OK how about a trunk rattler firing up at some holes?

[robspeed325i]

at some grilled openings in the package shelf. I really like the sound of the rear stock "premium" speakers so i will probably bassblock and box them somehow, and fire the subs up at a pair of holes in the package shelf i can put grilles over, or a single long hole with a bigger grille. im trying to do a budget job basically, i can get a premade .75" dual-10 box for about $50 off ebay including shipping, which basically makes the box free. Id make my own but I dont have a place to do it where I am staying.

I was thinking of firing at the backs of the seats but something tells me the thick buffalo leather will kill most of the sound...

this is going to be twin infinity reference 10"s on about 370w total. i might up the power later but right now i just have a PPI 2125 from WAY BACK in the oldskool, i mean way back when PPIs were black... probably one of the first ones they made in terms of model. bridged it puts out 370...

[ldsbeaker]

you should search "subwoofer" threads by StereoInstaller

[robspeed325i]

I have actually done that, and read many of his posts, and he understandably favors his sealed-into-cabin approach. Im just wondering about others' experiences doing it the less-better brute-force approach as I described. I am on an extremely tight budget and just want some bottom end. I dont have a spot to build one myself at the moment (i could assemble it, but can't make a big mess sawing.)

Shipping included, Ebay boxes are 1/3 his V2s at the group buy rate, and 1/5th the cost at his normal rate (with shipping not included). Not ideal, but decent enough for a hand-grenade approach? Last system I put in a car was a single 12" in a 3.5cu.ft. heavily-braced fiber-filled custom cabinet, and was shocked at how little bass made it into the cabin when i had the woofer facing the rear. That was an "audiophile" box for sure, based on its size and shape/bracing, fill, etc. So I capped the flat side, and cut a hole for the woofer in the angled side and fired the sub through the ski passthrough and it made a huge difference. That car did not have any parcel-shelf vents and huge/thick leather seats, so firing it directly into the cabin was basically mandatory. By the way it sounded AWESOME, massive low-end rumble the way I like it.

So I repeat the question, with vents in the parcel shelf, and even the passthrough knocked out and the armrest down, can i expect a decent bottom with say two tens in a 1.5-3cuft box? I will be able to point the subs backwards, up, or towards the seat back...

[ldsbeaker]

I'm a noob to the higher end stereo applications, so maybe I'm not getting the difference between what you want, and what he offers. I thought his were vented through the parcel shelf. I guess you could get something cheaper on ebay, but he's making stuff specifically for the E30...
I thought it was a decent price for custom fit. I guess once you make a couple it doesn't seem as "custom", but I was impressed.
Can you explain to me how what you want is different? Is it just how the sub is oriented in the box? Maybe post an ebay auction of a box you would get.

p.s. Your website is touching.

[robspeed325i]

well the difference is his ports run directly into the cabin via cardboard tubes, and he seals the woofer itself against the ski passthrough hole, so all of the energy goes directly into the cabin. i would be using just holes cut in the parcel shelf, with a sealed box in the trunk blasting away and some of the sound going through my holes (covered with grilles or something). The difference would be throwing a tear gas canister into the room next to you and wait for it to waft in through the open doorway, vs. dropping it into the a/c system and pumping it in via the hvac ducts.

ps. thanks about the website... =)

[StereoInstaller1]

Here is the basics of the deal.

Bass is energy, and we all know energy follows the path of least resistance.

By forcing ALL of the energy into the cabin, far greater energy is retained.

None is used to rattle the trunk, none is used to rattle the outside of the car, etc.

By doing it the way I build, it seems most logical to me.

It seems to be the most sound for the least power, the least weight, the least space.

IMO, this is the way to fly.

Also, if I cannot build 6 or so at a time, I cannot afford to do them! In my shop, I would charge about $350 to do one, so the $150 I have been charging is way to cheap.

Luke

[Red88]

I'll build you a box for the price of wood and shipping. I need something to do in woodshop.

BTW, I've built boxes before, if you give me measurements of your trunk and what you plan on using, I'll send you some shapes I can make.

[robspeed325i]

!

I'll build you a box for the price of wood and shipping. I need something to do in woodshop.

BTW, I've built boxes before, if you give me measurements of your trunk and what you plan on using, I'll send you some shapes I can make.

Let me figure out the dimensions for a single 12" sealed box that will fire through the ski hole... =) Luke's efficient vented idea is tempting but i have always preferred the sound of sealed bass...

Would you be able to ship it disassembled? I am guessing shipping fees would be far cheaper that way... Id worry the corners might get banged up but if wrapped in enough cardboard, it should be OK. I'll PM you. :)