Update on Stock Header Turbo and single Row timing Chain Conversion
I apologize for the lack of updates here. The following is from my post on the M42 Club. I didn't realize there was much interest here on the 4 cyl turbos.
I have single row chain conversions for sale, so don't confuse the 'kit' for an entire turbo conversion kit.
The conversion ran sucessfully on Watkins Glen during the Trackmasters event held this past weekend. My son drove the entire event.
I am much more confident in the single row chain concept as the car was driven as hard as possible for a total of 4 hours of track time. Stock rev limit was hit approximately 8 times. Engine revs very quickly!
Background: This is the same engine that has the 'Stock Header Turbo Build' noted in this same section. The engine has run for a year+ prior to the conversion @ 5-6 psi with a Saab te05-12b and injectors from a '92 900 turbo.
Other Mods: Flywheel is '87 325is machined to 16lbs. Deleted PS, A/C, fan & fan clutch w/ electric fan, COP conversion (w/o mounting plate)
All else is stock; no chip, rrfpr or any piggyback whatsoever; stock fuel pressure.
Monitoring AFR w/ NGK AFX Powerdex and wideband o2 sensor mounted before turbo inlet. AFR's WOT are approx 12.5. Noted some knock by ear under boost at lower RPM, high load. The addition of a VDO oil pressure gauge plumbed w/ copper tubing surprisingly acted like a stethoscope mounted in location of dash computer. It amplified all valve train noise and any hint of knocking. All traces of knock dissapeared when octane was increased to approx 96; 1/2 93+ 1/2 100.
I was not aware of any other single row conversions, it simply made sense.
I believe I arrive at a different (and lighter) solution than others the way the timing pin and cam sensor mounting is dealt with.
I am still trying to find time to put prices together for all the various stages/ parts of a potential kit. If everyone posts their wants and needs, I will then have some basis for pricing and time frame.
To answer some things not addressed:
We ran all last summer w/ NO cooling fan whatsoever; using only the dissipation of the heater core/fan AND being VERY careful to shut it down when idling for any length of time. In 80 degrees F and shade, all you needed was the heater on, it could then idle all day long.
Spooln: This is the most efficient and least expensive you will find anywhere. I will never use a log style manifold due to reversion and poor overall flow. A huge benefit is that we have clearance to remove the cam cover easily; many log type set-ups do not allow for clearance, you have to remove the turbo. Our turbo also sits lower and to the left for lower CG; it also removes all the weight from the cyl head. More accurately, we 'rotated' the engine to provide clearance w/ shorter mount on LH side, taller on RH. The driveline is completely stock and unaffected.
Einstein: Now that it is track proven w/o intercooler and no problems, I have more confidence in raising boost and adding one. The goal was to do this as cheaply and easily as possible for those who want to turbo eliminating more piping/cost and complexity. My Lotus Esprit Turbo runs happily w/o intercooling @ 8 psi. I doubt Colin Chapman had it wrong!
Jaxx and others: If you read 'Maximum Boost' amongst other publications and study some of the most prominent and fastest turbocharged cars in the world, you will not find a true 'log' style anywhere in those applications. They are grossly inefficient.
Regards, Lee
Stock Header Turbo Build
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remote mount turbo systems have proven that heat in the exhaust does not spool the turbo. just google squires turbo systems. if the turbo is sized properly for the amount of exhaust flow it is getting, it doesn't matter where you put it. there are pros and cons for both types of turbo systems.Leave a comment:
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Why not mount the turbo closer to the manifold?
And you moved the engine towards the driver side? What about the rest of the drive line?
Definitely cool and innovativeLeave a comment:
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I think this experiment is going to inspire a multitude of typical e30 m42 guys. We've seen these pics over at m42club and it's by far the most practical and functional setup to have been presented by anyone anywhere. I think the integration of the SAAB APC setup could make it even better.Leave a comment:
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Hmmm. Interesting.
I bet it makes that radiator hot as fuck.
At least it was cheap.Leave a comment:
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:roll: I wasn't trying to offend you, but heat is energy. If you want your exhaust gasses to cool, that's fine, but don't expect it to be better than if you were to shorten the manifold. That was my point. If you were to say economic I think I would have understood your goal a bit better. and you could at wrap it if you didn't care too much about longevity.I would like to point out to Jaxx, that if he believes that this set-up is inefficient, that Porsche must have screwed up when they designed the 944 turbo. their turbo feed pipes are much longer. This holds true for many very sucessful factory/independently built street and track cars. One must also consider some of the remote turbo systems as well. Although I don't like them, they do work well.Leave a comment:
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The build is well under $1000.00. I believe for us it was approx $700.00, but we had a 92 saab turbo that we took the turbo and injectors from. The price does include an entire 2.5 in diam. stainless exhaust; no cat and muffler is not stainless.
The engine is completely stock. I have to emphasize that using the saab 22.4lb injectors was a VERY important part of the tuning process, otherwise you would have to purchase a rather expensive begi rrfpr or equivalent. When time permits an AFR will be fitted to ensure proper ratio.
I would like to point out to Jaxx, that if he believes that this set-up is inefficient, that Porsche must have screwed up when they designed the 944 turbo. their turbo feed pipes are much longer. This holds true for many very sucessful factory/independently built street and track cars. One must also consider some of the remote turbo systems as well. Although I don't like them, they do work well.Last edited by Esprit; 05-11-2010, 03:13 AM.Leave a comment:
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Looks like a cheap build. Have you done anything internal i.e. rods, pistons?Leave a comment:
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Chris-we moved the engine towards the drivers side with different engine mounts and it was just enough room to clear. after running the car for about two months now, the header has dented the inner guard enough so that it doesnt hit.Leave a comment:
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The efficiency comes from the equal length pipes of the stock header, as opposed to a "log" style manifold. The flow is far more efficient, even if there are heat losses. The idea was to be inexpensive also, so we didnt have to buy a manifold or fabricate one.Leave a comment:
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