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"On a side note, I don't see why o-ringing would be needed or wanted for any level of power. That's old school junk from the pre-MLS days. We now make 2000+ hp with MLS gaskets and no o-rings. As long as the block is stiff and the fasteners are good, you will crush all the pistons before blowing the gasket. Likewise, if the block or fasteners aren't up to snuff, then o-ring or not you'll be having problems."
people say to run a stock HG, that way if something were to happen and pressure were to great then the HG blows instead of F'ing the rest of the engine.
*Fixed...Are you planning on running a stockgasket and no other modifications?
I was originally thinking to run a o-ringed head, stock gasket, welded water jackets and arp headbolts, but I think that might be a little overkill for 10-15psi lol
i plan to do heavy duty valve springs, heavy duty rockers some other beefed up internals.
arp head studs
welded water jackets
and MLS head gasket(just so i can run a lil higher psi when i need to kill someone)
gonna DD the car on 7psi. and hoping to afford an electronic boost controller, OR i can run lines to have a manual controller that i will mount somewhere on center console, allowing me to amp it up to 15-22psi.
i plan to do heavy duty valve springs, heavy duty rockers some other beefed up internals.
arp head studs
welded water jackets
and MLS head gasket(just so i can run a lil higher psi when i need to kill someone)
gonna DD the car on 7psi. and hoping to afford an electronic boost controller, OR i can run lines to have a manual controller that i will mount somewhere on center console, allowing me to amp it up to 15-22psi.
If you ran a manual boost controller and lets say you increased it momentarily for some extra kick would your standalone reconfigure it self to handle the extra psi or would it stick to the preset tune?
sorry if it sounds weird/stupid it's hard to turn my thoughts into sentences
If you ran a manual boost controller and lets say you increased it momentarily for some extra kick would your standalone reconfigure it self to handle the extra psi or would it stick to the preset tune?
sorry if it sounds weird/stupid it's hard to turn my thoughts into sentences
i get what you are saying. it didn't occur to me that MS uses maps and blah blah blah. since i dont understand MS yet,(gonna learn it when i buy one for my turbo build, tune my car NA before i do FI).
but i just did some research, because i want the capabillity to turn it up when i'd want.
read that. couple options.
easiest is create a map for 20something psi, but run a manual boost controller at 10-15psi.
other option seems to have a few different maps.
one for low boost, say 7lbs, another for mid 12lbs, a little more 16lbs, another at 20, and the insane one set to 25lbs.
then you can switch it up how you like, but you would be using your MS unit as your boost controllor, they make kits for this, like an extra 30bucks.
i think i'd rather do a combo of the two. run two maps. one set for 12lbs, and run 7 all day.
another set to 25lbs and run 15 and up on it.
you tune the car for the max you want to run. at every map/rpm you will have a different value for fuel and spark. so basically, its one map for 25psi, and it has tuned increments in say every 2psi, and it "averages" out for inbetween based on rpms. its hard to explain, but maybe if you see a table it will help:
this table is tuned to 250kpa (or about 22psi). on the left is the pressure and bottom is rpm. depending on where the engine is running, it gets fueled by the values in the middle. so even if you never hit that 22psi, you can drive this car everyday and never hit boost and it will not run overly rich.... assuming its tuned properly.
oh btw, iam in the middle of putting my car back together. just got the block oinged with oem gasket and arp studs. fyi its the same setup boris is running on his turbo e30 and he is around 1000hp. build thread:
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