Question Reguarding Stereo Setup

[FrustratedMunky]

Hey guys,

I've been reading the past threads that other people have posted. I'm planning to go all out Alpine for my car. It seems to me like a lot of people seem to have the single 10" Alpine Type-R going with a mono amp and some 5 1/4" Components in the front and option for the rear (most people seem to just keep the stock premium speakers from BMW and only change the front). I was wondering why people seem to use the single 10" Alpine more than the single 12" Alpine? Also, why do people only change up the front 5 1/4" speakers without changing up the rear speakers? Is the sub size just for preference of music, or what? And I still don't understand how a 6 1/2" speaker would fit in the front, I saw a picture of one setup but it was like... pertruding out of the side mount and I don't know if I want that. Sorry, that's a lot of things there, if anyone can answer any of those questions, people reply, thanks :)

- Chad

[Mystikal]

10" = smaller box, faster response. E30's really, really don't need any more boom than a 10 provides anyways, if you heard it you'd know what I'm talking about. I also much prefer the sound smaller subs provide.

I am one of those who only changed the front components. I'm running 5.25" Alpine Type-R's, getting 75rms/side. Rear speakers really have no place in a car you're setting up for good SQ, it only deteriorates the sound stage. If anything run only the mids, and disconnect the tweeters. This will provide a "warmer" sound in the car. But the vast majority of the time in my car, I only have the fronts faded in.

6.5" mids can fit in the front kicks, but ONLY if they have a small magnet. In general, a magnet on a 6.5" small enough to fit in that spot probably wouldn't have too great of a sound. The Infinity Reference mid will fit, and that's the best it gets. The magnet on my 5.25 Type-R JUST BARELY and I mean BARELY fits in there. Perfect.

Don't worry about asking so many questions, we all started somewhere. ;)

[FrustratedMunky]

10" = smaller box, faster response. E30's really, really don't need any more boom than a 10 provides anyways, if you heard it you'd know what I'm talking about. I also much prefer the sound smaller subs provide.

I am one of those who only changed the front components. I'm running 5.25" Alpine Type-R's, getting 75rms/side. Rear speakers really have no place in a car you're setting up for good SQ, it only deteriorates the sound stage. If anything run only the mids, and disconnect the tweeters. This will provide a "warmer" sound in the car. But the vast majority of the time in my car, I only have the fronts faded in.

6.5" mids can fit in the front kicks, but ONLY if they have a small magnet. In general, a magnet on a 6.5" small enough to fit in that spot probably wouldn't have too great of a sound. The Infinity Reference mid will fit, and that's the best it gets. The magnet on my 5.25 Type-R JUST BARELY and I mean BARELY fits in there. Perfect.

Don't worry about asking so many questions, we all started somewhere. ;)

Heh, thanks man. Why is it that E30's don't need any bigger than a 10" usually? Would a 12" be sort of pointless power for the system? I just don't want my sub to "disappoint me", but I'm guessing as long as I get something like the 10" Type-R, then that should be okay?

Also, about the speakers, so you think I should just get the 5 1/4" Type-R components for the front? Nothing for the rear?

I'm probably going to get the Alpine 10" or 12" Type-R sub, a mono amp (maybe MRP-M350, I have to check out the prices and the power they put out), box enclosure? And then I'll see how much that comes to and if I have the extra cash, I'll get the Alpine 5 1/4" Type-R Components for the front and just install my Alpine CDA-9807.

I also picked up a Black Widow alarm system for $58.00 (CND) from visions the other day :D I'll get that installed at the same time.

I think the big decision for me is to get either the 10" or the 12", I'll have to see the difference at the store, I need to feel it first-hand to really tell for myself I guess?

[trashcop 80s 80s]

The size of sub you want depends on how loud you want it to be. A 10" will not sound tighter than a 12" or 15", this is a myth. If you have the money for a 12 and want something louder then go for it. I wouldn't buy Alpine unless you are paying eBay prices. Alpine is overpriced because of the brand name. Here are some of my favorite brands that you should look at...

Elemental Designs... you can get a 12" K-Series brand new with warranty for the same price as a 12 alpine type R on ebay. Plus the ED-K can handle about 250 more watts than the alpine.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/

Resonant Engineering... http://www.respl.com/flash_index.html

I have 6 1/2 inch Pheonix Gold speakers in front and they fit without a problem. I also have some lower power 6 1/2 Polk Audios in the back. My preference is to have the front stage turned up louder than the rear stage. It just sounds better. If you wanted to buy a pair of good speakers for the front and just leave the stock rear ones, it will sound great if you just turn the fader to put more output on the front speakers and just have the rears for a little fill.

