Engine block to chassis ground

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    So the guy on the slidewayz (y0!) page is replacing a fucking bas ass groundstrap with a cheezball 4 gauge ground and expects it to be an improvement?

    I don't think so Bob.

    I know my block ground is just fine.

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  • AndrewBird
    replied
    That's what I said.

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  • NC325iC
    replied
    like the hood ground cable i assume

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Originally posted by Rigmaster
    ehh, sort of. ;)

    It's *supposed* to be an insulated wire- sort of a light brown color insulation- though alot of them seem to have lost their insulation over years of exposure to oil and the elements..... It is on the driver's side, towards the front of the oil pan, it attaches to a threaded stud on the frame rail down low.



    Bret
    The one I am thinking of I KNOW is uninsulated. It looks just like the one connecting the hood to the body. Flat and braided.

    Leave a comment:


  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    If your ground wire is fucked up, by all means, replace it. Duh, right? However, they guy who did that page should have used a wire equivalent in quality to BMW, if not better, rather than using cheapass auto parts store junk. In 5 years that wire will be toast, OE stuff will last 20 or more...

    "Big 3" generally refers to the supposed ricer trick of re-grounding the block to make you car run better...these 'tards seem to think it actually is faster with a new motor ground.

    I suppose if you have an 18 gauge body ground, or a chunk of pink 16 ga speaker wire grounding the block, you might be better off using a real ground wire, but the ricers swear that the "big 3" will make the car smoother and faster...I say bullshit.

    Luke

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  • shiboujin
    replied


    ;)

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Oh yeah...and ground your amp at the battery. Only car I would ever recommend that on is a rear battery BMW, but trust me, it helps.

    Luke

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Go get a half-farad cap and install it on your headlights.

    Big 3 won't do shit on our cars...ricer crap only.

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  • soul rebel
    replied
    Originally posted by Addissimo
    if you think thats going to get rid of your whine, good luck.

    :)
    No alternator whine, but all of my lights are pulsing. I think its probably a voltage regulator, but I've had this big 3 kit sitting around forever and it will probably help when I install a larger amplifier.

    For those who don't know, big 3 is upgrading the battery to chassis ground, engine block to chassis ground, and battery to alternator wires with larger gauge wires, for increased electrical flow.

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  • Addissimo
    replied
    if you think thats going to get rid of your whine, good luck.

    :)

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  • whowhatwhere
    replied
    Originally posted by soul rebel
    Where is the engine block to chassis ground located on the 325i? I am doing a big 3 wiring upgrade and I am having trouble locating this wire.

    What is a big 3 wiring upgrade?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rigmaster
    replied
    Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver
    Driver side front. Goes from the chassis to the oil pan I believe. It's a non-insulated flat braided cable.
    ehh, sort of. ;)

    It's *supposed* to be an insulated wire- sort of a light brown color insulation- though alot of them seem to have lost their insulation over years of exposure to oil and the elements..... It is on the driver's side, towards the front of the oil pan, it attaches to a threaded stud on the frame rail down low.



    Bret

    Leave a comment:


  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Driver side front. Goes from the chassis to the oil pan I believe. It's a non-insulated flat braided cable.

    Leave a comment:


  • soul rebel
    started a topic Engine block to chassis ground

    Engine block to chassis ground

    Where is the engine block to chassis ground located on the 325i? I am doing a big 3 wiring upgrade and I am having trouble locating this wire.
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