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    Quick question about my component's crossover

    I just got a set of components in the mail and i've used a crossover before so this is probably a easy question.

    The crossover has input and outputs for both woofer and tweeter. Do I have to run a line in from amp to both 'woofer in' and 'tweeter in'? I was under the impression there would be one line from amp to crossover and the crossover would split the signal, now with two inputs i'm a little confused.
    1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

    #2
    Which components did you get? Evidently some decent ones b/c they're bi-amplifiable. If you look in the manual it should tell you how to connect them with one input... or it's probably on the crossover itself. I'd suggest using a 4 channel amp with em.
    Originally posted by Gruelius
    and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

    Comment


      #3
      They are Orion's and the manual is pretty vague and thats why I'm asking online. I'd rather not blow my 4 channel amp on the the front speakers, I was hoping to use it for front and rear.
      1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

      Comment


        #4
        Rear speakers in an E30 will make your weiner fall off I am told.

        Is there a switch on the circuit board to change between "Bi-Amp" and "Normal"? If so, set it to normal, then make sure you are using the correct inputs and outputs. Orion is now "Hecho en China" (thanks to the pigfuckers at DEI) so GFL on making sense of that manual.

        Do you understand the difference of using 4 channels to run your seperates? Independent level control is a HUGE improvement...plus your weiner will still be attached. The other advantage is you can use an electronic crossover (crossing over at an appropriate frequency) to just about totally eliminate distortion from the tweeters...seriously clean.

        But I suppose if you don't need your weiner you can do as you please.

        Luke

        Closing SOON!
        "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

        Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

        Thanks for 10 years of fun!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
          Do you understand the difference of using 4 channels to run your seperates? Independent level control is a HUGE improvement...

          Luke

          That would be a big fat no. So you're saying I would be better served just running all 4 channels to the front's? I was hoping to use the other two channels for rear or for a sub, i have a second amp I could use though, so tell me why 4 channels to the front would be good.
          1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

          Comment


            #6
            Sounds like the passive crossovers are bi-ampable. Some home audio speakers are available in the same configuration. Basically it's the highpass and low pass filter components of the passive crossover are wired in a way that gives you ability to connect the tweeter (with it's passive highpass) and woofer (with it's passive low pass [or bandpass]) to it's own amplifier channel. There are a couple benefits to this, but most likely an average person won't notice a difference so you don't absolutely have to run them this way.

            With one channel going to each "driver" or speaker component (tweeter, mid or woofer) you can then adjust the level of power going to tweeter and mid/woofer on it's own. Depending on your particular configuration and available amplifier etc this might give you more headroom and/or clear sound. This is basically almost going the route of all active system, where each amplifie channel drives a dedicated speaker , but in your case you'll retain passive crossovers after the amplifier. In the full active system a passive crossover wouldn't be used, and an active crossover or dsp unit would be after the headunit and before the amplifier. Example, you have a 4x50ch amplifier that can also be used as a 2x100 (bridged into let's say 4ohm), you can wire two channel into each crossover for bi-amping or run the crossovers as usual by connected the "input" sections on the passive crossover together (parallel) and then running only one set of wires to it (1x100) or even 1 of the 4 50watt channels , and use the other 2 in bridged mode to run a sub for example.

            There are so many different ways you could do this, post what amplifier you got and what else you are trying to wire and we'll give you some more suggestions.

            my 2 cents.
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Jean View Post
              There are so many different ways you could do this, post what amplifier you got and what else you are trying to wire and we'll give you some more suggestions.
              I have:
              C43 Headunit
              Diamond audio D5 300.4 Amp
              Orion P5.2 components for the front
              Memphis Encore 5.25 for rear

              I am probably going to take an old 1x12 rockford fosgate sub off a friends hands but i've been dragging my feet because the box its in is huge. I have a second clarion amp that i can use for the sub.

              Any advice would be appreciated I don't know much about car audio.
              1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

              Comment


                #8
                Help!

