Installing Amp questions? inputs, mounting etc

[NOMAD]

Audio newbie here and i'm getting ready to do the install on the E30.
Couple questions for my 4ch amp that will power my front components and one rear sub.

1. Are RCA cables better than Speaker level inputs if the amp is made to take speaker levels? I could pull the wires from the rear speakers directly to the amp.

2. What's a good way to mount my amp? I was thinking of screwing it directly to the rear seat sheetmetal in the trunk. Bad idea?
I suppose I could mount it on the back of the sub box and then i can unplug and pull it all out if needed?

3. What's a good (not super expensive) way to connect the power cable to the battery? Extra terminal?

4. I read a lot about amping the fronts and deleting the rear speakers. I suppose i'll try it out first, but would removing the speakers also allow for more bass to get into the cabin?

[kronus]

1 - the less preamp stages your sound goes through, the better. Go RCA.

2 - if you do that, get rubber standoffs. Otherwise, I don't see a problem with that method. It won't be the cleanest, but it will work.

3 - Not sure, but I've seen it done where the installer drilled a small hole in the battery cable's end clamp thing, put a loop on the end of the power cable, and screwed it into the hole.

4 - the only way for more bass to get into the cabin if you remove the rear speakers is if you port your sub out through those speaker holes. You'd have to cut parts of your rear deck, and make a custom sub box that has the proper volume and porting to fire up through those holes. (it then reflects off the rear glass into the rest of the cabin)

[smonkbmw]

1.Rcas are much better. assuming youre running a aftermarket deck, they will sound better. the deck outputs a higher voltage signal into the amp, thereby sounding better.

2. in my wifes car its mounted to the underside of the package shelf. on the back of the sheet metal the rear seat rests on works also. keep in mind if it goes on the speaker box its that much easier to steal all your stuff at once!

3. to do it properly use a flat connector. unthread the nut off the positive terminal, slip on the new connector and put the nut back on. if you want to get crafty use the negative on the battery for your ground also as opposed to drilling into the sheet metal anywhere.

4. amp the fronts and run the rears off deck power for fill. what year car do you have? if its later than 86 i believe you should have a plate that you can pop out. its originally used for a ski boot pass through, but youll get just as much sound this way as removing rear speakers. contact StereoInstaller, he made a sick box for me that isnt ported. or he can make his special ported box kit. actually if you search using his SN you can see them, they are posted on here somewhere.

[NOMAD]

yeah, i'm referring to stuff he's posted before, and yes, i popped out the ski pass plate in anticipation of getting it all installed. I'll remove some foam from the center of the seat, just a bit to try and help as well.

I hadn't thought of installing the amp under the rear deck upside down, i'll take a look and see.

Rubber standoffs? I assume i can get any of the rubber bits from home depot to make an isolation for rattles? or are you referring to specific parts I need to get.

[der affe]

something like these mounts would work great and space it down off of the panel just a bit

http://www.empius.com/2009_catalog/empi2009_pg35.html

[StereoInstaller1]

DON'T mount it upside down.

If you want to mount it under the rear deck, mount it upside right, so the heat can dissipate.

Use metal tubing (as a spacer) and long screws to mount it.

Luke

[NOMAD]

I've got some nice thick power steering hose I think I'll use as a spacer and get the best of both worlds. I think this way I could even keep the stock hardboard on the rear of the trunk to keep it looking normal in there.