Almost none. I've had my car on the road for ~500 miles and have my valve cover pcv port vented to atmosphere near the brake booster. No oil residue at all. I'm still planning to run an oil-air separator eventually, but it doesn't look like it needs to be a huge priority.
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im wondering if this is true for most and maybe the rings are not in the greatest health. will be curious if anyone else does or does not have this going on.Comment
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m20 2.7i seta bottom end.
~20k miles since build
Super faint vapor during operating temp idle.
Obviously more visible when WOT (dyno).
Compression test your engine if you're worried.
1991 325iS turbo
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compression test came back good at beginning of last season. wouldn't say worried. winter is getting long up hear. more of a curious factor I suppose. ive got all the plumbing to run from my catch can into the pre turbo hoses.
when the temps get out of the single digits ill tackle it.Comment
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Nice. Make sure your catch can is absolute quuuaaaaaaaality in separating oil from vapor if you intend to plumb it back to the front of the turbo (If I'm making sense of what you said).
1991 325iS turbo
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I went with the 10oz unit from ecs. believe its made by turner motorsports. hopefully it will do the job. gotta be better than the ebay one I through in thereComment
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now brings up a question I may very well get flamed for, but im gonna ask anyways. if I said I wanted to replace the piston rings, how terrible of a person would I be to only do the rings (all pistons) and leave cylinders and bearings alone... assuming they don't measure way out?Comment
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Kinda answered my own question when I re read my post. Not honing the cylinders and only doing rings won't gain me much if the cylinders are glazed.
If compression test is good again would a leak down point me in a direction I could follow?Comment
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