glowing red manifold

[shiboujin]

O.P: Where you running it at 13.5afr?
You should of been running it at 13.5afr.

Funny guy! You must be from bimmer forums.

The glowing manifold might actually have been from running around 13.5 AFR. Good thing it didn't blow.

The final tune was done at about 11.5 range for safety. Note: I did NOT tune it.

[BTP325ic]

i remember when a buddy's SR was burning up after we went drifting his turbo manifold was bright orange and then we told him to turn his car off and let it cool down,that looks crazy.

[LowR3V'in]

O.P: Where you running it at 13.5afr?
You should of been running it at 13.5afr.

[maximumangle]

That's hot.

lmfao. when i was in school we had an eclipse gs-t that got the turbo so hot on the dyno that it melted the turbo flange studs! i believe the culprit was that somebody swapped out a larger n2o jet without switching to the proper fuel jet. dude did it again later and grenaded his engine. lol

[SamE30e]

Okay, there's your first mistake.

O2 sensors should ALWAYS be grounded at the ECU - including the heater circuit.

Try that and see if your signal noise clears up any. :)

QFT. People always make this mistake and think that they are right, and that it doesn't make that much of a difference.

[evil_twin]

You might be running a bit rich with a misfire. My maxima did that when it was missing bad. I think you're dumping too much fuel.

Turns out a plug I had in the intake came out. caused all my problems. Drove it around the block today. Didn't run well but I can fix that. At least the car starts on a dime and idles smoothly now. W00t!

Hey, maybe you should listen to me :)

[SickE30]

Turns out a plug I had in the intake came out. caused all my problems. Drove it around the block today. Didn't run well but I can fix that. At least the car starts on a dime and idles smoothly now. W00t!

Good stuff man.

[shiboujin]

I regret even starting this thread.

[SickE30]

If you were willing to pay a shop to finish it, I would think you'd be willing to pay $600 for the 95% plug and play MS the guy on here is selling. That would be my "Step 1". I mean think about it, you can re-coupe some of those funds by selling your original MS as well, won't be a bad hit on the wallet.

[shiboujin]

Turns out a plug I had in the intake came out. caused all my problems. Drove it around the block today. Didn't run well but I can fix that. At least the car starts on a dime and idles smoothly now. W00t!

[Tchao]

Take it to a shop that actually knows what they are doing. Then you can look at your maps and see why you suck at tuning ;)

Seriously though, I think you are messing with too many stuff to ever get that thing right. Baby steps my friend....

[nando]

the reason you ground at the ECU is due to ground offsets.. the further away the grounds are, the higher the offset and the less accurate your sensor is. An inaccurate sensor is pretty well useless (as you know from your power issue).

I also like to think of it like this - if BMW (and basically every other OEM) did it that way and it worked for 20 years, why change it. :)

[shiboujin]

Okay, there's your first mistake.

O2 sensors should ALWAYS be grounded at the ECU - including the heater circuit.

Try that and see if your signal noise clears up any. :)

also, if you were reading dead lean and now the car won't start, you were probably flooding the engine with way too much fuel. that also fits with super high EGTs under no loads..

I ground both the ECU, all sensors, and the O2 sensor all to the same block. It's worked for me in the past. The LC1 manual says you should actually ground the O2 sensor about an inch closer to the grounding point than your ECU but this has worked fine for me.

I actually fixed the O2 noise after rewiring the coils since the coils and the O2 were getting power from the same signal. The O2 sensor basically wasn't always getting the same voltage since the coil packs ground and suck power at irregular intervals.

I probably was flooding the engine. I should back off on it. I need to clean them spark plugs. Thanks nando. Makes sense I should have clarified a few things too. My bad.

[nando]

I've wired 4 MS cars and tuned about 3 but my own builds are always a tad beyond my ability.

The O2 is grounded to a terminal with all my other major grounds using a 0 gauge audio quality cable to the block. Except the O2 reads full lean now but I can't even get the car started to see anymore.

Okay, there's your first mistake.

O2 sensors should ALWAYS be grounded at the ECU - including the heater circuit.

Try that and see if your signal noise clears up any. :)

also, if you were reading dead lean and now the car won't start, you were probably flooding the engine with way too much fuel. that also fits with super high EGTs under no loads..

[shiboujin]

I've wired 4 MS cars and tuned about 3 but my own builds are always a tad beyond my ability.

The O2 is grounded to a terminal with all my other major grounds using a 0 gauge audio quality cable to the block. Except the O2 reads full lean now but I can't even get the car started to see anymore.