Running 14g speaker wire.

[Tree18is]

Question: 1
When running speaker wire is it best to.

1. run them on separate sides of vehicle in order to not have any interference .
2. run them on the same side because it doesn't matter.

Question:2
Also. from a 14 gauge wire to what looks like a 20guage (stock adapter) wires, what is the best way to join them up? (shown orange and white to speaker wire)



Thanks alot guys, and ill ask the power antenna wire question later.
thanks again.

[jht3]

i ran my speaker wire pairs down each side. rca's down the tranny tunnel, then over to the drivers side

as for joining the wires the easiest way, strip them back, twist together, then crimp on one of those clear domed connectors (i dont know what they're called but you can find them at radioshack)

if you want an inline approach and have a soldering gun, you can slip on a piece of shrink wrap, twist them together inline, and add a little solder

[Tree18is]

awesome. I probably wont got the solder route. but I will do the other.
is it neccsary to run new speaker wire in order to get the most out of your new head unit and speakers? or is factory good enough. As I read im seeing alot of people leaving there stock rear wiring and just running new front wire.

[SamE30e]

i ran my speaker wire pairs down each side. rca's down the tranny tunnel, then over to the drivers side

as for joining the wires the easiest way, strip them back, twist together, then crimp on one of those clear domed connectors (i dont know what they're called but you can find them at radioshack)

if you want an inline approach and have a soldering gun, you can slip on a piece of shrink wrap, twist them together inline, and add a little solder

Thats a horrible way to connect it!

Man, goto canadian tire, or radio shack or wherever and get some heat shrink.

Strip them back, twist and heat shrink! works wicked.

[AndrewBird]

I suggest butt connectors with shrink wrap already on them and a GOOD pair of crimpers. These are the connectors I am talking about:



Your local auto parts store should have them. Basically, crimp them, then hit them with a heat gun or a lighter to shrink the tubing down. Most have a heat activated glue on the inside to seal even further. A bit overkill on interior wiring, but they are cheap and a might -as-well kind of thing.

[Tree18is]

really twist and heat shrink? Im a big fan of the head shrink, its a good think I didnt Document my hid ballast install because there was a half a bag right there.

thats the route I will probably go, I HATE when but connectors fall out or rattle loose, but I will check for those self glueing and heat shrink enabled ones. Ive only seen those in Government and State vehicle outfitting stations supposedly 75 cents a piece.
thanks guys.

[AndrewBird]

A good pair of crimps will crimp a connector to the point it will NEVER come apart. Connections like this are actually better in automotive applications then solder joints are.

[StereoInstaller1]

The main reason NOT to solder is this: Flux will "wick" inside the wire and corrode the last inch or three. This is exactly why no auto manufacturer uses solder in their electrical systems.

A decent set of crimpers are a lifetime investment. My recommendation is Channel Lock brand "Wiring Pliers", available at Home Depot or other such stores (Lowes, etc) for just under $20. Try and find Thomas and Betts or 3M butt connectors, they are the absolute best "bang for the buck", and try to find "seamless" connectors if you can.

Why 14 gauge wire? It is massive overkill for midrange and highs, and will have higher resistance than something smaller, like 16ga. The result is cleaner highs and better midrange. Not like there is a huge difference, but smaller is better.

The stock wire is absolutely fantastic quality, use it where and when you can if it is in good shape.

Try to run no signal on the right side of the car at all, that is where the main battery cable is, so it is the most likely to cause interference. Also, do not put crossovers near the ECU, as they are likely to pick up noise.

Hope this helps.

Luke

[StereoInstaller1]

A quick add: try to follow the factory routing as best you can. Least noise, less chance of abrasion/damage to the wire.

[clavinZERO]

Whoops, and my crossovers are in my glove box, bad Clay, bad!

[StereoInstaller1]

Whoops, and my crossovers are in my glove box, bad Clay, bad!

Got noise? If so, try moving them. If not, fuck it!

[Raxe]

I ran my 14 gauge, 18 gauge and RCA's down the center tunnel, then branched them left and right behind the dash. Crossovers are in the trunk with the amp. Seems to work pretty great to me.

[StereoInstaller1]

It is just fine to run them down the center of the car, I only recommend against it because of wire abrasion.

Generally, if you pull out wires that have been in a car for 10 years or so, the ones under the carpet are nastier than the ones ran in the factory wire tracks.

[BBY1104]

to the OP, I found some butt connectors that neck the size down for connecting 2 small wires and 1 together or one larger wire to a small one. I used them for my blinking side markers