CAR STOPS REVVING AT 2,500 E30 325i turbo HEEEEEELLLLLPPPPP!!!!!

[Dublbass_monster]

I have not disconnected my O2 sensor yet do I need to do that to be able to get my car to rev up, I have factory ECU in right now, but i have a Racing Pros chip specifically for turbo e30 but have been swapping it back n forth to be sure that isnt my problem. The issue is here....I am in question if my fuel rail is ruined...I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, which I drilled and tapped into my fuel rail, using a plumbing fitting and some fuel hose. I dont know what fuel pressure I need to run at, and I keep hearing about Rising Rate fprs...Besides that, while tapping the rail i punctured the baffle that's inside the fuel rail itself. Wondering if thats my problem, other than that I am running 24#/hr injectors from a 5.0 mustang. maybe yall can help as I can NOT get my car to rev past 2,500, its like the ignition or fuel just cuts out and stops, I havent adjusted my AFM or anything(i have afm behind my air filter on the turbo intake pipe), I want to get this car back on the road and start enjoying all of this hard work I've put into it. Any input is GREATLY APPRECIATED! Thanks ~Winston~

[Dublbass_monster]

oh also the car starts right up with no throttle input and idles around 1,100-1,200 rpm. at 20-40lbs of fuel pressure with no change in operation. I am highly confused as to why my car wont rev past 2,500 rpm ive not found any documentation on this and it has me VERY WORRIED. once again thanks for the time. ~Winston~

[Dublbass_monster]

and i say 20-40 lbs reffering that i can adjust it within that range with no change in how the engine runs

[ROLLingKING]

i am not a mechanic but these are my thoughts...
are u seeing fuel leaking from where the FPR fitting meets the fuel rail..why didnt you just use a hose and t-fittings or something. why drill into the fuel rail?lol ive never seen that even done
And for a turbo dont you need to adjust the AFM!?
also for a turbo dont you need a wideband O2 sensor. the single band O2 sensor only monitors so much. I think the computer needs more info from the O2 to keep the power coming. and what are 24#/hr fuel injectors. dont they measure in lbs(pounds)

your injectors may be to small and your not getting enough fuel to feed the thirsty turbo at higher RPM's. Also you have a high idle. i think u have a lot to work out first. what size fuel pump are u running. the one by your fuel filter. im looking at a walbro 255 pump to ensure the motor gets enough fuel

let us know more about your set up. trouble shooting involves a lot of info and looking at all the possibilities. get back to us and GL

[Jafxod]

Ill sell you my rrfpr for 50 bucks

[Dublbass_monster]

No leaks, factory fuel pump, (I was unaware of the neccesity to upgrade), drilled and tapped to replace factory Bosch fpr to accomodate higher psi of felivery to the fuel rail with LESS chance of leaks, the rail can hold 65 lbs no problem we conducted a test. Next thing, I don't have a wideband, however, my engine will start and run gloriosly with the O2 sensor still connected, SHOULD I DISCONNECT IT??? injector are from an american Ford Mustang Cobra 5.0 they are 24lb. injectors I chose 24 because i felt i didnt want to buy two sets of injector if i was displeased with the 19#'s...It does seem like fuel delivery, I'm just confused as to how to get it to redline, I need to test everything hardcore before i put this thing on dyno and much less back on the street. Thanks for hittin me up. ~Winston~

[jaywood]

24# is 24 lb. The # is a "pound" key.


How did the car run before you put all this work into it? At 2500 rpm it won't be an issue as far as how much fuel you're getting in relation to how much boost you're pushing. Your fuel pump shouldn't be failing either (how was it performing before installing turbo?)


At idle you should be at ~47 fuel pressure. Your adjustable FPR isn't recommended for turbos. You should look into an rrfpr, they're more ideal for boost.


What spark plugs are you using? What's the gap?

[Vtec?lol]

Your afm doesn't like all the extra air flow from the turbo.
Go under the hood and remove the black cover of the afm and try opening and closing the flap by hand. It should do so freely with no binding. Now start the car and fidle with it while simultaneously moving the throttle trying to get it to rev. Find it's sweet spots, then adjust accordingly. THEN TAKE IT TO A DYNO and get it tuned.

But first you need a wideband and a piggy back. Oh, and a RRFPR

[LowR3V'in]

Let's see some pictures.

Replace the fuel rail
Get a wideband o2. The Lc1 is very cheap.
Find a begi raising rate.

More info on your setup.

What psi are you trying to run?
Lets see some pictures. There was this sad guy a while ago who
posted a picture of his junked out turbo setup probably blown up by now. He
didn't want any advice. :/

We'll get you going in the right direction.
Don't try rev it out anymore.

[EthirtyIS]

You said you have your afm mounted in front of the turbo? If so your afm is maxing out, and that's why you can't rev pas 2500, mount your afm in its stock location the try just reving nice and easy. After you do that, tell us your set up.
What turbo and manifold?
Inter cooler? Large or small?
Piggy back? Or just the turbo chip you installed?
My suggestion on fuel, get 30# a stock fuel rail with a stock regulator, and put a begi rrfpr in line, then a walbro 255 or equlivent in the tank.
Let us know what happens

[Dublbass_monster]

[Dublbass_monster]

[Dublbass_monster]

[Dublbass_monster]

[Dublbass_monster]