Exhaust Manifold Removal

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  • Swendog
    Grease Monkey
    • Jan 2013
    • 375

    #1

    Exhaust Manifold Removal

    OK...so I've read a bunch of the threads here and on other forums and everyone is in agreement: this job SUX! I PB blasted everything. Let it soak overnight and did it multiple times today. Hit it with the MAPP torch. So far, I have all but one on the manifold-to-head studs/nuts out. The last one (middle bottom) is rounded and I can't get a grip on it.

    As for the manifold to downpipe. Complete failure. I cut and beat the pi$$ out of one of the nuts/studs and it's still stuck. I have an impact wrench, sockets, extensions, swivels, you name it. But I cannot grab ANY of the nuts with any leverage. I am taking a break now before I really LOSE IT.

    The car is up on ramps and maybe that's the problem. But even if it were higher, there is no remotely straight shot at any of the nuts. Am I completely RETARDED? Progress on my car has been great so far (timing belt, valve adjustment, cooling system and other bits). I consider myself to be pretty mechanically inclined, but I'm really at odds with this PROJECT. Is there something I should have removed below to get better access? HELLLLPPPPP!

    Swen
  • 101
    Mod Crazy
    • Jul 2011
    • 764

    #2
    You're doing it right. It isn't fun and you're probably had a previous owner NOT use the proper copper plated nuts last time it was assembled.

    I usually start the PB Blaster treatment a week in advance.

    For the downpipe nuts, I was able to make a combination of certain sockets, extensions and a universal work to get access to those from underneath the car on ramps. I used a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe to get enough leverage to break them them loose.

    For the rounded off nut on the exhaust manifold stud - yup - I had two of those as well, also on the bottom of the manifold like yours. Ultimately, I had to use a dremel with a carbide cutter and carefully cut the nuts off. Naturally, this damages the stud in the head so I had to replace those as well. They were also nearly impossible to get out.

    When you go back with everything, I recommend chasing all the threads, changing those studs that may have gotten focked up during removal, and using the copper plated nuts and a touch of anti-sieze. That was at least the next owner stands a fighting chance.

    I can't tell you how many days I added to the job because I had to walk away and try another day.

    Good luck!
    101

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