[FrustratedMunky]

Alpine is overpriced because of the brand name. Here are some of my favorite brands that you should look at...

I'm getting employee discount, nearly at cost price.

[trashcop 80s 80s]

I'm getting employee discount, nearly at cost price.

Then go with a 12" type R. It still has low power handling, 300 watts for a 12" with those prices is a rip off, but since your getting a discount then get it. You might be safe with maybe 400 or 450 watts on it, but I wouldn't guarantee it.

Since you work at some type of audio place you should try and see if you can fit 6 1/2 up front because mine fit fine with a huge magnet.

[royalflush313]

10" = smaller box, faster response. E30's really, really don't need any more boom than a 10 provides anyways, if you heard it you'd know what I'm talking about. I also much prefer the sound smaller subs provide.

I am one of those who only changed the front components. I'm running 5.25" Alpine Type-R's, getting 75rms/side. Rear speakers really have no place in a car you're setting up for good SQ, it only deteriorates the sound stage. If anything run only the mids, and disconnect the tweeters. This will provide a "warmer" sound in the car. But the vast majority of the time in my car, I only have the fronts faded in.

6.5" mids can fit in the front kicks, but ONLY if they have a small magnet. In general, a magnet on a 6.5" small enough to fit in that spot probably wouldn't have too great of a sound. The Infinity Reference mid will fit, and that's the best it gets. The magnet on my 5.25 Type-R JUST BARELY and I mean BARELY fits in there. Perfect.

Don't worry about asking so many questions, we all started somewhere. ;)

Heh, thanks man. Why is it that E30's don't need any bigger than a 10" usually? Would a 12" be sort of pointless power for the system? I just don't want my sub to "disappoint me", but I'm guessing as long as I get something like the 10" Type-R, then that should be okay?

Also, about the speakers, so you think I should just get the 5 1/4" Type-R components for the front? Nothing for the rear?

I'm probably going to get the Alpine 10" or 12" Type-R sub, a mono amp (maybe MRP-M350, I have to check out the prices and the power they put out), box enclosure? And then I'll see how much that comes to and if I have the extra cash, I'll get the Alpine 5 1/4" Type-R Components for the front and just install my Alpine CDA-9807.

I also picked up a Black Widow alarm system for $58.00 (CND) from visions the other day :D I'll get that installed at the same time.

I think the big decision for me is to get either the 10" or the 12", I'll have to see the difference at the store, I need to feel it first-hand to really tell for myself I guess?

IMO, aftermarket components are useless unless you are going to power them with a separate amp. Decks wont provide enough juice that the decks would like to sound as its suppose to. It may still be an improvement from the stock setup, but if you are going to invest in that much audio gear, you should splurge for a bigger amp that can power your single sub and your front components. And maybe even get rear-fillers too.

Oh and if you goto any good audio shop, they will be able to do the wiring in your car first and let you hear different sub/amp setups. That's how I picked my subs on my old car.

just my 2 cents.

[FrustratedMunky]

Thanks guys for all the replies.

Quick question, why is it that... I forget who, but someone said that it's better to only get aftermarket front speakers? I think he sort of made it sound like replacing the stock rear speakers were unnecessary, is that true?

[KenC]

Thanks guys for all the replies.

Quick question, why is it that... I forget who, but someone said that it's better to only get aftermarket front speakers? I think he sort of made it sound like replacing the stock rear speakers were unnecessary, is that true?

Nearly all, if not all, competition vehicles (sound quality competition) have no rear speakers. It messes up the imaging and staging of the speakers. If you do have rear speakers, you usually want the gains on the amp no more than half the value of the gains for the front speakers.

[FrustratedMunky]

Nearly all, if not all, competition vehicles (sound quality competition) have no rear speakers. It messes up the imaging and staging of the speakers. If you do have rear speakers, you usually want the gains on the amp no more than half the value of the gains for the front speakers.

Okay, I somewhat understand... sorry, I'm kinda a noob at this, what do you mean by gains? Like the amount of output the fronts are putting out compared to the rears? Doesn't that mean I can just adjust the fader?

Right now, I'm sort of going about two plans that I could do.

