Do i need an equalizer???

[brn2ply7]

I am not a complete audio nube...but by the same token i don't know too much other than what i research in depth.

Anyways Heres what i have gentlemen:
-cd5000 head unit
-PPi 4200ma
-CDT HD-62 Component Speakers (installed into pods ported into door shells)
-CDT crossovers that came with the components
OR
-JL XR Crossovers (seem much more tunable)

-I think because my PPi amp has no filters that too low of frequencys will be pushed through the components and distort them. I have herd though that people tune the HD-62s down in the 60-80 range....
-I also have two tens in a sealed box in the trunk being pushed by an old kenwood amp approx 360rms i believe, so i cant just tune out the low end frequencies with the head unit.

---------Do i need an external equalizer....or something else??? If so what would yal suggest????? --------

Thanks for any Help!

[archemedes]

crossovers are what will keep the low frequencies from the comps. An eq for the most part is just a booster to fix dips in sound

[Rogan]

crossovers are what will keep the low frequencies from the comps. An eq for the most part is just a booster to fix dips in sound

a/k/a "crutch" :), but just my opinion.. does the HU have sub-out RCAs? If so, dial back the low ends in the head unit (iow, don't run loudness, and lows at a +4..) then use the sub amp's settings to raise the lowe end back up where you want it..
I've noticed that in my e30 coupe, the single 10 on 140wRMS is sad... UNLESS, I pop the trunk open. The trunk area is so sealed off from the pass. compartment, that no compression is making it's way up front.. Popping a couple of 4" holes in the back deck tray (below the carpeted cover) made a world of difference, allowing the sub 120Hz notes to pass through..

I run (on my deh-7600MP) the loudness on low, the low-range on a 0 or +1, and it's just fine. Oh, I'm running the OE 4 speakers off head unit power (est. 40wX4 PkPk), no xovers, nada.. It's definitely not concert-quality, but it does a fine job, for what I'm using..

[brn2ply7]

Are there any specific (brand/model)external cross-overs ,since my amp does not have one, you guys maybe have used that would play clean??

[archemedes]

I build my own passive ones usually, but I also love my old rodek (zed audio is great)

[StereoInstaller1]

Tom, go into your owners manual.

Find the settings of "High Pass Filters" (as others have said)

If you have 18db/oct or higher, set your high pass to 100Hz.

if under 18db/oct, set to 120Hz.

If you want your car to play louder, safely, set the crossover point higher.

Set the "Low Pass" on the bass to about 80Hz.

See whatcha think.

Luke

[brn2ply7]

would it sound better if i got an active crossover and ran the amp in 4x50 mode or would it be better to run passive 2x200 and just push it through the passive crossovers and let them split the power

[StereoInstaller1]

Yeah, you could run an aftermarket crossover, and it will sound better and be more adjustable than your deck...but you would use the same setup.

You are currently running 4 channels to your front and rear speakers. 4 channels = 4 speakers, so if you wanted to use a 4 channel amp to run the front speakers, you would need at least 2 more channels to run the rear. The sound is dramatically better, but WAY more hassle and money and space.

You could also drop the rear speakers altogether, which is how I run, then the added crossover would really come into play.

The passive crossovers that came with your speakers are a necessity to use if you stay with the current 4 channel 4 speaker setup. Even with the added crossover, you should still use something for tweeter protection.

So, turn the crossovers on in your deck. You already have them and they will make a huge difference.

Luke

[brn2ply7]

I am not running rear speakers in my car....Do you think that running 50rms to the woofers and 50rms to the tweeters will be enough for the speakers in an active setup. I don't want to lose any midbase by not having the amp bridged as apposed to putting out 200rms to each passive crossover in a passive set up.

[StereoInstaller1]

Post a pic of each of your crossovers for the component speakers

[einstein57]

Luke speaks the truth. Unless you have an insanely exspensive and elaborate hu an eq will make a world of difference. Even with stock speakers the difference is night and day.

[brn2ply7]

I will go ahead and get pictures hopefully tonight of my crossovers

[brn2ply7]

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components_pages.php?page_id=102

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3481

my camera does not seem to want to cooperate, but these are the two pairs of passive crossovers that i have...

[StereoInstaller1]

OK, so see how the JL crossovers have a"Bi-Wire" input? That means you can use all 4 channels to run your front seperates...as in true "tri-amp", with or without an additional electronic crossover.

You would run the front 2 channels to the tweeters and the rear 2 channels to the midranges.

If you decide to run an additional electronic crossover, you need to match the slope and frequency of those passive crossovers pretty closely.

[brn2ply7]

OK thanks...now one last question...
The ppi amp pushes 2x200rms bridged or 4x50rms.
Do you think it would sound better with the 200rms or with two seperate 50rms channels. I have to believe that they are pretty power hungry woofers (130rms). I am just worried that i am going to loose mid base by running less watts through the components, but i a some what newb to car audio so what do i know.Any further information would be greatly appreciated.