                Originally posted by Jean View Post
                Sounds like the passive crossovers are bi-ampable. Some home audio speakers are available in the same configuration. Basically it's the highpass and low pass filter components of the passive crossover are wired in a way that gives you ability to connect the tweeter (with it's passive highpass) and woofer (with it's passive low pass [or bandpass]) to it's own amplifier channel. There are a couple benefits to this, but most likely an average person won't notice a difference so you don't absolutely have to run them this way.

                With one channel going to each "driver" or speaker component (tweeter, mid or woofer) you can then adjust the level of power going to tweeter and mid/woofer on it's own. Depending on your particular configuration and available amplifier etc this might give you more headroom and/or clear sound. This is basically almost going the route of all active system, where each amplifie channel drives a dedicated speaker , but in your case you'll retain passive crossovers after the amplifier. In the full active system a passive crossover wouldn't be used, and an active crossover or dsp unit would be after the headunit and before the amplifier. Example, you have a 4x50ch amplifier that can also be used as a 2x100 (bridged into let's say 4ohm), you can wire two channel into each crossover for bi-amping or run the crossovers as usual by connected the "input" sections on the passive crossover together (parallel) and then running only one set of wires to it (1x100) or even 1 of the 4 50watt channels , and use the other 2 in bridged mode to run a sub for example.

                There are so many different ways you could do this, post what amplifier you got and what else you are trying to wire and we'll give you some more suggestions.

                my 2 cents.
                I'm finally installing this weekend, There is a switch on the inside of the crossover for parallel and biwire. I can't for the life of me figure out what the correct way to wire this, the Orion manual and website are both useless.
                1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

                Comment


                  #9
                  Are you going to use the amp to power the rear speakers? If so, set the xover to parallel and just use channel 1 and 2 for the front speakers, and 3 and 4 for the rear.

                  If you're not going to use rear speakers on the amp, just set the xover to biamp and run all 4 channels to the fronts.
                  Originally posted by Gruelius
                  and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by kencopperwheat View Post
                    Are you going to use the amp to power the rear speakers? If so, set the xover to parallel and just use channel 1 and 2 for the front speakers, and 3 and 4 for the rear.

                    If you're not going to use rear speakers on the amp, just set the xover to biamp and run all 4 channels to the fronts.
                    I plan on using the amp to power the rear as well thats why I only want to devote 2 channels to the front components. The problem I am having is that there are 4 speaker wire inputs into the crossover (2 for tweet and 2 for woofer) I can't figure out how to wire the crossover.

                    I've tried just running +/- out or the amp to both woof and then to the tweet inputs but it doesn't seem to split the signal to both the actual woofer and tweeter... does that make sense?
                    1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hey Automatic...post a pic of the terminal strip.

                      I will nail it down for you.

                      Luke

                      Closing SOON!
                      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                      Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                        Hey Automatic...post a pic of the terminal strip.

                        I will nail it down for you.

                        Luke
                        Here's a few pics of the crossover. I want to run one channel in and split to the tweet and woof. You can see the parrallel and biwire switch towards the bottom of the crossover





                        1991 318i (RIP) / 1996 Dakota / 2000 2.5RS

                        Comment


                          #13
                          On the input side, connect the plus to plus, and minus to minus and then to the amp. Basically running the inputs on the crossover side in parallel, it will then split the signal for the highs and lows. You may also want to try reversing the + and - on the tweeter and/or mid to see what results in the best front stage, every car is different and reversing a phase on one speaker can improve or make it worse but it's easy to try...
                          Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                          OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Just to clarify what Jean was saying...try the phase reversal on BOTH front tweeters at the same time...only I personally suggest swapping phase on your midranges instead, if at all.

                            On those Orions, simply connect your speaker wire from the amp to either pair of inputs, then flip that switch to "Paralell"...it (duh...) "paralells" the inputs.

                            Quit complicating things, you make my head hurt!

                            Personally, If I were doing that install, I would run 2 pair of wires from the crossovers all the way back to the amp. Then, if I decided to tri-amp in the future, it would be as simple as rewiring the 4 channel with the wires already there and run a different amp to the rear speakers. You would not have to take the car apart again.

                            Now, get your ass out to that garage and GET IT DONE!

                            good luck,
                            Luke

                            Closing SOON!
                            "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                            Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                            Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Lol I totally missed the switch! :o
                              Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                              OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                              Comment

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