Considering there may be lots of maintenance costs and I don't have a huge income right now since I'm going to school. Anyways, I might go get a mono amp, 12" sub and enclosure with front speakers. The other, cheaper way of doing things, would just be to have my deck and replace the speakers. If I'm not going to have a sub and amp right now, should I still... NOT get the rear speakers? Or should I still only replace the front speakers? I'm a little confused because even if I only replace the front speakers, my rears will still be putting out sound, but they just won't be as high quality as my front speakers... so... any suggestions?

[KenC]

Nearly all, if not all, competition vehicles (sound quality competition) have no rear speakers. It messes up the imaging and staging of the speakers. If you do have rear speakers, you usually want the gains on the amp no more than half the value of the gains for the front speakers.

Okay, I somewhat understand... sorry, I'm kinda a noob at this, what do you mean by gains? Like the amount of output the fronts are putting out compared to the rears? Doesn't that mean I can just adjust the fader?

Right now, I'm sort of going about two plans that I could do.

Considering there may be lots of maintenance costs and I don't have a huge income right now since I'm going to school. Anyways, I might go get a mono amp, 12" sub and enclosure with front speakers. The other, cheaper way of doing things, would just be to have my deck and replace the speakers. If I'm not going to have a sub and amp right now, should I still... NOT get the rear speakers? Or should I still only replace the front speakers? I'm a little confused because even if I only replace the front speakers, my rears will still be putting out sound, but they just won't be as high quality as my front speakers... so... any suggestions?

The 'gain' is the amount of wattage to each channel in a nutshell.

If you're only going to do one thing, get a mono amp and a sub. The low end of stock stereos is terrible. After you add the sub and amp, buy a nice pair of components for the front. Then get an amp to power the components. Then you might possibly think about adding some rear speakers.

[FrustratedMunky]

If you're only going to do one thing, get a mono amp and a sub. The low end of stock stereos is terrible. After you add the sub and amp, buy a nice pair of components for the front. Then get an amp to power the components. Then you might possibly think about adding some rear speakers.

Oh OK... I was actually sort of going to do it opposite to that... I was going to get the front 5 1/4" components and let the deck power them for now and then after I save up a bunch ill add the amp and sub in the back because I'd rather have better sounding music for the first little while before the second step rather than having shit speakers and sub and amp to go with the shit speakers?

[KenC]

It doesn't really matter which route you go. Although I'd get an external power amplifier if you're going components. Even the best of the internal amps aren't very good. They claim great power, but usually put out measly numbers with tons 'o THD and signal noise.

[FrustratedMunky]

It doesn't really matter which route you go. Although I'd get an external power amplifier if you're going components. Even the best of the internal amps aren't very good. They claim great power, but usually put out measly numbers with tons 'o THD and signal noise.

You mean to get a seperate amp for the components instead of powering it by the deck, right?

[royalflush313]

If you're only going to do one thing, get a mono amp and a sub. The low end of stock stereos is terrible. After you add the sub and amp, buy a nice pair of components for the front. Then get an amp to power the components. Then you might possibly think about adding some rear speakers.

Oh OK... I was actually sort of going to do it opposite to that... I was going to get the front 5 1/4" components and let the deck power them for now and then after I save up a bunch ill add the amp and sub in the back because I'd rather have better sounding music for the first little while before the second step rather than having shit speakers and sub and amp to go with the shit speakers?

hey, like i wrote before, I dont think you should bother powering aftermarket components with an aftermarket deck. If you wanna go slow, you could just get an amp and a sub first.
But make sure you buy an amp that can also power your speakers for later on, unless you are planning on using two amps. You can always tap into the rear speakers, with a level line converter, and use your stock deck to power your aftermarket sub/amp.

Once you have more money, you can invest in a good deck, and front components. For the rear, you should probably just get midbass fillers. This time around, if you already have an amp that can power your speakers, all you have to do is get rid of the line level converter, use the rcas on your new deck, power everything off 1 amp. I'm looking a good deck myself right now, that is simple, without an internal amp, and has a high output level. ( and the deck has to be black, and have a orange/amber illumination :evil: haha)


Or if u dont really care about having the bass right now, get a good deck, good amp, front components and rear fillers, and wait till you have extra cash to spend on a nice sub setup..... this is what im looking forward to doing, after doing some stuff and lowering the car and stuff :)


Either way, if you want a good setup, it costs a lot of $$$. If you aren't that serious, you should just get a deck, sub and amp, and use your stock speakers. There is probably a way to use your stock amp (someoen mustve figured out the wiring by now...) to power the stock speakers, with an aftermarket deck. Although I dont know how beneficial that would be, compared to powering stock speakers using an aftermarket deck.