New and need some help with m20 turbo

[BayE30]

Alright, now that im going megasquirt im redoing my intake side and im wondering what bov would be good for running 10-15 psi. Ive heard alot of good things for synapse but they are mostly used on m5x/s5x engines so im not sure if they work good for m20s as well. The one thats on my car now is just some ebay junk that i rather not use since im redoing the setup anyway.

[einstein57]

I use an ebay junk greddy knock off. Wynton sells some nice ones. Although all you really need is a bosch bypass from a Saab or Porsche turbo.

[BayE30]

Im just looking for a somewhat cheap bov but has good reliability and functionality. I believe the one on the car is going bad or is bad so im just going to get a new one. Also with megasquirt, can i get rid of the begi adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

[LowR3V'in]

Go back to an m20 afr and you need to tighten the wheel under the cover to get the afr
right at idle. 24# injectors works good and I think is about max size.
Those setups run good and are super simple at only 10psi.
tcd chip only retards timing.

Megasquirt will let you have full control of your engine the begi is not needed.

[BayE30]

ok good to know but im not going to change injectors and the afm because i just bought these 36# injectors and i think itl just be easier for me to do megasquirt and be able to control pretty much everything. I need it to be pretty reliable as it'll be my daily driver.

[BayE30]

Just to update, I got a megasquirt from whodwho and i got the car running yesterday. I drove it around using autotune just to smooth everything out until i can get it tuned professionally.

Now while i was driving it i heard a noise in the rear that sounded like grinding and i figured since the car had only been driven once or twice in a year it could be the diff is low on fluid. Went out to the car this morning and started right up at 1k rpm like i set it to on my tune. I changed the fluid and then went inside.

I come back out an hr later start the car and its idling at 500rpm, really lumpy and then stalls but i am able to keep it from stalling if i keep on the gas and rev it. A couple stalls later doing the same thing, i start it again and the rpm is back at 1k and acting like it did all yesterday.

I drive 15 mins to work and the car runs great the whole way. I let it sit for 3 hrs then moved it to a side lot to avoid a ticket. I come back out 2hrs later and start the car.

Now here is the problem. I start the car and it trys idling at 500rpm again and slowly the rpm falls and then it stalls. This time, any amount i press on the gas there is absolutely no feedback from the car and the rpms will not build. I confirmed that my m50 tps was reading at different levels as i pressed on the pedal. While i would press on the gas, basically flooring it to try and get response from the car, my wideband gauge was reading 18-20 afr which is super lean. Now if i let off the gas the rpm would start falling from 500 rpm down to 200 rpm slowly and the afrs would go down to 13 or so but then the car would just stall.

My only idea would be that i might not have enough gas. My gas gauge says it has a quarter left but who knows how accurate it is. My only though is why i might not have enough gas is because i have no throttle response but its just a guess. The fuel pressure to the rail still reads about 40psi.

Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated

[BayE30]

Another thought im having is that i notice that i have a lot of engine grease and what i assume to be power steering fluid caked on the bottom of the engine where the engine ground strap is. Could it be that this is all caused by a weak ground strap and that it is cutting in and out because of all the grit and grime it is caked in?

[BayE30]

Update this morning. Went outside and the car hesitated to start but then fired up. I now have throttle response again and the car is idling higher now. The problem seems to be intermittent. The only thing i havent mention is that before i bought this car, it had an auto to manual swap done so maybe something from that is causing this problem. Any help is appreciated.

[einstein57]

Intermediate temperatures are hard to tune since its only there for a short period of time. Your cold start settings are relatively easy to have work well but when it gets to about a quarter temp is when the issues arrise. You need to check your coolant based timing and Icv maps and play with the settings when its acting boggy

[BayE30]

Been gone for a few days so heres an update: Whodwho (Keith) helped me out and I realized the vac line to the ecu was getting pinched off so the ecu wasnt getting a constant signal and i had the wrong megasquirt setup chosen in tunerstudio. I also realized that the ecu says the afrs never move from 10 but my gauge reads correctly. I was using autotune and it was leaning out my afrs so much that i had no power and it was getting choked out. I stopped autotuning and its running much better but still rich.

[BayE30]

Could a dirty/deteriorating engine ground be causing an intermittent no start and intermittent stalling? Im not sure if it was just because i set the gap of my new spark plugs to .029 in or what. The car started right away when i changed them then it stalled, restarted it fine, let it idle then it stalled again. Did this a couple times then it would just crank and not start. Pulled the plugs and changed the gap to .025 in and it restarted immediately and i had no stalling issues on idle and no cut outs on a 3 block trip i took. Is it safe to assume it was just the plugs and nothing else?

[BayE30]

Ok so heres an update. Being that im impatient about going into boost i did a first and second gear pull off the line. The car pulled pretty damn good thru first and second for being roughly tuned. Well as i shifted into third the car shut off and i had to get it towed home.

I figured it was the spark plugs and changed them with a set i had at home, car started right up without issues. Ive been driving it around for about 2 weeks now with a tune that whodwho had sent me and everything was going well. One hot day i started to notice that every mile i was driving the car was leaning out, i go to turn to go up the hill to my house and the car cuts out and its obvious id wasnt getting enough fuel.

I run up the hill, grab the computer and load up a different map which gives more fuel. Car started right up. I then finally hooked up the stock O2 wiring to my LC1 wideband so the gauge was reading the same as the ecu was seeing it. Ive been driving it around and mildly road tuning it just so i can have something to drive but its at the point where i need someone to dyno tune it so i can drive it how its meant to be driven.

My question is does anyone know of any shops in the SF Bay Area that has experience with megasquirt that will be able to tune my car?