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Speaker Install Thread for my 1989 325i

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    Speaker Install Thread for my 1989 325i

    Only mod so far is a Panasonic CQ-7413U. Standard sound so no amp :( Doesn't matter because something new is going in. Details below and planned system. Should end up great!

    Head Unit - Panasonic CQ-7413U

    Amp - Elemental Designs Nine.4

    Amp Specs:

    RMS Power @ 12.5v : 4 x 65 @ 4 Ohm, 4x 100 @ 2Ohm

    RMS Power (Bridged) @ 12.5v :
    2 x 150 @ 4Ohm

    Speakers: 2 pair of Infinity Kappa 5.25" Coax w/ Pivoting Tweeters - KAPPA52.7I

    Speaker Specs:SPECIFICATIONS
    B]General[/B]
    Power Handling, RMS55 Watts
    Power Handling, Peak165 Watts
    Sensitivity94dB
    Frequency Response55Hz - 25kHz
    Mounting Depth2-1/16"
    Impedance2 Ohms

    For now this is all that is getting installed. Going to run it like this until I decide on the subwoofer :) Going to go ahead and run an additional RCA pair off the head units Subwoofer Preout so I can control that later. I have some older Aluminum Cone Sony Woofers with a 1600W Amp that really really pounds but it has some weight to it :( May use that for the time being though.

    Will update with pictures once installed :)

    #2
    I'm not sure I should step in here, but what the hell... Have you actually bought all the rest of the parts and pieces yet or just the HU? Here is something to think about, mainly because I am playing around with setting up two cars right now and it may not be a bad idea. Jordan, Luke, Jean, or anyone else that knows car audio are welcome to chime in here at any time too...

    I toyed around with running coax rear/component front, coax all around, 5 channel, 6 channel, and whatever else I could think of. It seems for the price of two decent sets of coax you can for maybe just a little more buy one set of really sweet components with matching crossovers. If the amp is good and clean (I don't know Elemental at all) and you are going to add a sub on a seperate amp, buy the components.

    Mount the tweeters in factory pods, the mids down low, and then somewhere the crossovers. Bridge the outputs so you are running two channels - 1 left and 1 right. If the configuration of the crossover network and speakers is how most seem to be, the amp will see it as a 4 ohm impedance and what the amp should handle in bridged configuration (double check first). You get a good amount of power to run the component set and it should be fairly clean and probably louder than you will ever need. It might require stepping up to 6.5" though which may not be something you want to do.

    For me, I have been looking at Diamond's HEX line - the crossover will allow the addition of rear fill if you decide you need it. They have impedance compensation circuitry built in so it won't change the load seen by the amp if you do decide to add rear fill (supposedly). The Diamond crossovers will attenuate the rears by 10 dB which can be desirable. Also, a good crossover will allow you to adjust the tweeter level slightly, or at least most the ones I have seen. A lot of people have found this handy to get rid of some of the "harshness" from some tweeters. Run the high pass on the amps at a low frequency, and let the passive crossovers sort out the rest.

    It is all subjective when it comes down to it. The hardest thing with what I am talking about will probably be running the wiring. There are probably a number of other crossovers that will allow a rear fill to be added - so far I know the Diamonds will and they seem to have a decent reputation. Keeping it simple is a good thing, and this may be just a little more complicated but not much more it seems. I know - it is just another thing to think about and changes things if you decide to do something like this.

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      #3
      It is a 1500 dollar car...

      Spending time to mount 6.5's and wasting time mounting a component set when I just want LOUD slipknot is not worth it hehe

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