EFI to carb wiring.

[totheredline]

Ended up using a thinned out 325e wiring harness and an aftermarket tach and water temp gauge in the stock location. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be

[jalopi]

gotcha, i see what it's for now.

i don't know what your dad's reasoning was for telling you to stay away from the 5.0 swap, but count yourself lucky for his good advice - e30s are garbage for v8 swaps IMO.

sure, they're VERY fun, but there's just so many compromises... brakes, cooling, clutch hydraulics (for the ford swaps, not an issue with chevy/bmw), drivetrain parts breaking, can't fit enough tire for the torque, the front sump, the shitty exhaust options... i'm sure there's other stuff i'm forgetting too

point is, if you want a v8 3 series you've gotta step up to a e36/46. if i had to start from scratch with my old car again, knowing what i do now, it would've been m30 all the way

[totheredline]

Oh and I'm gonna post some videos up for sure. And kind of a summarized build thread once I get it driving. It should sound awesome.

What's funny is I was originally gonna put a carbed 5.0 in my car but my dad convinced me otherwise. I was a little scared of all the fab work involved. Totally different brake setup, ect. I had a freshly rebuilt 5.0HO bottom end with rods Kieth black 11:1 pistons, lunati cam with mechanical roller lifters, shorty headers, Mallory dizzy front sump ect. Picked it up on cl with everything for cheap. Was gonna throw some eBay aluminum head on it and call it a day. Would have been a monster. :(


I guess I stayed BMW but I could have gotten a lot more power from the ford for less money. I basically built the m30 the same way the 5.0 was built.

[totheredline]

Im sure the bolt holes will line up fine. Buttttt, The manifold is for a spreadbore carb. Like a Quadra jet or the solex (which is just a licensed euro clone of a q-jet) that came on the car. The eddy I got is a squarebore so I got a "adapter" that basically acts as a transition between the two. So I guess its more of a carb spacer they just call it an adapter.

[jalopi]

you 100% sure you need that adapter? the edelbrock carbs are drilled for two different kinds of mounting bolt patterns (and they're basically webers [you'll even see the weber emblem on it, lol], so there's a good chance it'll fit on your manifold)

btw the paper carb gasket edelbrock includes in the box is kind of poop. use some fuel-resistant RTV on both sides of the gasket and you'll be gold

let us know how it runs after the install!

[totheredline]

Just dropped like $500 on a carb, that fpr, spreadbore adapter a calibration kit and some various hardware. I went with the 500cfm eddy performer with electric choke. After watching a lot of reviews, how to videos, and browsing various forums I think I'll be pretty satisfied with it. Should be stupid simple to get my car on the road now.

[jalopi]

probably not, they're not perfect but it'll work well enough for what you want it to do. there's a few things i suggest you do when embarking on this carb journey:

* get the electronic choke version. trust me, it's worth the extra coin

* also get their calibration kit, part ## 1486. you will 100% need it, as-is your car will probably run pig rich with that carb

* buy this fuel pressure regulator. you will be tempted by other cheaper, non-return style regulators on summit. do not buy these. they were intended for cars with low pressure carb-style fuel pumps. the amount of pressure coming from your high pressure pump will blow the diaphragm in the regulator prematurely and without warning

things to keep in mind:

* if you're gonna spin out, push the clutch pedal and r3v the engine just before the car comes to a complete stop. this will keep the engine from flooding and stalling

* plan trips ahead of time, your car will run like dogshit for the first few minutes unless it's 90* out

* you probably won't have any super bad issues with autoX as long as you're not rocking wide ass sticky icky tires

that's all i can think of for now

[totheredline]

I actual have an AEM uego but I've never used it. I'll probably get a good vacuum gauge to mount in my gauge pod as well. I'm really having a hard time finding a carb. Edlebrock are the only company I can find that makes brand new 500cfm 4bbl's. And its cheap. Would I be seriously disappointed with the eddy?

