turbo supplies

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  • FLG
    replied
    You really needed to do this homework prior..

    But you can still do things right since nothing is blown up yet lol

    You should o ring the block but you don't need to. A proper tune with arp bolts and even a stock head gasket will work... But there's a huge Emphasis on having the right tune.

    Your going to need an exhaust.... 3" perefebly.

    Your going to need to do something for management, look at Megasquirts stuff. Make some phone calls go on e30tech and look at some builds and diy's

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • Pl3wA
    replied
    guys, the thing is... I'm 6 months into this build... :(

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  • FLG
    replied
    You won't make crap without the proper equipment and even with the right stuff without a proper tune you'll be replacing an engine.

    Please do your homework before you proceed.

    Driving it requires the right components and at least a base tune to get to a person that can properly tune it. Expect to spend nearly 1k on dyno/tuning

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • jaywood
    replied
    You won't make 300 hp without a tune. Don't start the build until you get everything you need and have a decent understanding of what every part of the turbo system does. More then "a standalone engine management consists of what? is it like a program or like a metal box with some wires in it that does magical things?..."

    E30tech has a wealth of knowledge. e30tech.com. Check it out.

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  • Pl3wA
    replied
    do you think it would blow up without a tune at 300 at the flywheel? i know its a stupid question. i just want to drive it before i get all the necessary components

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  • kamotors
    replied
    Originally posted by Pl3wA
    a standalone engine management consists of what? is it like a program or like a metal box with some wires in it that does magical things?...
    ....:???:

    Leave a comment:


  • jaywood
    replied
    Originally posted by Pl3wA
    i'll start without oringing and just the arp studs. stock fuel pump. ill keep it at a low boost. would i need a different tune every time I increase the boost little by little. or can i just cheapo my way through it without a proper tune for the beginning?

    or can I get a solid tune, but keep the boost low. although then it would run rich...
    If you're going to do it once, do it right the first time. No reason to not oring if you're already pulling the head for a new headgasket. Lots of guys have had their heads oringed and had no trouble.

    If you raise the boost you will need a new tune if you want the motor to last/make the most power.

    If you get a solid tune for low boost it won't run rich.

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  • Pl3wA
    replied
    i'll start without oringing and just the arp studs. stock fuel pump. ill keep it at a low boost. would i need a different tune every time I increase the boost little by little. or can i just cheapo my way through it without a proper tune for the beginning?

    or can I get a solid tune, but keep the boost low. although then it would run rich...

    Leave a comment:


  • e30leigh
    replied
    my biggest worry is your chasing what is effectively a shit load of power and you have no idea about any of it.

    have you ever been behind a wheel of a car with that kind of get up and go? for more then 2 seconds of a friends car.... i mean have you OWNED a car with this kind of power? im guessing not.

    my advice to you is keep your build alive. but start you aim lower. go for 250hp and build from there. get used to the car. the power. how it drives. then start scaring your friends. lol

    Leave a comment:


  • FLG
    replied
    No offense but use the search button and go on e30 tech and do some reading...they have some good turbo threads. And judging by some of your answers you really need to do a lot more homework.

    You can't just bolt a turbo and expect it to make 400hp....expect to lay out another few thousand for a stand alone, tune, exhaust, head gasket, o ring, arp studs, wideband, and a boost controller... among a few things

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • Pl3wA
    replied
    a standalone engine management consists of what? is it like a program or like a metal box with some wires in it that does magical things?

    what if i just leave the down pipe as the only piece of exhaust?

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  • sayed ali
    replied
    ^

    For your goals you'll need a standalone engine management system, added to your stock ecu and then TUNING is a very important key!

    walbro 255 fuel pump is fine

    off course there are bigger (not better) injectors than 500cc, each size is capable for specific hp, but it depends on so many other things..

    2" exhaust?! It's too small for turbo applications and for 400hp!

    Before doing anything, READ everywhere to improve your knowledge and to know what are you doing

    Leave a comment:


  • Pl3wA
    replied
    doing something with the ecu... what does that mean? buying a different one? or does it just mean reprogramming it or something

    ok, i guess i'll buy a walbro 255 fuel pump.

    fuck the catch can? ok, ill turn it into a flower vase or something

    i will also o-ring the block. I guess most any shop can do it right?

    500cc injectors at least? does that mean there are better?

    I have a turbonetics T3/T4 T04E .63AR

    38mm wastegate, i believe i can adjust it from 7psi to 15. exhaust size... hmm... it looks like just a 2" diameter. not stock though. no resonators and i'm going to cut out the cat

    Leave a comment:


  • sayed ali
    replied
    Must do something with the ecu! For 400hp >> Standalone (Megasquirt,...) or at least Apexi S-AFC

    Must upgrade the fuel pump, it'll definitely wont handle the 400hp

    Forget about the fucking oil catch can ..

    O-ring the block with stock hg & ARPs

    500cc injectors at least

    What turbo do you have? What wastegate? What exhaust size?

    Leave a comment:


  • Pl3wA
    replied
    i have no idea what it does or where the oil catch can goes,

    the ecu is stock, i'll have to check that out. the idle is probably because of random vacuum lines disconnected and o2 sensor being disconnected

    i already have some sort of stage 2 aluminum clutch/lightweight flywheel.

    i have some sort of new exhaust the PO put on it. I'm thinking about removing the cat tho. I already have arp head studs. forgot to mention.

    is it difficult to o-ring the block? i heard it works well but is it really worth it? I guess you get to keep the higher compression instead of dropping it with the .140.

    I want to use the oil pressure wire for my oil pressure gauge is all. wondering if it's accurate.

    oil feed/drain is good. its for an m50. my B. i forgot all about the important things

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