the same!!! plus, with my m30, weight is not an issue(just ask anyone who has ridden with me, TQ and acceleration are a none issue). I can put 100 pounds in the trunk and not notice any difference in acceleration I've deleted my AC, trunk tar, and need something on the inside firewall since the factory sound deadening in the engine bay was diched during my m30 install. I've got a little too much noise from the head and tranny at this point. Also the majority of it will be down low - that's the best place to ever add weight!!!

My goal is doors that go "thuuunnnkkkkk" not "dinggggggzzzzz" and a sound that I hear my intake and exhaust more then my tranny/valves.

I started this thread cause I'm open to advice before I do it....

....

[Mless5]

Replace Dynomat with RAAMAT in your list.
Read this too: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
For doors you will need to cover outer in inner skins, maybe 2 layers each. Make sure there are no loose linkages or power lock parts.

[808BMW]

Brownbread is another alternative

Coming from someone who has done a lot of research into this:
You won't beat edead on price, other than peel n seal from lowes.

Rear shock towers, footwells, firewall, and doors are time well spent.
If you peel up my carpet every inch of my car would look chrome ;)

If your not planning on layering, I really wouldn't bother. 1 layer in loud areas really wont do shit.

[static]

hey, i am in the middle of similar project, have all interior stripped out currently and got a new shipment from RAAMMat tonight. I got 2 rolls of mat and 6yards of Ensolite (foam to cover the mat for even better insulation.)
I am also stripping the driver side floor tar and sanding and covering the whole area with POR15 (to rust proof) then layer the floor with like 3 layers of rammat and perhaps 2 layers on under dash area, firewall and kickpanels (is that too little thickness?)

I am also doing roof (the rear side of the roof is just a bare sheetmetal, just a bit of foam beneath it, i have it all apart), doors, under rear seats, pillars and quarters.

The whole project was started due to a pretty noise ride with S50 inside.

For people who's successfuly done it: any comments on what areas to especially concentrate on (and multilayer) are apreciated. I don't want to weigh down the car too much.

Alex

[318isbmw]

Be really careful w/ por15, I know a friend who even w/ a mask had a reaction from the heavy fumes, and he paints for a living, so he had all the top protection stuff, but not the greatest insulation, basically had a gigantic reaction which I've heard of people gettin hurt really bad from some of those chemicals in por15.
But it is an amazing product once ur done, uncle swears by it and he builds top notch streetrods

[Mtriple]

Ensolite FTW!

My experience has been that the Dynamat Extreme works very well on vertical surfaces because it has great adhesion. I have a couple of boxes of edead that I will be using on the horizontal surfaces and then covered in Ensolite.