[jalopi]

jeez, why did i think this thing was stock, lol

500 sounds pretty reasonable to me as well, should keep your lower RPMs from being shitty

you're not gonna be super displeased with the carb, but please do yourself a favor and get yourself a wideband, it will make your life soooooo much easier when tuning it

also try to aim for an AFR of about 12-13. i know that sounds really rich, but trust me you don't want that shit running too lean through turns with that much compression

[totheredline]

just keep in mind alot of people tend to run way too much carb too ;)

I used this CFM calculator and it said 491 (round up to 500cfm) which seems like a more reasonable number for a 7200rpm m30. I can always play with the jets too The motor is pretty heavily modified. Extensive porting, 10.4ish:1 comp, polish, 1mm oversized valves, 292 cam with 11.3mm peak lift and an LSA of 108. H-beams, chromoly retainers, double valve springs, HD rockers.... Yeah. Should be a beast of an M30. I really wish I could afford a good standalone but time is against me and Im a 19 year old kid who doesn't make a whole lot of money. I know that Im not going to be tapping into the motors full potential with the carb setup.

On a positive note itll probably sound amazing and get lots of people to look at car meets..

[jalopi]

just keep in mind alot of people tend to run way too much carb too ;)

i'd think 550-600cfm would be way too much on a stock m30, shit i was rocking a 600 on my 302 and it had aluminum heads and a cam. just remember that a bigger cone + a smaller vacuum pump = reduced air velocity which in turn = shittier fuel atomization

also, i didn't have the insane issues that so many other people complained about with carb'd drifting - as long as you kept your foot in it the car wouldn't stall or anything (god help you if you lifted though). the only issue i had was that during drifts my wideband would be all over the place, ranging from 9:1 ~ 17:1. still ran fine though

if you do go with the holley do yourself a favor and get wedged floats for it, i hear those do wonders for fuel slosh issues

[totheredline]

sounds like you want something that you don't have to fuck with all the time - if that's the case and you're dead set on doing a carb, don't get a holley.

holleys are super nice in terms of adjustability and are typically better than edelbrocks when it comes to fuel slosh, but everyone i've known who has a holley is constantly messing with it. then again, the smallest carb edelbrock still makes (or has made, to my knowledge) is a 500cfm, which might be too big for your application

Yeah I think I read somewhere in your build thread that you were experiencing carb troubles when you were drifting. According to the E9 and E3 guys, I need 550-600 cfm. A lot of them run twin Weber 38/38 wich are about 375 cfm each. I really built the car for autocross, back road blasting and street fighting so I need something with mechanical secondaries that can cope with the twisties.


Heres a pic of the manifold

[totheredline]

most of those have nothing to do with the engine. they will work without doing anything.

the only ones you'll need are the coolant sensor and a tach output. should be able to connect the tach output to coil -. yes, you can wire them through C101.

you could do a manual switch. that might be better than having it on all the time with the ignition on. but you will want to switch it through a relay, you don't want the pump current going through a switch in the cabin.

^would run a relay and fuse for sure. Alsmost burt my 318is down when I wired the fuel cutoff switch directly to power instead of control.

So hold on, the tach imput goes through the C101? Ive heard that theres a connector under the Dash for tach imput as well. For the stock tach of course. May be easier just to pull the stock tach out of the cluster and get an aftermarket one to fit in the same spot.

[jalopi]

sounds like you want something that you don't have to fuck with all the time - if that's the case and you're dead set on doing a carb, don't get a holley.

holleys are super nice in terms of adjustability and are typically better than edelbrocks when it comes to fuel slosh, but everyone i've known who has a holley is constantly messing with it. then again, the smallest carb edelbrock still makes (or has made, to my knowledge) is a 500cfm, which might be too big for your application

[nando]

most of those have nothing to do with the engine. they will work without doing anything.

the only ones you'll need are the coolant sensor and a tach output. should be able to connect the tach output to coil -. yes, you can wire them through C101.

you could do a manual switch. that might be better than having it on all the time with the ignition on. but you will want to switch it through a relay, you don't want the pump current going through a switch in the cabin.