Newb question to the intermediates and guru..

[mtechnik]

For a very basic set up...

Amp and sub.

Looking into a used Caliber (known as a cheaper brand round here) amplifier rated at 520W RMS(4 channel) and a bass tube rated @ 300W or 500W RMS, haven't decided which yet, that I'll purchase new.

For now I'll just hook the woofer up to the amp only.

Now I'd like to do the "installation" :p myself first.. instead of being lazy.

1. Does this seem to be a workable match?

2. Is hooking up the remote to the head-unit a must??

3. Grounding. How to do this properly in a 325i?

After this amateur set-up i'll move on to bigger and better things right now I just want a little kick and still considering my hearing. :D

thnx
Mtechnik


P.S Go easy on me. !

[StereoInstaller1]

Is the sub a 4 ohm woofer? If so, connect it to half (2 channels) of the 4 channel amp. Run the other 2 channels to the front speakers...done.

You will likely need to run RCAs back to the amp, and if you run the speaker wire, RCAs and remote, do it all up the left side. Power and ground to the battery is a safe bet in an E30.

Now go get cracking!

Luke

[mtechnik]

Yes sub is 4 ohms.

About the front speakers, still in the stock location,... the head-unit I currently have a VDO-Dayton 4X 25W does a pretty good job pushing all 4 speakers.

Have 3-way Pioneer old-schoolers in the rear and new Sony X-Plods 35W rated power (150W max output) up front, but the stock locations sucks ass as we all know.

Would hooking the Sony's up to the amp really really improve somethings? Asking this still because.. they can't seem the handle the bass output from the head unit.

Hence i was thinking of only connecting the sub to the amplifier.

And of course thnx for the quick reply Luke.

[jle30]

I have speaker mounted in the stock location with the addition of a board to trim them out and seal the speaker in place and it sounds great. This did take a bit of work, but what a difference.

[jle30]

The front two channels of the amp should have a high pass crossover which will allow the front speakers to play louder without as much distortion.

[StereoInstaller1]

The front two channels of the amp should have a high pass crossover which will allow the front speakers to play louder without as much distortion.

Bingo. The deck is NOT 25W (they all lie!) it is likely about 12 watts/channel...the real magic is high pass filters.

A speaker that handles 10 watts full range will handle about 100 watts high pass at 100Hz, 12db/oct.

I use much bigger amps on stock Honda and GM speakers all the time.

Luke

[TwoJ's]

A speaker that handles 10 watts full range will handle about 100 watts high pass at 100Hz, 12db/oct.

Is this because of increased current? I've learned that in AC circuits you can have the same voltage (in RMS or peak-to-peak) and increase the current by simply by increasing frequency. I actually did this in lab today with a sinusoidal function generator and an osciliscope.

I'm wondering though, won't this greatly increase the wear on the said speakers? What impedance are stock speakers like that? I imagine if it's high enough, the increased current would generate much more heat. Hell, it will generate much more heat with 10x the factory power.

And what is this high pass filter you speak of? Feature of some amps?

[mtechnik]

thnx all..

[StereoInstaller1]

Is this because of increased current? I've learned that in AC circuits you can have the same voltage (in RMS or peak-to-peak) and increase the current by simply by increasing frequency. I actually did this in lab today with a sinusoidal function generator and an osciliscope.

I'm wondering though, won't this greatly increase the wear on the said speakers? What impedance are stock speakers like that? I imagine if it's high enough, the increased current would generate much more heat. Hell, it will generate much more heat with 10x the factory power.

And what is this high pass filter you speak of? Feature of some amps?

Paralysis by analysis, sir.

Simply enough, bass is where the energy is at. Eliminate the bass, and all of the sudden, a speaker is capable of handling an order of magnitude more power.

Less travel, more power handling...just that simple.

[mtechnik]

Bought the sub today Luke. Went for a 400W bass tube/ bazooka.

BTW made a typing error my deck claims to be 4X 45W

[StereoInstaller1]

Bought the sub today Luke. Went for a 400W bass tube/ bazooka.

BTW made a typing error my deck claims to be 4X 45W

all car audio manufacturers LIE! Still about 12W/CH

[mtechnik]

all car audio manufacturers LIE! Still about 12W/CH

Ahh ok.

The woofer says 400W... what do you expect it to realistically be..?

[StereoInstaller1]

Generally, with the really cheap stuff (not necessarily what you bought) you can move the decimal 1 to the left...

[mtechnik]

oh snap......

[Jean]

Inflated watt ratings FTL!!!

Luke, so if this is true "Less travel, more power handling...just that simple." how come some high end tweeters , ribbons for example don't take much power at all sinec they don't move much at all ?

I am not trying to argue, just picking your brain :) Voice coil will still heat up, even with less travel but with high freq. and high power ;)