Originally posted by Alexis Jung
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why do i keep blowing headgaskets??!
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Originally posted by Alexis Jung View PostReally? I like to be anywhere in the 11s during boost.
High boost I'd get into 11s, but probably not far past that. You start getting into the low 11s and high 10s, your tune might be a bandaid. (which is okay in some circumstances)
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Ive just been road tunning it, i had it that under boost it would be high 12s and one 13.0 every once in awhile but im going to add more fuel and get it to stay ay 12.3 when i get it back on the road..
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Start with the O-ringing and put ARPs then you can raise the boost if your tuning skills are good..
I don't see other reason of keep blowing the headgaskets except that your block isn't o-ringed and you run 1 bar of boost on it!
Stock m20 can handle up to ~25 psi with oringed block, arps and alot of work on TUNING
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Coolant looks and smells fine, its leaking directly into the cylinder. I think i could hear detonation last time i drove it with my hotter plugs and i put in the colder ones so it sounded lile it had gone away but its hard to tell with an open wg dump and loud exhaust and everything else
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I used to torque my metric blues to about 75-80ft lbs. Do not reuse them because they will break off in the block (no fun )
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How does your coolant look and smell? In my experience, detonation will lift the head and pressurize the cooling system as a first sign of failure, before the gasket actually fails. In that instance, the HG is actually pretty resilient, but bear in mind that you're definitely doing damage, and you do NOT want to overheat it.
I'm a believer that a proper setup and tune will be fine with just ARP studs. O-ringing is nice, but to do it properly you need to do the block, and to do the block you need to dismantle it...and even then, it's still a band-aid, and not a cure from the detonation you're likely suffering.
Basics first; pull back your timing. I recommend det cans, they seemed to help my setup.
I'll also say that I would always have the head skimmed, even if just barely, if I was going to the trouble of pulling it off.
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gotchya. well im pretty sure i my block isn't oringed, so the head gasket is getting pushed out more than likely but im not positive so when i tear down the motor i will update on progress.
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wait, nando explain to me or find a picture of the oringing. because im thinking piston rings and i have no idea what your trying to explain. that might be my problem
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I feel like you are a little lean if you're at 15psi and 13s. I'd like to be low 12s to mid 12s under boost.
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The first min. of this video shows how to use a feeler gauge to check for a warped cylinder head using a straight edge and a feeler gauge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwn8Epoezog
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o-ringing has nothing to do with the pistons or cylinder walls. you would notice it - it's usually a stainless steel wire that goes in a groove cut around the tops of all the cylinders, sticking up about .5mm, that bites into the gasket to prevent it from shifting around.
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temp is at the same as it always has so i believe it would be correct, id check but its hydro locked untill i get a chance today
im thinking the PO had the engine oringed because of the condition of the pistons/cylinder walls are flawless
arp's arent an option at the moment due to money shortages
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