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i had a jensen sub (crap) freeze because it was underpowered.... and i had two sets of 5x7's freeze because they were underpowerd
Underpowered? If you had the amp freakin' cranked and it was constantly clipping you could have damaged the voice coils of the speakers. Also, what do you mean by 'freeze'?
underoiwering is bad too.... the coil cools down and the speaker moves throught is travel.... if it is underpowered the sub could over heat and..... stop working
underpower cannot harm a sub at all stop spreading misinformation
underpoering will make it sound like shiy, forcing you to turn up your amp, and make it clip. the distortion from the underpowered amp will fuck over the sub.
Hey guys, keep in mind that the box is the subs' suspension. Box design determines power handling more than almost any other parameter except voice coil size.
If you call the tech department at Rockford (1-800-366-2349) and ask their suggestions (instead of following the crap put out by the marketing department in the instruction manual) I bet they tell you to put it in a large ported box. If you follow their suggestions you will be shocked at the clarity of bass. Port velocity below 8% will give amazing clarity with HUGE boom. I run a single 10" HX2 in 1.5 cubic feet (net, prolly like 1.9 gross) with 2) 4" ports 32" long in my Nova. Gives me less than 4% port velocity, but a freeking habitrail inside my box. Pain in the ass to build...that is why most installers won't do it, and why I charge more. Big fat boom with detail like you won't believe. Does like 127db at 40Hz off of a Punch 100...like 80 watts RMS on a 4 ohm mono load (2 ohms per channel).
As far as the underpowered thing goes...it is all about clipping. Clipping is where the amp is being asked to produce more power than it can, and when it trys, it produces DC voltage (and overheats radically, usually). I could explain more, but go read up on it in a textbook.
ALL cone type speakers (and most other types as well, lets not get into Ionospheres or plasma types here, OK?) are exactly the same thing (and Orion has no specail rules, physics are physics regardless of what some fuckhead salesman says).
A cone type speaker is nothing more nor nothing les than an electric motor attached to a diaphragm. That is all. Fed AC voltage whether music or test tones or plugged into a wall outlet, the motor will twitch. The diaphragm will twitch because it is attached. Physics here, no opinion, just facts. IF the motor is fed DC voltage, it cannot twitch...it simply moves as far as the suspension will allow (or has voltage to drive it) and freezes in place. No motion, no cooling...then all the magic smoke comes out.
The quality of the motor, the quality of the diaphragm, the quality of the suspension are all variables...this is why I am "Brand name agnostic". I don't care what brand name is on it...let me see the parts and I can tell you exactly what to expect.
I have seen great stuff from very unlikely places. Ever hear a Jensen KA series amp? No? Because the big 2 channel is $500 or more and they never sell...but they are fantastic. Far superior to anything in the price range. They are THE biggest company in car audio...they can do what they want!
I have also seen some real crap with expensive brand names attached...just for kicks sometime, attach a 15 foot RCA cable to your Alpines preouts and show me 5 volts of output...yeah right...you will see 1 volt of you are lucky at any frequency. Panasonic will do 2 volts at the end of 50 feet of cable at 20Hz!
I can rant all day about the crap passed out as information in this industry...so much wrong basic information. Most all of everthing is marketing, and those marketing guys aren't working in MY car.
Imma go wash my car now!
Luke
Closing SOON!
"LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW
Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398
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